SPC Upper Control Arms (1 Viewer)

[Jordan345]

Just relaying what i heard from the SPC folks. larger ball allows for more angle from how the ball sits in the arm, which allow the possibility of running a longer shock and more useable travel. i'm not sure if this was a comparison to the TC uniball, but from what i understand the benefit will be lower maintenance. As for adjustability, they're saying there is more flexibility for adjusting castor, camber and toe, in a less complicated format.

it would be great to hear Christo speak more to this aspect; this is just regurgitation from SPC.

 

[AimCOtaco]

Hmmm... the apex of the "A" and the shock length are the limiting factor on droop (not to mention CV limits), how does it provide more articulation than TC? And how it is more adjustable? Don't get me wrong, I think a sealed ball is better, but I don't see where it's going to provide any benefits to articulation or adjustment over the TC. If it's a comparison to OE then yes I would hope it is an improvement.

Looking at Slees 100 what I saw was that you could have adjustment at the ball as well as the stock adjuster so you have a compound adjustment resulting in more range and better caster control. Also, the inner pivot is different (can't say how much different) and appears to have metal bearing against the mounting tabs (not in a slip mode, static). Couldn't tell and didn't ask much about the inner make up but sufice to say it is different than the competition.

My issue with the TC is that the inner bushings can rotate against and extruded into the adjustment slot which I expect to kill the urethane. That and the limitations of the factory adjustments has me keeping an eye on these SPC's. My lift is still conservative and my alignment angles are barely in the green already. I also think added castor would do a lot to reduce wander at speed or under power so just hitting factory specs may not be the best set up for lifted trucks. Personally I have zero issues with uniballs, to the contrary they have worked well for me and I prefer removing the bolt to separating the taper style.

After I saw the SPC my first impression was that they were a superior design and there would soon be a lot of folks changing from the TC's or JT's over to the SPC's. We'll see. I don't know if the production versions will vary or if they will be the same as what I saw on Christo's green 100. Reading on the boards I was skeptical but seeing them in person is making me sway the SPC way.

These are just my random thoughts and observations, time and testing will tell.

 

[OregonLC]

Just for everyone's reference...

 

[pfran42]

Bump for an update! I see the SPC-25455 UCAs on Slee's site. Are they available now? Also, any feedback from early adopters?

EDIT:

Disregard, I found the other thread on these.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Anyone know what size the top nut is on the SPCs? Looks like 32mm or 1-1/4"

 

[Skidoo]

32mm socket fits, 1-1/4" socket very tight going on.

 

[KlausVanWinkle]

Thanks. I picked up a 1-1/4in and it worked.

 

[Fitzgerald]

Installed mine today. Straightforward install. Very excited.

 

[Bloomer]

Installed SPC last weekend and headed to Firestone tomorrow for a lifetime alignment. Prior to SPC installation, the CV axles where at a slight angle (with OME 2.5 inch lift and Slee diff drop). Noticed after installation of SPCs (and prior to alignment) the CV axles where almost exactly level with center wheel to fender measurements at 20.5". Had the great idea that I needed more front end lift, so turned the t-bars 1/2 turn (with front tires off the ground, of course). Drove a few miles turning the steering wheel several times to settle the FE. Measurements after drive is 22" center wheel to fender. I was only looking for 1/4" additional lift but ended up with 1.5". I'm sure I'll get some additional settling, but is it conceivable it'll drop 1.25"?

 

[Bloomer]

^^^so out of sheer paranoia, I turned down the t bars 1/4 turn and will see how things go after the alignment adjustments tomorrow. Guess worst case is after the alignment I can turn up/down the t bars and drive the hour back to Firestone to put the lifetime alignment to good use .

 

[Rover4]

Turning the steering wheel several times could have upset the geometry. Before I measure, I slowly pull into my driveway with the steering wheel dead center, tapping on the brake a couple times to “bounce” the front end up and down, and coast for a few feet, finally coasting to a stop. Then bust out the tape measure.

As the front suspension cycles up and down, the track width increases/decreases, which can screw up your measurement at ride height.

I tried to figure it out once, but it was something like, one full turn on the torsion bar adjustment bolt raised/lowered the vehicle by 1/8”. Your results will vary.

 

[Bloomer]

Thanks Rover4. I did initially the same thing (slowly move forward/reverse tapping brakes) with no change in height. Thought exercising the suspension a little more may help settle it, but perhaps not. Will see how things go today.

I remember reading in other threads that 1 turn of the t bars results in 1/8" lift. I wasn't looking for a lot of additional lift. Was just thinking with level CV axles and the SPCs I could afford a little more FE lift and still have enough rake that it would not affect drive quality. Whoa, I didn't expect 1.5 inches from one turn. Pretty sure it will settle but made me nervous.

 

[Bloomer]

So here are the alignment numbers. As stated above, I think I still have the front lifted a little too much (shouldn't have messed with it) but will see how it does and lower if needed. Any thoughts good or bad on how it aligned?

 

[Bloomer]

Initial impressions (city driving) even with the front end sitting a little high I am no longer feeling the pull to the right when I accelerate from a stop. Also no longer notice the twitching, pulling, or floating feeling when I hit a bump or get into an uneven worn spot on the road.

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

I've had my SPC Upper control arms installed for about 2 years (less than 8K miles) and the ball joint is smoked on both sides. Does anyone know if they sell just the ball joint to replace?

 

[SanDiegoCruiser]

I've had my SPC Upper control arms installed for about 2 years (less than 8K miles) and the ball joint is smoked on both sides. Does anyone know if they sell just the ball joint to replace?

I contacted SPC. The ball joints can be replaced for $98 for two. Part number: 25002.

 

[TheForger]

I've had my SPC Upper control arms installed for about 2 years (less than 8K miles) and the ball joint is smoked on both sides. Does anyone know if they sell just the ball joint to replace?

A few other (cheaper) options you can consider:

MetalTech - SPC Replacement Ball Joints w/Zerks $81.56

Summit Racing - SPC Performance Ball Joints $69.94

 

[reznunt]

I've had my SPC Upper control arms installed for about 2 years (less than 8K miles) and the ball joint is smoked on both sides. Does anyone know if they sell just the ball joint to replace?

Awesome, thanks for the report. I was already leaning towards uniball uca's...

 

[hoser]

@SanDiegoCruiser Did you have the older style ball joint or the newer style w/ the zerk fitting? It might not make a difference but it's worth keeping track.

 

[abuck99]

Please post up what the symptoms were. Did you pull the boot off and inspect- is the cup or the ball worn out?