Speaker upgrade (1 Viewer)

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Speaker upgrade w/pics

After one of my door speakers apparently blew up, I needed to fix it. I remember reading a few threads about speaker upgrades on here and I decided to go ahead upgrade 6 of the 9 speakers.

First off, I don't have a clue about speakers or what is good or not. My radio is stock and I was mainly just looking to replace the broken speaker and 5 other main speakers with something a bit higher quality.

I was looking to replace the front grill, and all four door speakers. I didn't bother with the far rear speakers or the woofer, both of which are hard for me to access and I figured the payout wouldn't be worth the hassle.

The first thing I did was rip out 1 of each the 3 pairs of speakers and took to them a local stereo store to try to match them up. The first problem I ran into was the front dash speakers were much smaller than I anticipated and I knew I could go larger, but I wasn't sure how much larger.

We settled on a set of 4" Kenwoods. As it would turn out, one side fit perfectly. The other side didn't...more on that later.

The next problem was the front door speakers. They are reverse cone/magnet, something or other type speakers, when apparently blew the stereo guy away because he'd never seen that style before. The problem I had was there's a metal bar in the door directly behind the speaker that limits the depth. I ended up going with set of 6.5" Kenwoods with 1.5" depth that just "barely" fit.

The rear door speakers are unique in how they are set up and I picked up another set of 4" and modified the speaker holder to fit them.

Here's the speakers. I have no idea if they are any good, but they do sound better than stock.

More coming soon....
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This is about the dash speakers.

In the first pic, you can see the size difference in the stock speakers and the Kenwood 4". I looks like the dash grill is designed to use 4" speakers. Whey they didn't I have no idea. The 4" speakers fit perfectly on the driver's as you can see in pic 2 and bolted right up. I used some foam to keep the speaker stabilized so that it won't rattle, since only two screws only holding it in place.

The problem came in the passenger side. The dept is too shallow thanks to what I think the factory stereo amp behind the speaker. I didn't have time to pull the dash apart, but I'll have to see if I move the amp back or relocate it to fit. For now I had to leave the stock speaker in place on that side.
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The front speakers were a little easier than I thought they'd be. I purchased spacer rings, since I figured they'd be too long, but I didn't need them.

I put some foam on the metal bar behind the speaker, because I knew the speaker would end up making contact here. I also added some foam around the speaker edge. There's about a 1/4" gap, which the foam helps to take up, while also providing cushion for the speaker.

When cinched down, the panel and stock speaker grill fit perfectly. I ended up cutting the wires off the stock speaker and soldering them into the new speakers wiring so it would plug in like stock.

Pic 1 shows the stock speaker and how thin it is with its unique design. You can also see the bar (window run) inside the speaker that prevents using a deeper speaker. Pic 2 and 3 shows the stock speaker (left) and Kenwood 6.5" (right).
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Pic 1 shows the factor wire soldered into the Kenwood speaker.

Pic 2 shows the foam in place on the window run and around the speaker well to act as spacer and cushion for the speaker. It bolted in place using the stock holes, but I had to use longer screws.

Pic 3 shows the speaker mounted...pretty much hassle free.
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The rear door speakers required a little bit more work. I'm not sure upgrading them is even worth it, because it doesn't sound like they put out much output, but I did it anyway.

They using a unique speaker cup that the factory speaker bolts into and then that bolts into the door. A 4" speaker fits perfect, except it is slightly too deep for the cup. So I cut the bottom part out. Then glued the new speaker to the cup (the factory grill also helps to hold the speaker in place) and bolted it back into the door. I also soldered the factory wire harness to the new speaker wire harness.

Pic 1 shows the stock speaker cup, the stock speaker and the new Kenwood 4" speaker.

Pic 2 shows the bottom part (right) cut out of the speaker cup (left) so that the Kenwood would fit.
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Last pics...

Pic 1 shows the new speaker glued (well actually black RTV'd) into the speaker cup.

Pic 2 shows the new speaker mounted into the rear door.

That's all for now. I still need to figure out to mount that front passenger side dash speaker. But overall, the sound is much improved over stock and I'm happy with the new speakers. And the door panels and stock grills are in place, so noone will ever know the speakers are different.
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Nice write-up! A lot of detail.

