- Thread starter
- #201
I've only blasted with sand and glass bead, you think walnut shells would work well on this crap ? I imagine it would where it is dry and crusty, but I wouldn't think so where is is still a bit gooey...
Jason
Builds Spdstr280Z's While I'm in There 80 Series Build...
- Thread starter Spdstr280Z
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I've only blasted with sand and glass bead, you think walnut shells would work well on this crap ? I imagine it would where it is dry and crusty, but I wouldn't think so where is is still a bit gooey...
Jason
- Thread starter
- #202
I can imagine a therapist having a field day with me. OCD and laziness at constant war. Do it right, or ignore it, I have a hard time in the middle.
Jason
The shells are extremely coarse. I've used them to strip paint and to strip undercoat before.
- Thread starter
- #204
I have been dreading this... The tranny and transfer case were miserable to remove, and I have heard they are worse going back in. I decided to put the transmission back in without the transfer case, which I'm not quite finished with. With the Harbor Freight transmission lift, the now clean working environment (the truck anyway, the garage is still a cluster) and a bit of luck, it was no problem. Probably the easiest I have ever done, and I can bench press (well, I used to could anyway) old Datsun transmissions.
And yes, that is a new seal.
Jason
And yes, that is a new seal.
Jason
That underbelly looks amazing! I'm actually doing the same thing on my '86 4Runner. 20 hours of wire wheel and scraping later... I feel your pain.
As for the raptor line, I'm debating on spraying it black, or matching the body (white, like yours). After seeing the white, I'm thinking that's the way to do it. It'll make the frame and other components really stand out. (currently restoring everything).
My Question: Did you color match the raptor liner to the body, or go with a basic white?
As for the raptor line, I'm debating on spraying it black, or matching the body (white, like yours). After seeing the white, I'm thinking that's the way to do it. It'll make the frame and other components really stand out. (currently restoring everything).
My Question: Did you color match the raptor liner to the body, or go with a basic white?
- Thread starter
- #206
Thanks ! I wish I had done it while I had the tank out and gotten a lot more area. I debated on the color for a while too, and black was the default choice, but then I decided that Toyota painted it white (at least where they decided to paint it), and white would show any leaks and such really well. We'll see how it holds up to red Georgia clay, but it is supposed to wash easily and resist staining. It hasn't left the garage, but I'm really impressed with it so far. This is tintable Raptor, but the default white sold on Amazon. I think it is GM bright white.
Jason
- Thread starter
- #207
I was asked if I had any thoughts or tips on the R&R, thought I would post here too...
Things I would do differently or just thoughts in general...
Clean everything as much as possible before you dig in. Oil, grease, dirt, etc. just make it all a more miserable job. I never planned to tear in to this thing like i did, so I didn't clean it well before starting. Degrease, pressure wash, etc.
The HF 800 pound lift is great, and worked fine even on 35's, but the transmission with transfer case seems maybe too heavy for it, and I couldn't find a balance point for the combo on the platform. I took them out together, with the tranny jack under the tranny pan and a floor jack under the transfer case. Putting the transmission back in alone was a breeze with the tranny jack and with it and the truck cleaned up.
Remove the transmission and transfer case shifters completely before even trying to drop the transmission. It's tempting to leave the transfer case shifter, don't. It really needs to come off to pull the transmission far enough back to remove. Also, with both of those removed, you have fair access to the top two bellhousing to engine bolts after lowering the back of the transmission. They are a PITA still, but a couple feet of extensions does it, as opposed to trying to get to them from under the truck, behind the transmission. I also used my cell phone camera to watch while I snuck up on the bolts with the socket. the valley in the bellhousing around the bolt heads provides a bit of a guide.
Make sure the fan / radiator don't make contact when lowering the back of the transmission, loosen the fan shroud and put a block under the oil pan on a jack stand or on the cross bar to make sure the engine can't tilt too far forward once the transmission is out. Mine seemed fairly well balanced on the engine mounts held in place by the exhaust. I do have brand new engine mounts too. IDK, the FSM says do it, I did it.
Don't forget the cooler line mounts at the bellhousing and above the adapters on the right side.
Be very careful when lowering. It will be a pain in the ass to stop, get up, walk around, etc., but make sure the wiring harness doesn't catch on the cooler lines. Mine did, and damaged a couple (new) connectors.
Don't go all OCD and clean all the years worth of gunk under there while you are in there. It's pretty, but it cost me weeks and made me lose interest in the truck for the first time ever. Or do, it that makes you happy. Do handle anything that really does make sense to do while you are in there.
With the transfer case out, it is a good time to go ahead and open it up for new gears, bearings and seals...
Edit, I almost forgot, because I ran in to this before pulling the transmission, but go through the harness while you are in there. My transmission harness was in far worse shape than my engine harness. Clean, re-loom, replace any broken connectors (almost all housings are still available from Toyota). No D light, or PRNDL at all ? Now's your chance.
Jason
Things I would do differently or just thoughts in general...
Clean everything as much as possible before you dig in. Oil, grease, dirt, etc. just make it all a more miserable job. I never planned to tear in to this thing like i did, so I didn't clean it well before starting. Degrease, pressure wash, etc.
