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[rawrt]

You guys weren't kidding about spending other peoples money. $50 for an oil pan gasket. $30 for the front seal. $95 for the rear seal. $80 for a water pump and gasket. $40 on 2 gaskets to cap off the EGR nonsense.

Just saw last night my intake manifold has the infamous crack. The manifold for the "junk" engine looks perfect.
Now add a Remflex gasket set and maybe hardware. That's if its flat....
Still need to send my carb in to Jim C for an overhaul and have the distributor rebuilt and tweaked for the de-smog.

thanks?

 

[rawrt]

I made an order with City Racer for the distributor and carb for desmogging. Add on a few little things and I spent a few more $$.
The front and rear seals (OEM) are in and the oil pan is back on with a new OEM gasket. The trick to remove the rear cap to get the rear seal in worked slick. I had a local radiator repair shop straighten and braze up my oil cooler. Charged me $25

Researching pilot bearings now. OSS had some good intel on 6202ZE's and 5202Z, depending how chewed up your shaft is. Mine looks good so Im going with an 6202ZE. Getting the bearing out tonight so burgers and brats might be on the menu............
Ill check how well it fits before pressing it in.

 

[OSS]

If you’re going to use the standard size pilot bearing, buy it directly from Toyota. It isn’t a shielded bearing nor a sealed bearing — it’s different and the big bearing manufactures don’t sell it directly to the public. It’s the best choice.

 

[rawrt]

If you’re going to use the standard size pilot bearing, buy it directly from Toyota. It isn’t a shielded bearing nor a sealed bearing — it’s different and the big bearing manufactures don’t sell it directly to the public. It’s the best choice.

Is this the bearing? Maybe a cheap stock photo but it looks sealed.

 

[OSS]

Is this the bearing? Maybe a cheap stock photo but it looks sealed.
View attachment 3576870

Yes that’s the correct bearing. It is shielded and sealed by a plastic cap. The mainstream shielded bearings have metal caps that allow dirt in, and the mainstream sealed bearings have a high friction rubber seal that imparts too much drag on the bearing.
The Toyota bearing is the best of both designs.

 

[rawrt]

Sarah lee wheat bread did the trick. The hardest part was keeping my dog away from the crumbs. Chinese bearing?

-The fly wheel is at machine shop. No, not the one that still has my parts. I wont be using them ever again.
-Tearing off the manifold and installing the heat riser plate from CruiserTeq. Plate and both gaskets are on order.
-Shopping exhaust manifold gaskets. Remflex is $75 after shipping, Rock Auto is $15 for a Fel Pro or shop local for a Fel Pro. I have not priced a Toyota yet.
-The front seal and gasket for the trans should be here today.
-Any recommendations on clutches besides Toyota?

 

[g-man]

If you are going to take your manifolds apart, check out this thread. esp pages 7-9. Lots of good info and things to consider.

Can we make a exhaust/intake manifold sticky?

Hi everyone, The exhaust manifold is leaking on my 87 fj-60 and it needs to be resealed/repaired. I have searched many of the threads here and there seems to be conflicting ideas as to how to fix it. So can we make the ultimate exhaust/intake manifold thread (sticky) where every idea is...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Spike Strip]

For a clutch, the OEM Aisin is Heavy Duty and can last 100k miles or more, depending on your left and right feet. Same as what comes in Toyota box.

Rockauto has the CKT-032 kit, but it comes with a throw out bearing and pilot that are not as robust as the Toyota boxed. Usually you can find just the pressure plate and disc, then get the pilot and throw out from Toyota or MUD vendor.

 

[rawrt]

Been slowly spending money. Changed the fluids in everything and saw a toasted brake line going from the front to the rear passenger tire. According to Toyota this is obsolete. Its rusted out right at the "47323". Did the part numbers change or am I going to be bending and flaring my own?

 

[rawrt]

Going through sandwich bags for clutch hardware. found the fork and one hub clip. Also found the hanger and spring.
I cannot find the "release fork ball" or the boot.
Trying to track down the correct hardware for attaching the fenders/inner wheel wells. I've checked a few websites but unable to find anything. I did find a kit for the rubber grommets and spacers for the core support.

Does anyone have a link to fastening the fenders with the correct hardware?

 

[rawrt]

Im getting ready to put an engine in, hopefully this weekend. This is our first summer with 2 kids in sports...wrenching has been slower than expected.

Have any tips on wrestling it in?
What is the correct orientation of the motor mounts? A picture would be great

 

[DrRock]

Im getting ready to put an engine in, hopefully this weekend. This is our first summer with 2 kids in sports...wrenching has been slower than expected.

