Boston Mangler said:
Just the way I had to do it, thanks to phoned instructions from Drexx.
Took us about 1.5 hours for the front alone.
Kalawang
Spacer Install on OME Lift
- Thread starter Romer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Just the way I had to do it, thanks to phoned instructions from Drexx.
Took us about 1.5 hours for the front alone.
Kalawang
Romer said:
If you want to remove or reduce the rake, you have to install the right height spacers only in the front.
Kalawang
- Thread starter
- #23
I only had them on the front. If I installed more of a spacer it would have made the pinion angle worse, so I don't know what you mean.
I had a 2" droop up front with a former set of springs and solved the droop with 1" steel Dakar ring spacers. Of course, that still left an inch droop, but I thought it better to leave it as I sometimes carry heavy things in back. Since then, I have installed 4" springs and the Dakars and former springs are resting in my garage.
There are plenty of rubber ring spacers here and they are unpopulr simply because they compress so easily and quickly. Even the poly spacers, which costs us much, are said to compress after a few years, but at least give you a period of good use. In all instances where I was witness to a droop fix or a lean fix, the poly spacers, chosen for correct height, solved the problems.
I've never experienced pinion problems, or dealt with them so I'm not able to offer help here. Do please be kind enough to post whatever solutions you discover.
Kalawang
There are plenty of rubber ring spacers here and they are unpopulr simply because they compress so easily and quickly. Even the poly spacers, which costs us much, are said to compress after a few years, but at least give you a period of good use. In all instances where I was witness to a droop fix or a lean fix, the poly spacers, chosen for correct height, solved the problems.
I've never experienced pinion problems, or dealt with them so I'm not able to offer help here. Do please be kind enough to post whatever solutions you discover.
Kalawang
MoJ
Moderator
Another data point for someone considering spacers-
I recently installed the Mr. Gasket after having the OME Medium (F/R) for about 4 months. Before Mr. Gasket I had a 1 inch difference between front and rear when measuring from the ground, through the hub, to the lip of the flare. After Mr. G I have a 3/8 inch difference. 3/8 isn't noticeable to my eyes. I had to measure to see if there was even a difference at all. Another point, although my CC bushings have been sitting in the garage for sometime I've yet to install them. I felt comfortable with the way the truck drove and didn't really see an immediate need to install them. However, now with Mr. G, the need is more apparent.
EDIT: Haven't noticed any pinion issues.
I recently installed the Mr. Gasket after having the OME Medium (F/R) for about 4 months. Before Mr. Gasket I had a 1 inch difference between front and rear when measuring from the ground, through the hub, to the lip of the flare. After Mr. G I have a 3/8 inch difference. 3/8 isn't noticeable to my eyes. I had to measure to see if there was even a difference at all. Another point, although my CC bushings have been sitting in the garage for sometime I've yet to install them. I felt comfortable with the way the truck drove and didn't really see an immediate need to install them. However, now with Mr. G, the need is more apparent.
EDIT: Haven't noticed any pinion issues.
Moj...
Indeed.
I ran the truck with OME heavies and not much weight and I think the truck hated the angles. Lots of metal hitting metal and a torn up u-joint in the front drive shaft.
After all of that I decided to take care of the CC's on the front control arms and a new OEM Toy in the rear CC bushing hole. I also rebuilt my front drive shaft with OEM Toy. materials. Sway bar drops, a bit of grinding on the relay link behind the axle, and new adjustable panhards front and rear, and I am feeling much better about the way the truck rides and the way the truck handles (note: I also drive without steering stabilizer because of a mistake on my part; and, also, no rear sway bar currently...another boo-boo on my part
).
I am getting ready to do adjustable upper rear control arms too, as well as replacing all the bushings in all of the arms (these things do eventually deteriorate).
I think the ride will be increasingly improved especially as everything starts to wear into place and become a part of the whole operational suspension.
The way I look at it, lifting a truck does indeed put wear on already-worn suspension components. The more I read and research into driveline problems, I am noticing that most of them occur post-lift/suspension geometry changes. I think the Toy. engineers indeed were very specific about angles of connection and truck physics (stuff I don't know much about yet, though I am learning).
It seems that taking care of problems right away after the lift is the best time to increase the truck's longevity as well as increase the durability and performance of the vehicles. More $$$ upfront, but I think less worry later.
That means I feed Slee and Dan's dogs' constantly
I will be driving the truck for the first time since being on stands for the past week and a half. I expect and hope for great results....pics soon.
And Ken--thanks for reviving this thread. We are creating good data points for these rigs...
Best.
-onur
Akron, OH
Indeed.
I ran the truck with OME heavies and not much weight and I think the truck hated the angles. Lots of metal hitting metal and a torn up u-joint in the front drive shaft.
After all of that I decided to take care of the CC's on the front control arms and a new OEM Toy in the rear CC bushing hole. I also rebuilt my front drive shaft with OEM Toy. materials. Sway bar drops, a bit of grinding on the relay link behind the axle, and new adjustable panhards front and rear, and I am feeling much better about the way the truck rides and the way the truck handles (note: I also drive without steering stabilizer because of a mistake on my part; and, also, no rear sway bar currently...another boo-boo on my part
).I am getting ready to do adjustable upper rear control arms too, as well as replacing all the bushings in all of the arms (these things do eventually deteriorate).