The HF 800 pound lift is great, and worked fine even on 35's, but the transmission with transfer case seems maybe too heavy for it, and I couldn't find a balance point for the combo on the platform. I took them out together, with the tranny jack under the tranny pan and a floor jack under the transfer case. Putting the transmission back in alone was a breeze with the tranny jack and with it and the truck cleaned up.
Remove the transmission and transfer case shifters completely before even trying to drop the transmission. It's tempting to leave the transfer case shifter, don't. It really needs to come off to pull the transmission far enough back to remove. Also, with both of those removed, you have fair access to the top two bellhousing to engine bolts after lowering the back of the transmission. They are a PITA still, but a couple feet of extensions does it, as opposed to trying to get to them from under the truck, behind the transmission. I also used my cell phone camera to watch while I snuck up on the bolts with the socket. the valley in the bellhousing around the bolt heads provides a bit of a guide.
Make sure the fan / radiator don't make contact when lowering the back of the transmission, loosen the fan shroud and put a block under the oil pan on a jack stand or on the cross bar to make sure the engine can't tilt too far forward once the transmission is out. Mine seemed fairly well balanced on the engine mounts held in place by the exhaust. I do have brand new engine mounts too. IDK, the FSM says do it, I did it.
Don't forget the cooler line mounts at the bellhousing and above the adapters on the right side.
Be very careful when lowering. It will be a pain in the ass to stop, get up, walk around, etc., but make sure the wiring harness doesn't catch on the cooler lines. Mine did, and damaged a couple (new) connectors.
Don't go all OCD and clean all the years worth of gunk under there while you are in there. It's pretty, but it cost me weeks and made me lose interest in the truck for the first time ever. Or do, it that makes you happy. Do handle anything that really does make sense to do while you are in there.
With the transfer case out, it is a good time to go ahead and open it up for new gears, bearings and seals...
Edit, I almost forgot, because I ran in to this before pulling the transmission, but go through the harness while you are in there. My transmission harness was in far worse shape than my engine harness. Clean, re-loom, replace any broken connectors (almost all housings are still available from Toyota). No D light, or PRNDL at all ? Now's your chance.
Jason
I was asked if I had any thoughts or tips on the R&R, thought I would post here too...
Things I would do differently or just thoughts in general...
Clean everything as much as possible before you dig in. Oil, grease, dirt, etc. just make it all a more miserable job. I never planned to tear in to this thing like i did, so I didn't clean it well before starting. Degrease, pressure wash, etc.
The HF 800 pound lift is great, and worked fine even on 35's, but the transmission with transfer case seems maybe too heavy for it, and I couldn't find a balance point for the combo on the platform. I took them out together, with the tranny jack under the tranny pan and a floor jack under the transfer case. Putting the transmission back in alone was a breeze with the tranny jack and with it and the truck cleaned up.
Remove the transmission and transfer case shifters completely before even trying to drop the transmission. It's tempting to leave the transfer case shifter, don't. It really needs to come off to pull the transmission far enough back to remove. Also, with both of those removed, you have fair access to the top two bellhousing to engine bolts after lowering the back of the transmission. They are a PITA still, but a couple feet of extensions does it, as opposed to trying to get to them from under the truck, behind the transmission. I also used my cell phone camera to watch while I snuck up on the bolts with the socket. the valley in the bellhousing around the bolt heads provides a bit of a guide.
Make sure the fan / radiator don't make contact when lowering the back of the transmission, loosen the fan shroud and put a block under the oil pan on a jack stand or on the cross bar to make sure the engine can't tilt too far forward once the transmission is out. Mine seemed fairly well balanced on the engine mounts held in place by the exhaust. I do have brand new engine mounts too. IDK, the FSM says do it, I did it.
Don't forget the cooler line mounts at the bellhousing and above the adapters on the right side.
Be very careful when lowering. It will be a pain in the ass to stop, get up, walk around, etc., but make sure the wiring harness doesn't catch on the cooler lines. Mine did, and damaged a couple (new) connectors.
Don't go all OCD and clean all the years worth of gunk under there while you are in there. It's pretty, but it cost me weeks and made me lose interest in the truck for the first time ever. Or do, it that makes you happy. Do handle anything that really does make sense to do while you are in there.
With the transfer case out, it is a good time to go ahead and open it up for new gears, bearings and seals...
Edit, I almost forgot, because I ran in to this before pulling the transmission, but go through the harness while you are in there. My transmission harness was in far worse shape than my engine harness. Clean, re-loom, replace any broken connectors (almost all housings are still available from Toyota). No D light, or PRNDL at all ? Now's your chance.
Jason
When I was having mine rebuilt I asked what labor was to r&r it.
They told me $800. And that would include labor if it needed warranty work.
After hearing you talk it was well worth it.
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
^^this. I had a nasty connector between my NSS and harness. No PRND2L, no reverse lights, no gear holding in 2 or L. These connectors are all now soooo old and have been beat to hell in many climates. I Would absolutely inspect/ replace/ re-pin all my harness connections if I pulled the trans or the engine.