I also replaced all my speakers
(all but the the sub.) I used the 3 1/2 infinities for the rear (3rd row)

Infinity Reference 3022cf 3-1/2" 2-way car speakers at Crutchfield.com

I found that once i replaced the 6 main speakers and disconnected the sub, the rear speakers had enough distortion to muddy-up the overall sound. As long as I was going to pull the headliner down to disconnect them, I went ahead and just put in new ones. They sound pretty good, well if only from the very back.
 
i have found your information to be helpful so far although i have not yet embarked on this journey or even decided on speakers... i see that you seem to have alot of info on the landcruisers and was unable to email you n your separate web page due to the way my computer is set up... anyhow i have a 95 landcruiser and the speakers need to go... i need some help...
 
I am getting ready to replace the front speakers and add tweeters at the windsheild masts for highs. I am going to try to cram 5 1/4 speakers inside the front dash, I am afraid the door panels coming off will be a nightmare of broken clips. I am also going to rip out the factory sub and replace it as another member did with a self contained kenwood powered sub box. Should help the overall sound.

How much trouble did the door panels give you coming off?
 
Door panels come off easy, just remove the screws holding the handle and the armrest. Then gently pull the panel off, once you start to pull, you can feel where the clips are and pull near them. Once you have the door panel clips disengaged, you can reach behind it and disconnect the speaker and door light connectors. Then lift upward slightly on the panel to get it off of the top of the door.

I wouldn't bother with putting any speakers in the dash, just disconnect them. Wait until you do the rest, and add 'em later if you really feel like it. It will be just as easy to them later, but you may find you are satisfied with out them. Besides, I highly doubt you will fit 5 1/4" speakers in there.
 
Well I'm gonna try to jam bigger speakers in the dask...I think I can get a good result if they fit for sound. I really think the tweeters in the window masts will liven up the highs. I will report back for sure!
 
mfred,
Take a look at the PS dash mount before you get too far into the project. It is very tight in there. The OEM amp sits right behind the speaker -- and the speaker is much smaller than you'd think from looking at it without the dash apart.

Of course you can remove and ditch the OEM amp. But there are several other ECU boxes back there, so you'll only gain so much room. Not saying a 5" speaker won't go, just that it will take some design and work. It's not a R&R type of project, which most of the rest is.
 
mfred,
Take a look at the PS dash mount before you get too far into the project. It is very tight in there. The OEM amp sits right behind the speaker -- and the speaker is much smaller than you'd think from looking at it without the dash apart.

Of course you can remove and ditch the OEM amp. But there are several other ECU boxes back there, so you'll only gain so much room. Not saying a 5" speaker won't go, just that it will take some design and work. It's not a R&R type of project, which most of the rest is.

Yea, I ditched the oem amp for the room. I am thinking if shes gonna go its gonne be attached to the actual dash not the grill like the oem. I ordered a set so I'm waiting on the post man.

You guys think that my oem power wire to the rear amp will power a new 150 Watt amp?

I havnt taken it apart yet but I am willing to bet its a very small wire. If its at least a #12 fused somewhere along the line at more than 15A should be ok. If not its time to fish a new wire to the battery and patch cables to my head unit.

God I wish it would warm up...
 
I just ordered a set of these 6.5's for my front doors. Let's hope I have the same luck you did with the install.
 
The KSC-1652S were subbed for my order when I ordered the exact same ones you have. Well to my surprise they fit, yes they need longer screws but they fit and sound so much better. Thanks for your help.
 
Pic 1 shows the factor wire soldered into the Kenwood speaker.

Pic 2 shows the foam in place on the window run and around the speaker well to act as spacer and cushion for the speaker. It bolted in place using the stock holes, but I had to use longer screws.

Pic 3 shows the speaker mounted...pretty much hassle free.
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Can you please tell me where you bought the foam sticky liners at and how thick they were? I'm putting in 6.5 speakers too. They are Polk marine speakers. Please let me know.
 
Can you please tell me where you bought the foam sticky liners at and how thick they were? I'm putting in 6.5 speakers too. They are Polk marine speakers. Please let me know.
He hasn't been around for almost 3 years, but I'd use a 3M double stick foam if I was trying to replicate that build.
 

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