Sound Deadening (1 Viewer)

[Elbert]

what happens if the dynamat stuff getst wet ? Any negative impact? You go through a deep mudhole or water crossing?

 

[Spook50]

what happens if the dynamat stuff getst wet ? Any negative impact? You go through a deep mudhole or water crossing?

My understanding is, nothing will happen. It's basically tar and foil (actually I think the stuff is a butyl-type compound), so water won't damage it.

 

[MYTANK]

Great Thread / Posts R Of M

I would definitely consider this mod if i wasn't going to strip my cruiser back and paint it.

Will definitely be something i do when it goes back together though

Cheers,

Dan

 

[rondog]

resize photos

You can register on car domain.com and once your there the pics you post will automatically be resized.Then save them and thats it.

No affiliation, but anyone interested in sound dampening should check out Second Skin Audio's products. http://www.secondskinaudio.com/cgi-bin/index.cgi

I'm just about finished using their Damplifier (butyl mat) on the floors and doors of my 62 followed by their Overkill (closed cell foam). I'll post some pics as soon as I can figure out how to resize them.

 

[jdhall3]

So is it okay to put it down over the toyota tar...it appears painted or something...I think I'm too lazy to pull all that crap up. See my attached photo. I'm about to get started I will try to upload some photos later on.

John

 

[Tofudebeest]

Here's my $64K Q:
After putting this stuff down, how much play is there in it? IH8Carpet and will never put any back in, but am convinced that Dyna Extreme is the way to go, especially with the diesel. So, what are my options for a cover over the Dyna? Could I Herculine on top of it? I suspect not, even with many coats to thicken it. I already have the Tuff Tread diamond plate patterned vinyl flooring from $OR, but the fit is less than perfect and the foil would peek through in many places. I could buy that same stuff from McMaster or elsewhere, not pre-cut or maybe paint the foil to obscure it where the vinyl does not cover well...

Thoughts?

I just got finished reading over that comparison linked above. VERY helpful. Seems that Second Skin Damplifier Pro is the way to go.

I think I'll email that guy with my question and see what he thinks. I'll post up the reply, if I get one...

 

[Tofudebeest]

I just wrote this email to QCM (roy@QCMinds.com):

Hi Roy,

I'm in the process of adding some heat and vibration dampener material to the interior of my vehicle (will likely opt for the Second Skin Damplifier Pro). This product is a butyl composite with an aluminum foil cover and has a strong adhesive to bond it to the sheetmetal. I am not interested in reinstalling carpeting in this vehicle as I do not care for carpeting in vehicles for maintenance and appearance reasons.

I was in a local playground this past weekend and noted the rubber-like coating on the metal benches and playground equipment and thought that such a coating would make an ideal surface for the interior of an automobile, particularly in an off-road vehicle like my old Toyota Land Cruiser . In searching for information regarding this material, I stumbled upon QCM's website.

It is important to note that I will not be able to use any of the popular truck bedliner type materials (Herculiner, Line-X, Rhinoliner, etc.), all popular for interior and even exterior applications, but not on top of the aforementioned sound/heat deadener due to the necessity of a rigid surface for those products; they're simply too stiff and would crack/separate from the soft subsurface. They just can't be applied (to my knowledge) on surfaces that have any give to them. A "rubbery", flexible alternative seems ideal.

I am curious about your plastisol dip coatings and wonder if this might be a suitable covering to go on top. Among the many considerations I specifically would like to know:

1) Does a plastisol coating off gas VOCs or other harmful or annoying odors and would there be any health considerations for such an application?
2) Can this product be painted or sprayed in?
3) Is this a suitable D.I.Y. product or are there factors making it necessary for this to be only a professional installation?
4) Would a plastisol coating adhere to aluminum foil?
5) Cost for such an application.

Thank you,
Tofudebeest
(no I didn't actually sign it with my mud name)...

 

[Tofudebeest]

Quick reply by Roy:

Hello Brian

well we have a problem here. Plastisol is a heat cured PVC that needs 350 deg F to cure and cross-link.
Basically an oven is required.

There is an air dry coating that we make, but it is loaded with solvent . (Pure plastisol has 0% solvent).
on our web page the air-dry is under:
http://www.qcminds.com/cpvc.htm

We do have a few Urethane water based formulas that would work too, in particular MF-231(see Data sheet attached).

regards

Roy Wheeldon
Phone: 253-859-0933 Fax: 253-859-0935
roy@qcminds.com"

And that attachment:

MF-231 URETHANE - BASED
FABRIC TOP COAT


MF-231 IS AN AIR-DRY WATER BASE TOP COATING FOR SURFACE DESIGNS ON FABRICS, GARMENTS, PLASTICS OR METAL SURFACES. IT CAN BE MIXED WITH GLITTER AND WATER-BASE PIGMENTS FOR SPECIAL EFFECTS.
ALWAYS WASH TEST YOUR PRINTS AND DESIGNS BEFORE PRODUCTION RUNS. IT CAN BE SILK-SCREENED OR HAND APPLIED AND CAN BE AIR-DRIED OR HEAT CURED FOR FASTER DRYING.

