Speedometer and Odometer stopped working - 1989 FJ62 (1 Viewer)

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KansasFJ62

1989 FJ62, 1980 FJ40
Joined
Apr 4, 2020
Threads
3
Messages
13
Location
Kansas
All my gauges were working fine on my 1989 FJ62 with 185,000 miles. I drive it 3-4 times a month so not a lot but runs great. When I recently drove it, both the speedometer and odometer were not working. I see threads about it being possibly the cable, the VSS, drive gear for the VSS, or gauge itself, etc. If both the speedo and odometer are not working, can you recommend what I check first please?

Would the VSS affect both gauges or just the speedo?

Since I have likely have to pull out the cluster, should I take the gauge somewhere to test it first?

Thanks!
 
Where the speedo cable connects to the transfer case is a 12 mm bolt holding a tab. Remove that bolt and tab and pull out the cylindrical housing and check the gear with nylon teeth. Often these teeth are simply worn and the speedo and odometer quit. If those teeth are good then the next culprit is your speedo cable and you will need to pull the gauge cluster to disconnect it from the speedo housing. Check to see if the inner cable turns, if not replace the cable (and maybe the speedo gear at the t-case while you have it apart.

At 185000 your gauge should be good.
 
Would the VSS affect both gauges or just the speedo? -

If you mean a Vehicle Speed Sensor, the FJ62 has no such thing, only a gear in the transfer case.

When you disconnect the speedo cable at the xfer case, you can twirl it with your fingers (or maybe gingerly with a power drill) and have an helper watch to see if the speedo needle moves. If so, then it's all good from the cable on up to the dashboard. While you have it apart, you can also pull out the inner cable and lubricate it, and slide it back in.
 
Would the VSS affect both gauges or just the speedo? -

If you mean a Vehicle Speed Sensor, the FJ62 has no such thing, only a gear in the transfer case.

When you disconnect the speedo cable at the xfer case, you can twirl it with your fingers (or maybe gingerly with a power drill) and have an helper watch to see if the speedo needle moves. If so, then it's all good from the cable on up to the dashboard. While you have it apart, you can also pull out the inner cable and lubricate it, and slide it back in.
60 and 62 have a vss. But I second Turing the cable at the tcase and having someone check the needle for movement. Turning it by hand likely won't spin it fast enough to make any noticeable movement at the gage
 
It’ll be your cable if both your odometer (worm gear driven) and speedometer (magnetic cup driven) are not working. Both are activated by the cable.
In addition to checking the gears at the transmission, it’s possible the connector in your dash pulled out. Simple to check, 15 min, since you have to remove the screws holding the valence around your climate controls and the screws holding in the main instrument cluster/radio.
The large white connector is the speedo.
There is not a ton of slack with the wiring harnesses leading to the instrument cluster so you’ll have to unhook those to pull the instrument cluster completely out.
 
....And disconnect the battery before pulling the cluster, just as a good practice.
 
Thanks for all of the feedback on my FJ62 speedo/odo issue, much appreciated. Do you know if the replacement Speedo Gear is the 6x17 (part # B 33403-69016) or 6x18 (part # B33403-69195)? See attached picture. The 6x17 says it supports any year Land Cruiser from 1965-1990, and the 6x18 supports 1988 to 1990. So I'm guessing I should go with the 6x18. But from the pic, the 6x17 has some extra parts shown so not sure.

Speedo gear part.JPG
 
Thanks for all of the feedback on my FJ62 speedo/odo issue, much appreciated. Do you know if the replacement Speedo Gear is the 6x17 (part # B 33403-69016) or 6x18 (part # B33403-69195)? See attached picture. The 6x17 says it supports any year Land Cruiser from 1965-1990, and the 6x18 supports 1988 to 1990. So I'm guessing I should go with the 6x18. But from the pic, the 6x17 has some extra parts shown so not sure.

View attachment 2295357

Pull your gear from the t-case and check it. Number will be stamped on the shaft.
 
Thanks again for the tips. I pulled the Speedo Gear and it is a 6x18 - picture attached. Some questions:

1. The cable looks broken, as this is how it appeared when I pulled it out. So I assume replacing the speedo cable is the next step. It broke about 2 inches in, which looks like where there's a bend in the speedo cable - see picture. Maybe that was a contributor.

2. The gear looks ok as there are no broken teeth, but I defer to an expert on whether to replace it. Since it's out, I suppose that's easy enough to do.

3. When I removed the gear, some oil dripped out of the speedo cable. I need to read up on replacing the cable, but does a new cable require oil/lubricant when I install it?