I think the ride will be increasingly improved especially as everything starts to wear into place and become a part of the whole operational suspension.
The way I look at it, lifting a truck does indeed put wear on already-worn suspension components. The more I read and research into driveline problems, I am noticing that most of them occur post-lift/suspension geometry changes. I think the Toy. engineers indeed were very specific about angles of connection and truck physics (stuff I don't know much about yet, though I am learning).
It seems that taking care of problems right away after the lift is the best time to increase the truck's longevity as well as increase the durability and performance of the vehicles. More $$$ upfront, but I think less worry later.
That means I feed Slee and Dan's dogs' constantly
I will be driving the truck for the first time since being on stands for the past week and a half. I expect and hope for great results....pics soon.
And Ken--thanks for reviving this thread. We are creating good data points for these rigs...
Best.
-onur
Akron, OH
Kalawang said:
Hi Kalawang,
Where in PI did buy your the dakar steel spacers? Do they have it for the rear too? How much are they? A friend of mine is coming over
from PI maybey nxt month. Maybe I can have him get me some if
the price is right.
Salamat
I bought mine second hand. The PO didn't like his LC so tall and seeing mine, asked my advice on how to lower it. I saw them on his car and told him how to remove it and to call me if he needed help. The end of the story is he and his wife were plenty happy with a shorter LC and I bought the Dakars from him. They actually came from Japan as he bought his LC from there. Same model as mine.
You can have some metal ones made up in a machine shop. The only spacers I've seen locally are the poly stuff and they cost a lot less in the States than here. I'm holding on to this set in case I opt for bigger tires that would require more lift.
Kalawang
You can have some metal ones made up in a machine shop. The only spacers I've seen locally are the poly stuff and they cost a lot less in the States than here. I'm holding on to this set in case I opt for bigger tires that would require more lift.
Kalawang
I found an easier way of doing this this weekend. I started out the install by taking off the tire and shock and sway bar and I still couldn't get enough drop to get the spacer in. So I grabbed a ratchet strap from the garage, ran it from the spring under the axle and back to the spring, making sure I didn't crush any hoses or cables. Then I ratcheted it down a bit. The second side I got smarter. I lifted the axle as far as I could go, ran the strap under the axle again and then lowered the axle (wheel off). I was able to put the spacer in without taking anything but the tire off. Don't know what the safety factor is on this method, but it's quick. I'm only running the 1" spacers for now, since I won't be putting on bigger tires until the currents wear out, and will worry about a real lift then. But hey for $43 for a locally available part (Pep Boys, the box is a different brand than Mr. Gasket, but esentially the same thing), and a couple hours of time, I figure it's worth the effort for an extra inch.
- Thread starter
- #30
Update - I fixed my slider problem, tt had moved up into contact with the pinch weld. And I had my rear drive shaft rebuilt and balanced. I decided to re-install the 1" spacers. Took it for a test drive on the highway and everything is working fine.
I love a happy ending.
I love a happy ending.
My buddy just bought a 2 inch lift for his new Tundra. It came with aluminum spacers for the front. Anyone know where to get something like this for the FJ? I wanted a more "permanent" spacer option. I have a set of the OME spacers, but really like the idea of a non-squish option.
elmariachi said:
Thanks! I was looking for somwething like this https://forum.ih8mud.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=29694&d=1122385521
but these are killer and way more factory. I'll have to see which works best...
XXXR,
I noticed in another thread you mentioned you were running an OME heavy lift right now.
I am running that same lift and just got a full set of 1.5" spacers for the front and rear. Have you given any thought to the other items that need to be addressed before throwing spacer like that in?
I.E. Brake lines, sway bar extensions, lower bumpstops, caster correction, etc.
Just something to think about.
I noticed in another thread you mentioned you were running an OME heavy lift right now.
I am running that same lift and just got a full set of 1.5" spacers for the front and rear. Have you given any thought to the other items that need to be addressed before throwing spacer like that in?
I.E. Brake lines, sway bar extensions, lower bumpstops, caster correction, etc.
Just something to think about.
I was debating whether to go heavy or not and decided at the end to run mediums in the front. Now I'm looking to level out the rig a bit with the 130 lb ARB Bull Bar. I'm actually looking for a 1" - 1.25" spacer. The aluminum spacers look a lot more road worthy than the ones I have now. Still lookng for the right ones.
Boy I wish I had a set of those coil compressors when I did my install.
Imagine doing a full OME 850/863 & shocks swap out by yourself, in the dark and raining out. Yeah, once I had everything apart, I ran out of light and it started to pour.
Best part, I didn't have proper coil compressors... so guess what I used. Yup a pair of Irwin Quick Grips. It was an interesting experience. I don't recommend it from a safety conscience stand point. I'm glad to say I didn't hurt myself, which could have easily happened in this case.
Imagine doing a full OME 850/863 & shocks swap out by yourself, in the dark and raining out. Yeah, once I had everything apart, I ran out of light and it started to pour.
Best part, I didn't have proper coil compressors... so guess what I used. Yup a pair of Irwin Quick Grips. It was an interesting experience. I don't recommend it from a safety conscience stand point. I'm glad to say I didn't hurt myself, which could have easily happened in this case.