This is great info. Thanks for posting @Spdstr280Z
- Thread starter
- #210
Following up on those tranny connectors.... It would have been 10X easier doing this while the engine harness was on a table a while back, but... I missed it. So, I'm playing operation from the top. This is the connector @PNWTreeOctopus is talking about above. If there is one corroded connector on your 80, this is probably it. Horrible location, and a joke of a condom protecting it.
So, bye....
And replaced with something better. Which one of these things is not like the other.... Which one of these thigs does not belong... ?
And the flex shot....
Jason
So, bye....
And replaced with something better. Which one of these things is not like the other.... Which one of these thigs does not belong... ?
And the flex shot....
Jason
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #211
While I'm in there.... Took way too long to decide on the low range gears to go along with the high range underdrive, then way too long to actually do the work...
Old front output seemed bent. Better safe than sorry, I don't want to ever pull this thing again.
I had some parts left over....
Jason
Old front output seemed bent. Better safe than sorry, I don't want to ever pull this thing again.
I had some parts left over....
Jason
Is the transfer case back in, if so how does it drive with the new gears? Were your 3rd members re-geared, and if so what gears in the 3rds?
- Thread starter
- #213
It is bolted back in, but hasn't moved yet. That wiring harness work was just last night, and had to pull the wiring harness off all the sensors and clip on the left had side of the engine to get the tranny connector where I could work on it. I passed out before I could finish reinstalling the harness, reinstall the starter, etc. I have a little more work to do in addition to that before it moves, but hopefully soon. Don't want to curse myself, but hopefully this weekend. I did not care for the driving / shifting characteristics at all on 35's and stock gears. Thirds are still stock gearing, just changed the transfer case gearing for now.
Jason
- Thread starter
- #214
I actually bought a cheap blaster set up and walnut shells to clean up the aluminum transfer case. I'll try it on the next round of caked on petroleum cleaning.
Jason
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
I’ll be continuing to watch this closely. I’m also not thrilled with stock gearing and 35’s. I hate the highway gear hunting and have gears and lockers sitting on a service cart in my garage (since spring).
Do you anticipate also doing the thirds as well? Or is this a belt and suspenders approach? My simple mind thinks it would give you some very low speed crawling capacity in low range…which I struggle to see the disadvantages of.
- Thread starter
- #216
I did Eaton in the rear and left the stock gearing with the intention to do transfer case underdrive first if I wasn't happy with stock gearing on 35's. Just didn't expect it to be immediately. But, I disliked stock gearing so much in the 100 miles or so I drove it before I had to pull the tranny anyway, having the case out, it just made sense. The 10% underdrive will return me to stockish gearing on 35's, and the low range is icing. If I need more, I still have the thirds to play with like you said. Zuk said if I regear in the future, he'll help me out on the labor redo on the rear he's already been in for locker install. Not that I expect him to have to do that, but it was a nice offer.
Jason
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
Just the fact that Zuk will do your gears is pretty awesome. I thought he was camping until further notice.
- Thread starter
- #218
Yeah, um, look how long this build has been going on.... That conversation was last year. 
PNWTreeOctopus
SILVER Star
I like your build because it’s like mine!Yeah, um, look how long this build has been going on.... That conversation was last year.
- Thread starter
- #220
Past due update time ! The transfer case is back in (behind the transmission that went in in the pics above, which in turn is behind the rear main seal that I screwed up during the original rebuild). Me being me, of course that was a 6 month endeavor by the time I pulled the transmission and transfer case, cleaned everything up, decided to regear and rebuild the transfer case, Raptor line part of the floor, etc. The good news is that I have put a few miles on it (maybe 50 or so, need to check), and all the fluids are staying in their respective locations and not trying to rejoin the earth. Seems I can install a rear main seal on the second third attempt ! The bad news, it seemed to want to kill me. I had noticed the steering lock "sticking" a couple times before, but nothing serious. It was just a little grabby at first, you could tell the pin wasn't all the way back. Seems it happened at the alignment shop and they declined to test drive it. I made a mental note, but didn't really want anyone driving it anyway, and i had no other problems with it. But then it tried to kill me. After the transfer case was back in and I drove it for a day it was a little more "sticky", then making a hard right on to main street, it tried to lock and send me in to the curb. I was able to overpower it and pop it free before anything happened, but needless to say it sat in the driveway not moving until I figured that out. I had all kinds of theories, This was an e-bay steering column from Arizona to replace my very rusty one. I though maybe that sand had worked it's way in and worn down the mechanism. I even ordered parts for it. Once I pulled it apart (I can get a steering column out pretty quickly now) and taking it apart, I realized the answer was much simpler. This thing had been shipped across the country. When I received it, I just popped in my lock cylinder and a new switch with no problems, and installed the column. For those who come behind me, when you have both the lock cylinder out and the key switch off, the steering lock cam is under pressure from the steering lock rod spring, and just like any other cam under pressure, will try to rotate out of position. When it is 180 degrees out of position, the cylinder and switch will go right back on, but it will try to kill you later.... I rotated it 180 and held with a pair of needle nose piers from the switch end while popping the lock cylinder back in. Now the steering column locks when it is supposed to, and doesn't when it's not.
Jason
Jason