MF-231 IS AN ALIPHATIC URETHANE WHICH EXHIBITS CLEAR TOUGH, FILM PROPERTIES WITH VERY SOFT HAND. THE VISCOSITY RANGE ALLOWS FOR CONTROLLED PENETRATION INTO FABRIC. WHEN PROPERLY CROSS-LINKED, EXCELLENT WASH RESISTANCE PROPERTIES ARE OBTAINED.

VISCOSITY: 30,000 CPS
SOLIDS: 38%
PH: 9.5 TO 10.5
FLASH POINT: NONE (TAG C.C.)
WT/GALLON: 8.7
CO-SOLVENT: 19.3% NMP
SURFACE TENSION: 61 DYNESS/CM
SOFTENING POINT: 330 DEGREES F
V.O.C.: 390 GRAMS/LITRE
FREEZE/THAW STABILITY: 5 CYCLES
100% MODULES: 630 PSI
TENSILE STRENGTH: 4500 PSI
ELONGATION AT BREAK: 575
SWARD ROCKER HARDNESS: 15

OK, strike 1.
I'll keep looking.

Anyone know about U-Pol's Raptor truck bed liner? Claims to be "flexible"...

WTF is that rubbery coating you find on park benches, tool grips and playgrounds???

Edit: Found it. Bummer. It's Plastisol, which according to our buddy Roy, has to be baked on (and has toxic solvents, according to other sources)...
http://www.belson.com/pppsb.htm
Thermoplastics?

 

[Tofudebeest]

OK, sorry to hog/hijack this thread...

Looks Like Line-X might serve both functions. It can be applied in any thickness (and color), which sure as hell sounds like it would accomplish the heat and sound deadening objectives of the butyl/aluminum skins...(and "100% solids with no V.O.C.’s or C.F.C.’s, LINE-X is also solvent free."

No, I am NOT a shill...

 

[philos1]

So is it okay to put it down over the toyota tar...it appears painted or something...I think I'm too lazy to pull all that crap up.

John

yes, It can go over factory dampening- I also used the second skin product and am more than pleased with it. I'd recommend it without hesitation.

 

[Rig of Mortis]

Plastisol is used as an ink with silk screening t-shirts, doesn't dry unless placed in an oven for a short period.

 

[Marc311]

I also went with Damplifier (regular, not pro). I put it over the tar in some places and others I didn't. If it is clean, it will stick fine. I generally avoided putting it over the tar as I think it was a case of diminishing returns. The added layer will definitely improve sound deadening, but not near the degree of improvement when placed on bare metal. In other words, if you have plenty then put it everywhere. But I would insure I had the areas without tar covered first and then cover the tar areas.


I am defnitely happy with the improvement. Not just when driving, but how much more solid the car feels when shutting doors, etc. It's not a cheap mod and takes a good amount of work, but you will definitely see results.

 

[gray]

Anyone have pics side by side of Damplifier Pro and regular, along with something else in the photo to get an idea how thick these are? Wondering how much difference you get, one compared to the other?

Over 20 years ago I put down double layers of foam and jute in my 60 when it was only a couple of months old. We didn't have the fancy stuff then, except for what we could get from JC Whitney. But even the low tech jute worked very well, much less road noise, gear whine, and heat transmitted up into the cabin.

I'm looking forward to getting some Damplifier installed.

 

[Tofudebeest]

More...

Hello
Thanks for your interest in Second Skin!

Bed liner can be applied on top of our Damplifier Pro product with no
problems. Many of our offroad customer do it this way.
They then cover the underside of the floor pan with our waterbased noise
coating Spectrum.
Yours will take 2 gallons to properly treat.

My only recommendation for an attractive option would be do a professional
bed liner like LineX or Rhino Liner. I would stay away from the DIY type of
bed liners. They are not even close to the same quality.

I hope that helps,
ANT
www.secondskinaudio.com

and this:

the Urethanes are tough, flexible coatings that can easily be colored by us here at QCM.
they can be applied by spray or rolling or brushing. MF-208 is thinner and easier to brush on or roll.
how do you intend to apply?

Regards
Roy Wheeldon

 

[chukardog]

the only thing I would consider if i were to take out my carpet would be vinyl. There are a few kits out there that mimic the carpet kit but are made of vinyl, cut to fit. Anything else looks shabby

 

[Tofudebeest]

Bedliner (professionally done or done with a high degree of skill) doesn't look shabby to me at all. Until I got Anthony's reply, I was under the impression that one could not apply a bedliner over Dynamat or Damplifier (etc.).

 

[jdhall3]

this is not that hard to do but here are some photos of my install none the less.

Getting down to work.

Thought I would try the 1/2 inch thick Dynaliner..this stuff is thick

 

[jdhall3]

 

[jdhall3]

 

[Rig of Mortis]

Ah memories...

Great that you took so many photographs, how was your first drive?