Solar Converter - Final Setup.

[Tim-HJ61]

??There's a factory converter??
Not heard of this one before. Now I'll have to contort my arm around the back of the dash, probably scratching myself on the aircond and other sharp things just to see it for myself.....

 

[Wherlwind]

I've figured out the speaker wiring and made a diagram of the factory harness...but it's in my tool box at G&S's shop.

QUOTE]

Hi Stone,
Would you be able to post that schematic? I'm having the same problem trying to figure out the factory stereo wiring.It doesn't match the FSM.
Thanks, Pete

 

[HZJ60 Guy]

Hey Stoney, what are you using for panels?

 

[Malahki]

I would like to bring this thread alive and ask the question, how big of a 12v load could I draw the low side battery while using the Solar converter in battery equalizer mode? Is it possible to run a 12V winch using this set up?

 

[smcruisin]

BJ71,
I think (correct me if I'm wrong) that the equalizer mode is intended to adjust for small differences due to charging irregularities between batteries. A 12V winch can draw 400-500 amps... The equalizer mode was not intended for loads this big.

The best way to run a winch on a 24V truck is to just get a 24V winch motor.

 

[Stone]

Even though I never tried it, I would tend to agree with what smcruisin said. If you use your 12V from a lowside tap for extended periods, I'm not sure if the Solar Converter will be able to catch up and refresh that battery while the truck is running and supplying voltage to your battery bank.

I don't know...maybe someone else has actually tried this. I would personally go with a 24V winch. They're available commonly enough. Heck, maybe someone's even selling their OEM JDM one.

 

[Tim-HJ61]

So it's not an issue of the voltage equaliser not being able to 'cope' with the demand placed on it by heavy draw from the low battery, it is simply a matter of time running the equaliser to allow it to do it's job.

Therefore, if you have a 50A equaliser it will recover the low battery and balance the high and the low battery quicker than 10A.

IMHO, drawing a heavy load short term from the low battery and then rebalancing the batteries is specifically what these devices are for. As well as balancing a small load draw - it's simply a matter of time that you have to be aware of.

In my comments, I am assuming the Solar Convertor you guys use perform essentially the same function as a Redarc Charge Equaliser available in Australia and I have fitted to my 24v Landcruiser. I run a PTO winch BTW so have no real world experience of running electric winches, but I certainly use my Redarc extensively when camping and make a heavy draw on the low batteries - two in parallel.

Tim - long time no contribute

 

[70sguy]

Basically yes. But it all gets silly because you will likely find that the cost of a good quality high amp Equalizer will exceed the cost of converting the winch to 24v motor and Solenoids.
I have converted many of the good old 12v 8274s to 24v using new Prestolite 24v winch motor $185 and cont duty 24v solenoids at about $20 each and a case of beer to machine down and keyway the armature shaft.

 

[Stone]

Sheldon brings up an excellent point...

Also, a 24V winch draws much less amperage than an equivalent 12V winch. If I already have a 24V truck to begin with, I would lean towards taking full advantage of that system...

 

[colin 4]

my dad wired mine up with a 24v relay so that it only comes on with accesories or full ignition. that way it's not load balencing when you're not driving it. However an issue I have had greg, is that the little pot screw that sets your load balance will over time, especially with a diesel, change position enough to cause a battery imbalance. I have to open mine up and tweak it every 3 months or so. If I let it go too far it will not start, especially in cold, and can even pop the 15 amp fuse. Any thoughts as to how to make that little adustment screw stay where I put it? It's gonna strand my good woman one of these times, and she already has a love/hate relationship with good 'ol Joab.

 

[Greg_B]

The POT will float a bit, but should not be drastic. Set it at middle value and put a dab of silicone on it. track it, shoot me an email.

hth's

gb

 

[colin 4]

yeah i have thought about that, but I guess I'm reluctant b/c that inhibits future adjustment. but it could work...

