stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #41
Welded in new all new stainless on three sides of the windshield frame. The new windshield and gasket still fit perfectly after all that work.
Some info saved (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter stevebradford
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #43
Beware of the extremely flammable headliner and filler fluff under it. If you get within two feet of it with and heat, It goes up real quick!
I’m probably going to copy what this guy did for a headliner as mine was especially not saveable after.
Hj61 sahara overhaul
Dave dropped round late last night on his way through to NSW. I can now understand why he is now hesitant to take it bush, the thing is concourse looks a million bucks. I did have a pic to put up for ya but 11pm and no flash means im better off making you look at the black screen!!!! So here...
forum.ih8mud.com
Am I a full on redneck if I kinda like this motor mount?
Last edited:
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #45
Toyota full float rear axle hub nut tripod tool. Part number 09509-25011
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #46
Starter contacts and plunger part numbers for a gear reduction starter 78-89 ish
awesome work!
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #48
Landcruiser frame plugs.
cps432
SILVER Star
Whoa.... who knew?
Scro
SILVER Star
How many frame plugs are needed for a 60/62 frame?
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #51
The frame of my 85 takes 6 of them. There’s also one more larger rectangular hole on each side that is just too large to fit these plugs. Haven’t found a part for that one yet.
Split transfer case manual 4wheel drive selector shaft boot.
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #52
Time for a little upgrade on the 40 series. It came with this ugly channel bumper that I ran for 15 years, it’s time.
I thought I would keep the channel, free metal and I’m cheepish. The plan is to rework the bumper so that hopefully it doesn’t look so much like a channel bumper anymore. Also instead of a mounted winch have a receiver with power for a removable winch. Yeah yeah approach angles, slogging threw mud.. I don’t need to hear it. My trucks get used more like farm equipment than crazy off-roaders. To me storing the winch inside out of the weather and being able to use it on my trailer and other truck as well seems more beneficial.
I might shamelessly copy this bar that I think might suit it nicely.
I thought I would keep the channel, free metal and I’m cheepish. The plan is to rework the bumper so that hopefully it doesn’t look so much like a channel bumper anymore. Also instead of a mounted winch have a receiver with power for a removable winch. Yeah yeah approach angles, slogging threw mud.. I don’t need to hear it. My trucks get used more like farm equipment than crazy off-roaders. To me storing the winch inside out of the weather and being able to use it on my trailer and other truck as well seems more beneficial.
I might shamelessly copy this bar that I think might suit it nicely.
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #53
Cruiser udders!
I always thought the Toyota spring plates were silly. Here is my solution for cleaning up those rock snaggers.
before/after
Cleans it up nicely. Here they are on a 60 series with the shock attachment.
Kept them low enough to leave the two important leaf springs exposed so cracks could be easily observed. At the same time high enough the one inch Ubolt nuts don’t hang below the bottom of the saddle.
Time to test!
I always thought the Toyota spring plates were silly. Here is my solution for cleaning up those rock snaggers.
before/after
Cleans it up nicely. Here they are on a 60 series with the shock attachment.
Kept them low enough to leave the two important leaf springs exposed so cracks could be easily observed. At the same time high enough the one inch Ubolt nuts don’t hang below the bottom of the saddle.
Time to test!
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #54
I can’t take credit for this, The unofficial Mud buyers guide but it’s hilariously correct!
Mines no stranger to rust/repair
Mines no stranger to rust/repair
Last edited:
Beautiful work. Tig?
I'm really wanting to get a Tig setup so I can do some of my own body work on my 62. I've got experience welding stainless and inconel (obviously not relatable to busy work there) and want to build up some sheet metal skills
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #56
Thanks!
I wish I knew Tig.
That was my mig setup with a trimix gas shield and solid core wire. It seems to work well for body work. The gas shield keeps the spatter down also helps with keeping the heat down, not that you can ever run a continuous weld on body work unless you don’t care about warped metal. Some settings on a Tig setup might help with that?
Last edited:
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #57
Cannibal cruiser, bj60 consuming a bj42
you used a mig to weld stainless to sheet metal, interesting.
not the first thing I learned today; but certainly the most interesting potential regarding welding.
not the first thing I learned today; but certainly the most interesting potential regarding welding.
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #59
Idler power steering pulley developed a chirp on my recent trip. It’s a nice and easy bearing swap bearings size is common and stocked locally at western equipment for 17$
The bearing cage was in bad shape.
Pulled all mine and found this is one part Toyota changed over the years.
The bearing cage was in bad shape.
Pulled all mine and found this is one part Toyota changed over the years.
Last edited:
stevebradford
In the shop
- Thread starter
- #60
Vacuum to manual tcase
If you don’t want to go to the expense of buying a manual front half of the tcase there’s a way I been converting that front to a manual tcase.
All you need for parts if your handy with a drill/tap and grinder is:
Spring
Detent ball bearing 3/8
3/8 brass plug
4wd selector seal/boot
And the shifter linkage arm for a manual
Split the case and take the vacuum assembly off remove the selector shaft and drill out the factory cast recessed spot shown in the picture below for a detent cap, spring and ball. They all have the casting like they all were meant to be manual.
Tap the hole for a detent cap I used a brass 3/8 plug and tap. You need to find an appropriate ball bearing and spring I believe the ball bearing I used was 3/8. Next the selector shaft is correct but lacking the detent to lock it into 4wheel. Mark the shaft locked and unlocked threw the new detent hole then remove and carve a grove into the shaft marked locked and unlocked with a grinder. There’s already a grove in the shaft for the 4wheel drive switch to use for depth and shape reference.
Course you could also buy all the detent and the correct selector shaft parts to swap it over from Toyota.
You will need the shifter boot and seal for for the front nose of the Tcase
Split case 4 wheel drive selector shaft seal 90311-22005
Split case 4 wheel drive selector shaft boot 36318-60020
Lastly you will need to find the manual tcase shift arm which i did or weld and extension onto it to catch the selector shaft that already comes with the correct linkage catch even though it’s a vacuum case.
If you don’t want to go to the expense of buying a manual front half of the tcase there’s a way I been converting that front to a manual tcase.
All you need for parts if your handy with a drill/tap and grinder is:
Spring
Detent ball bearing 3/8
3/8 brass plug
4wd selector seal/boot
And the shifter linkage arm for a manual
Split the case and take the vacuum assembly off remove the selector shaft and drill out the factory cast recessed spot shown in the picture below for a detent cap, spring and ball. They all have the casting like they all were meant to be manual.
Tap the hole for a detent cap I used a brass 3/8 plug and tap. You need to find an appropriate ball bearing and spring I believe the ball bearing I used was 3/8. Next the selector shaft is correct but lacking the detent to lock it into 4wheel. Mark the shaft locked and unlocked threw the new detent hole then remove and carve a grove into the shaft marked locked and unlocked with a grinder. There’s already a grove in the shaft for the 4wheel drive switch to use for depth and shape reference.
Course you could also buy all the detent and the correct selector shaft parts to swap it over from Toyota.
You will need the shifter boot and seal for for the front nose of the Tcase
Split case 4 wheel drive selector shaft seal 90311-22005
Split case 4 wheel drive selector shaft boot 36318-60020
Lastly you will need to find the manual tcase shift arm which i did or weld and extension onto it to catch the selector shaft that already comes with the correct linkage catch even though it’s a vacuum case.
Last edited:
