Some assembly required (4 Viewers)

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rawrt

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 18, 2023
Threads
2
Messages
20
Location
Minnesota
I've been lurking on here and I decided to join up.
I have a 1984 that the PO tore apart and 99% kept in boxes or bags. They block, crank, and head are at a local machine shop getting verified for a rebuild or if they are boat anchors. I did find a burnt valve with the top end stuff. Four valve springs are collapsed. I found 2 sets of lifters and 2 rocker assemblies. While I am waiting to hear back from the shop, I'm doing my best to locate and name the parts I have. I cant believe the mess of smog stuff.
At the moment, I do NOT want to do a V8 swap. This is more of an education deal on rebuilding and I'm aware it wont be cheap. I have the FSM on the 2F and have the chassis and body manual on the way.

Thank you in advance for the help!

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If you think of this project as a challenging puzzle, then it will be fun. People buy puzzles to solve for entertainment.
But if you get in the mind-set that all you want is to get it done, it’ll likely turn into a frustrating hate-mission.
The choice is yours…. ;)
 
welcome into this den of mechanical mischief n mayhem. yup, it's a good place to be n most are willing to spend your money :flipoff2: if you've been paying attention during your lurking, you'll know what the green flip off means:hillbilly:
@OSS speaks truth
If you think of this project as a challenging puzzle, then it will be fun. People buy puzzles to solve for entertainment.
But if you get in the mind-set that all you want is to get it done, it’ll likely turn into a frustrating hate-mission.
The choice is yours…. ;)
 
Welcome to the Mudness! It’s nice to see a fellow Minnesotan taking up the challenge (I no longer live in Miinysnowta, too flat :hillbilly:).

:cheers:
 
Need more pics! Any story from the PO why they took it apart? Sounds like they knew the engine was having issues if there are duplicate parts.
 
I have no idea on the history. The outfit I purchased it from said it had 105K on it when I did the title work. The tabs are from 2007 and found an insurance card from 2005 in the glovebox.
It looks to be out of a barn maybe. A little dusty with the stench of rodents. Vice Grip could probably describe the smell better than me.

I cant find the rest of the exhaust valves. All 12 of the push rods have a blue color on the cup end. One has a small crack. The blueing does come off with some scotch-brite. Along with the toasted springs maybe it had an oil issue? Bad oil? No oil?

While reading my book last night I see I'm missing some hardware. It may be in a box still. The 3 different flavors of bolts that keep the rocker assembly in place/mount the valve cover to. Of course they are obsolete

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Welcome to the Mudness! It’s nice to see a fellow Minnesotan taking up the challenge (I no longer live in Miinysnowta, too flat :hillbilly:).

:cheers:
Thank You. No snow on the ground. Its Looking like a brown Christmas. It looks like I wont be doing much fishing over New Years either.
 
Thank You. No snow on the ground. Its Looking like a brown Christmas. It looks like I wont be doing much fishing over New Years either.
The memories of playing golf at Rich Acres on December 12 will always be hilarious! It was torn up to make another runway at MSP airport.
 
Definitely looks like it sat for a good while. As for the smell I’m getting a newspaper that’s been soaked in anchovies and left in the crockpot on high. I might be a little off there though lol. What’s a guys next steps?
 
Added a piece to the puzzle.
A used engine from another 1984. Compression checked out fine before going on the stand.
I spent a night scrapping the gunk off and taking note of what's needed.

It looks clean under the valve cover. The exhausts are snug at about 0.014 cold

Here is my list:
-Adjust valves (at least twice, just to get the feel)
-Plug the air ports (M14-1.5) ? Qty 6. How well do these come out? I have Kroil on them now
-Plug the thermostat housing (3/8-19) ? Qty 2
-Remove smog pump and install pulley
-Maybe replace the water pump while its easy and no coolant in it
-Remove oil plug by #5, (M8-1.25) ? I need to read more into this one

Let me know what else is recommended

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Check casting/freeze plugs while you can get to them easily.
 
Not engine-related, but definitely add resealing your drip rail to the list. Looks like the factory sealant is cracked, which will allow moisture to seep in under the roof skin. The roof and other areas will start to rust from the inside out.
 
*** REAR MAIN SEAL ***

Use Toyota or OEM

Verify the Oil Galley Plug has been fixed/replaced with a threaded plug.

At this point it would really benefit you to get, at minimum, a silver-star subscription so you can post unlimited pictures and eliminate pop-ups. You're gonna need to be posting many more.

What happened to the engine at the machine shop?
 
Upgraded to silver
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-The oil galley plug looks to be original. I need to clean it up more tonight and verify.

Still no word on the engine at the machine shop. I called last week and left a VM but being the Holiday season they might have shut down. I might bring a flywheel over for an excuse to see what's going on. Our family has used them on various engine projects without an issue.

I started adding up machine work and parts to rebuild that other 2F and thought I better start shopping for a complete engine. There are some parts that I will rob from the basket case. The carb, the thermostat housing, some vacuum stuff....
Once I'm up and running ill look to sell the smog stuff.

thanks for the pointers so far
 
FWIW, this head shot looks like the engine was reasonably well-maintained. 2Fs are getting hard to find in any condition. If compression is good, no reason not to run it with an easy re-seal, while everything is accessible.

Definitely replace water pump and Fan Clutch with OEM Aisin (cheap on Rock Auto).

Truck looks good for a Rust Belt vehicle (if that's where she's from...)

Good luck! Nice project!

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Upgraded to silver
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-The oil galley plug looks to be original. I need to clean it up more tonight and verify.

Still no word on the engine at the machine shop. I called last week and left a VM but being the Holiday season they might have shut down. I might bring a flywheel over for an excuse to see what's going on. Our family has used them on various engine projects without an issue.

I started adding up machine work and parts to rebuild that other 2F and thought I better start shopping for a complete engine. There are some parts that I will rob from the basket case. The carb, the thermostat housing, some vacuum stuff....
Once I'm up and running ill look to sell the smog stuff.

thanks for the pointers so far
I hit the factory plug with an automatic center punch and drilled a pilot hole. I used a 2” wood screw and screwed it in until I saw it from the hole left from removing the head bolt.
Used a need nose style vise grip and tapped on it with a small ball peen.
Ran a 1/16” NPT as straight as possible while visualizing the direction of the oil gallery from looking down from above.
I had an old shotgun cleaning rod down the bolt hole with a rag on it…like cleaning a barrel, just smaller. Cleaned the threads with brake cleaner and compressed air, blowing it out, not inwards. Brushed on permatex aviation and snugged up the plug

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The person that pulled the engine may have dropped it on some ill placed wood blocks and smashed the bottom tube on the oil cooler. I have a spare from the junk engine but its pretty rusty. Hopefully a radiator place can fix me up. I don't want to spend $300 on a new one.

The front seal is NOK brand. Did they use NOK seals or was this replaced once before?

The machine shop gave me the run around yesterday. They said they have a few Toyotas they are going to start this week. I'm tempted to just go pick everything up with a buddy and tell them where to stick it.

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I would absolutely run with the new 'used engine' and just go pick up your stuff from the machine shop and stash it away. Many used 2Fs have many, many miles left in them, and a rebuild is likely to be a lot sketchier.
 

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