 

[Diesel42]

Hello Stone, i've looked through this entire read and can't for the life of me see the schematic anywhere. I've been running my in convert mode for a couple years now and i think i'm ready to tackle your fix. Thanks

 

[Stone]

Hello Stone, i've looked through this entire read and can't for the life of me see the schematic anywhere. I've been running my in convert mode for a couple years now and i think i'm ready to tackle your fix. Thanks

Hey...sent you an email this morning, and I haven't heard back. Shoot me an email...that way I can reply and attach the schematic. Cheers.

 

[Diesel42]

Got it, thanks

 

[Sooke]

This has been an excellent thread. I have had my solar converter hooked up in equalize mode for the past couple years (previous owner) and have experienced being left with equalized (dead) batteries after having to park the truck for a few days (cold weather only). A huge thank you to Stone and Greg_B for sharing their simplified solutions to overcome this problem. I too will be using a relay to switch back and forth.

Greg_B Did you find any problems with that particular set up without a diode in place?

Thanks

Cody

 

[OkiGoose]

Reviving a dead thread I know, but at least I used the search function!

Would this apply to the HDJ80 series? I guess I'm having a hard time understanding how the system is 24v with two 12v batteries. I understand that the main battery sees 24v at start up, no problem there. However when we talk about winches, stereos, etc it seems you'd have to run off the secondary battery for a 12v lead. If I understand correctly, this is too much draw and thus the solar converter/load balancer. I've also read on the forum the 80 series would have been 12v everywhere except the starter (which can be changed over) and so that makes me think I won't have these issues. Sorry for being new, I'm American.

 

[Greg_B]

@Sooke I missed this when you posted so way late response. I have not noticed any issues to date with it hooked up this way.

@OkiGoose You have surmised correctly that you don't have to worry about this. A 24v-12v converter is only needed on trucks that are 24V all the time. Many (but not all) diesel LandCruisers that came into Canada during the late 1970's and into the 1980's are 24V so if we have wanted to run any 12V items best to install a converter. Same for the JDM imports like BJ74 and HJ61 (full 24V).

The HDJ80 has a series/parallel switch so the starter receives 24V to start. The rest of your truck is 12V.

Here is a post on Mud about your system that has some excellent information: HDJ81 Stock Dual Battery Questions

If you're interested, here is a primer of series and parallel: BatteryStuff Articles | Understanding Series and Parallel Battery Configurations

hth's
gb

 

[OkiGoose]

@Sooke I missed this when you posted so way late response. I have not noticed any issues to date with it hooked up this way.

@OkiGoose You have surmised correctly that you don't have to worry about this. A 24v-12v converter is only needed on trucks that are 24V all the time. Many (but not all) diesel LandCruisers that came into Canada during the late 1970's and into the 1980's are 24V so if we have wanted to run any 12V items best to install a converter. Same for the JDM imports like BJ74 and HJ61 (full 24V).

The HDJ80 has a series/parallel switch so the starter receives 24V to start. The rest of your truck is 12V.

Here is a post on Mud about your system that has some excellent information: HDJ81 Stock Dual Battery Questions

If you're interested, here is a primer of series and parallel: BatteryStuff Articles | Understanding Series and Parallel Battery Configurations

hth's
gb

Thanks! I really love this forum. Y'all actually want to help and have real information. Makes me very optimistic for the future.

 

[Sooke]

@Sooke I missed this when you posted so way late response. I have not noticed any issues to date with it hooked up this way.

@OkiGoose You have surmised correctly that you don't have to worry about this. A 24v-12v converter is only needed on trucks that are 24V all the time. Many (but not all) diesel LandCruisers that came into Canada during the late 1970's and into the 1980's are 24V so if we have wanted to run any 12V items best to install a converter. Same for the JDM imports like BJ74 and HJ61 (full 24V).

The HDJ80 has a series/parallel switch so the starter receives 24V to start. The rest of your truck is 12V.

Here is a post on Mud about your system that has some excellent information: HDJ81 Stock Dual Battery Questions

If you're interested, here is a primer of series and parallel: BatteryStuff Articles | Understanding Series and Parallel Battery Configurations

hth's
gb

Thanks GB! Better late than never..ha ha
I have been running mine for the past year on a relay to switch between modes without problem. Thanks again for your excellent information and expertise.
Cody