Have any tips on wrestling it in?
What is the correct orientation of the motor mounts? A picture would be great

Hey There, I just put my engine in a few months back and documented the engine install in the thread linked below. There are also pictures of the engine mounts that are hopefully detailed enough to get you the information you need. Good luck! Install was super easy, just angle the whole assy down like I did, get it lowered onto the front mounts then move to the rear and jack up the rear to install the crossmember. Ping me if you need any advice.

It has begun: 1985 Powerplant and Drivetrain resto mod

Hello All, It’s been a while. I’ve been collecting parts, bolts, nuts, engine, transmission etc and am now on the upswing. Got the transmission and engine marriage completed today and got the lump back home in he truck. Want to say thanks to @cruiseroutfit @FJ60Cam @Cruiser Cult @TRAIL TAILOR...

forum.ih8mud.com

Cheers, James

 

[rawrt]

Hey There, I just put my engine in a few months back and documented the engine install in the thread linked below. There are also pictures of the engine mounts that are hopefully detailed enough to get you the information you need. Good luck! Install was super easy, just angle the whole assy down like I did, get it lowered onto the front mounts then move to the rear and jack up the rear to install the crossmember. Ping me if you need any advice.

It has begun: 1985 Powerplant and Drivetrain resto mod

Hello All, It’s been a while. I’ve been collecting parts, bolts, nuts, engine, transmission etc and am now on the upswing. Got the transmission and engine marriage completed today and got the lump back home in he truck. Want to say thanks to @cruiseroutfit @FJ60Cam @Cruiser Cult @TRAIL TAILOR...

forum.ih8mud.com

Cheers, James

Thanks, I am also in need of those bolts you mentioned in your post. Glad I have the part number. Only about 300 more bolts to go

 

[rawrt]

The trans is still in the truck. The manual shows just the throw out bearing then you have to slide the fork in through the boot and deal with the clips?
Or can I leave the assembly in the bellhousing and just get the bearing started on the trans when I put it in? Looking for the easier way.

 

[rawrt]

I think I figured out my own question. The fork was bouncing around because my new slave cylinder wasn't bolted on.

 

[rawrt]

It's in. We had to ditch the taller blocks due to my harbor freight cherry picker leaking oil and not getting full extension. Throw out bearing lined up easy and everything slid into place pretty well with help from another floor jack. The 3/8" chain kissed the fire wall a few times and it looks like the PO bent that lip a little bit.
Bolted up the bellhousing to the trans and bolted the motor mounts. The ground from the frame to the starter is hooked up. I will be posting pics for "where does this go?" soon

 

[rawrt]

I got my parts back from the machine shop yesterday. After 8 months you can see the progress they made. He managed to tell me the crank is 0.010" under and the block is at 0.030" over. They didn't hot tank anything or check for cracks, which is the only reason I brought them in.
He also informed me that everything should have a 350 in it. Thanks bud

I will not say the name of the machine shop but if you are in the Minneapolis area and want to know.. send me a message.

 

[rawrt]

*update*
I started on plumbing this weekend. We do not have smog stuff here in Minnesota and the PO started to desmog and had plans for installing a Weber. Here is where I'm at...
I've been reading the how to desmog file and printed it out. I've been checking off stuff as I go.
The carb is from City Racer part number 21100-61012. It only has the timing advance? Run this to the distributor and plug the other port?

I do not plan on running the HAC. I am going by the directions and incorporating the two VCV's. I have the one under the air cleaner and mounting the other on the drivers side fender. I do have the 3 port gas filter and running one line to the VCV under the air cleaner. I have the other 2 plugged. I also have the BVSV #1 installed but I

The drivers side is what Id like to learn more about. I have all sorts of vacuum lines dangling. One hard line under the brake booster that I think goes to the charcoal cannister. I don't remember is this "purge" I only have the one port on the base of the carb. Do I plug everything?

This is why there is a Chevy wrench sitting by the windshield. "I help you" "Dad, I help you" He cleaned the wheels and plucked the rocks out of the treads. Free of charge.

Looks much better with the fenders on. They went on pretty easy by myself. I soaked the hardware and sprayed everything I could with Kroil before I started.

 

[rawrt]

I do have another stock distributor ill send out to Jim if I have issues.

 

[rawrt]

It's a runner. If I knew how to upload a video I would. It sure sounds like a tractor engine.

The oil gauge is smoked I think. I tried 2 different sending units and the needle didn't budge. I'm going to hook up an oil pressure gauge tonight and see where I am at. First I need to clean up the rat turds and shells that came flying out of the tailpipe.