IMG_E7644.JPG


IMG_E7645.JPG


IMG_7457.JPG
 
Cable is definitely broken you could replace the gear and oring seal while your there and already have it apart
 
Ok....3 hours into this project and no success yet. Try to put in the new speedo cable. Tried starting from the odometer, down towards the gas pedal, thru the grommet, and then back to transfer case. Couldn't fit it all thru the grommet. Then tried the reserve....duck taped a rope to the end of the new cable and threaded the rope from the transfer case thru the grommet back to the odometer, and pull it all thru. That didn't work either, can't get the bloody thing thru the grommet hole. Can you tell me which direction to go with the new cable?
 
All my gauges were working fine on my 1989 FJ62 with 185,000 miles. I drive it 3-4 times a month so not a lot but runs great. When I recently drove it, both the speedometer and odometer were not working. I see threads about it being possibly the cable, the VSS, drive gear for the VSS, or gauge itself, etc. If both the speedo and odometer are not working, can you recommend what I check first please?

Would the VSS affect both gauges or just the speedo?

Since I have likely have to pull out the cluster, should I take the gauge somewhere to test it first?

Thanks!
I have replaced plenty speedometer cables and it's usually the cable going into the transmission that fails. There's no grease on the cable it takes a 10 mm bolt wrench to remove it like most vehicles. Put the cable in the Chuck of a drill and turn it on and see if the speedometer moves
 
I am trying to pull the whole speedo cable from under the truck, thru this hole which is located behind the gear shift. I’m having trouble getting the yellow cap end thru this hole and then up to the speedometer. The yellow cap doesn’t seem to fit, but not sure I’m going from the right direction (ie should I go from the other way and thread the other end thru it downward from the speedo to the transfer case instead of pulling it upward).

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037E8BA1-DB98-4B47-96D9-41C53B60C1CA.jpeg
 
One update - I was able to pull the yellow end of the cable from the bottom of the cruiser, thru the hole behind the gear shift, and up to the speedo. Took some leverage with the back of a hammer but it popped thru. I think the issue was I connected a rope to the yellow part of the speedo cable, using duct tape. And was pulling on the rope, but I must have had too much duct tape around it making it a very tight fit... I'll upload pics once done, but now in the home stretch putting all back together, and hoping all works. First time doing this job...I would not recommend it unless you have an ample supply of beer in case of frustration...
 
The real fun is getting the rubber gasket seated where the cable comes into the cab through the floorboard.
That install should be banned as an enhanced interrogation technique.
Dental picks, lube and dedication.
 
Yeah...I skipped that step, hopefully it’s not a big deal.
 
Yeah...I skipped that step, hopefully it’s not a big deal.
Just put some foam around the cable so it doesn’t let the metal rub through. It’ll also reduce the noise coming up from the transmission tunnel. Then again, these ain’t quiet rigs anyway.
 
Give the process some quality time. It is NOT difficult, but, small hands do help. You go from UNDERNEATH the vehicle up through the hole above the trans housing with the cable. That is the size appropriate direction. Start from behind the transmission to thread the cable towards the front of the car - LEFT side of the trans. Then seeing where your previous cable was fished behind things under the dash is helpful. You'll be going above and below a lot to make sure you have the slack you need ahead of the rubber gasket that seals that hole. I noticed on your transfer case image, with the cable coming from the transfer case, that your cable was kinked (that's where it broke), and was routed almost straight above the tcase - which is not how mine was, there is a bracket to the left of the transmission that the cable attaches to, then it goes ABOVE the transmission (along it, there is another holding spot for it just to the left side, above, the transmission. And by LEFT, if you are sitting in the drivers seat, it is to the LEFT side of the vehicle I'm referring.

It tucks nicely up there, NO kinks, and has a spot to strap it to. For the rubber gasket, its not that hard...yes, it SUCKS to fiddle, and you'll be fiddling for a few minutes, but use some slick silicone grease (light spray coating) or rubber care and once you get one side of the gasket to bite, you just keep working it to get it all in. It IS helpful. Think about critters coming into the cab and building nests..yes a mouse fits nicely through that hole - or water coming in on a rainy day.

Make sure you have no super tight turns like you previously had, that will cause issues with the cable.

I literally did this project last weekend, and it takes longer than expected since it is the first time you're attempting it...after this time, you'll be a pro...wait another 140k...and you get to do it again : ) No extra strings, tape, anything, it simply is stiff enough to go where you need it.
 
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