Solar Converter - Final Setup.

[Canuck]

If you're not running a heavy load, like more than 10 to 15 amps, would a load balancing set-up be required? The only 12V devices I want to run are the car stereo and an alarm system. Both would of course require a constant 12V supply.

How about something like this device that has a provision for a low current output already designed in?

http://www.powerstream.com/dc1-ap-notes.htm

 

[Stone]

Kevin: Yup, a relay would work for sure. I try to minimize the number of relays that I have in my truck, simply because they're just another electrical gadget to go wrong. But if you have a high quality 24v relay, why not?

Beauh: Running a CD player and an alarm system from the Solar Converter in Convert mode is no problem at all. The two devices won't be on at the same time anyway. If you go Load Balance, just remember that if you leave your truck parked for a long period of time, and there is even a slight imbalance in your batteries, that you will probably come back to a couple of drawn fown batteries that won't start your truck.

Canuck: Load balancing won't be needed for light loads like the ones that you require. It's the simplest and most reliable way of getting 12v power from your Solar Converter.

 

[beauh]

thanks Stone.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Nice read.

Clean install, I have been recently using crimp fittings less the plastic shielding. What I have been purchasing is the none covered units then shrink tubing it after, giving a second way to hold the connection together.

I use to crimp and solder, the argument for not doing this by one person was heating the wire and making it brittle??

Anyways from more of a production like standpoint like the factory did, I use this method of using a high quality crimping tool and bare connectors with shrink tube.

Sorry for the highjack.

Rob

 

[Greg_B]

I'm still a solder and shrink tubing guy. Will crimp fit in a pinch...

We just got new price points on the Solar Converter, and are passing on the savings:https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=605269#post605269 Post #17.

I also still say:

"If you want plug and play then forget about it...hook it up in 24V to 12V only."

"If you want to tinker, are doing your own install, and understand the system, then tinker to your hearts delight!"

hth's

gb

 

[tlcruiserman]

hey guys, thanks for the info/advice. I think what I'll do is run the Solar in "balance" mode and tap off the one battery for my CD player and amp. Is that a good idea? or should I use it in convert mode for my CD and amp? (max 20amp draw).

If you plan on running in balance mode and the batteries are to far off on being charged it will blow the fuse on the solar converter. I would suggest you get a battery charger and charge up the weak battery all the way, then top off the other one with the charger then you should be all set. I run my converters in convert mode, and use a switch if I am not going to drive it for a while so it does not drain the batteries.

Cheers,

Michael

 

[Dogsled]

Very cool!

Elegant solution to a common problem. I've had multiple leave in driveway experiences even with just a few nights in the cold (cold being -40 and below!) up here, and this seems like the trick. I may however mount the switch in the cab...

 

[Stone]

Welcome to the board, Larry!

 

[Greg_B]

Elegant solution to a common problem. I've had multiple leave in driveway experiences even with just a few nights in the cold (cold being -40 and below!) up here, and this seems like the trick. I may however mount the switch in the cab...

Hello Larry...

Welcome!

gb

 

[Dogsled]

Gee, thanks, guys! Nice to be welcomed!

 

[Canuck]

I have a 6-gang fuseblock that uses the regular automotive ATC fuses in my passenger side kick panel. I've used up 5 slots already...waiting for my Hella 8-gang to arrive. I don't really have a link to the whole setup, just ask any questions you may have. Cheers.

Hey Stone, how did you mount the fuse box in the passenger kick panel and where did you buy the 6-gang fuseblock?

 

[Stone]

Hey Stone, how did you mount the fuse box in the passenger kick panel and where did you buy the 6-gang fuseblock?

Just screwed it into the sheet metal behind the kcik panel and routed the wires behind it. I'm sure there are probably better places to mount it, and it's easy enough to make a bracket for it...someone will eventually make a suggestion. The fuse block brand is Cole Hersee and is available in a larger size than a 6-gang. I bought mine from Lordco for around $23 CAD + taxes.

The Hella fusebox is interesting. It is cheaper and is easily adaptable to whatever size you want. It also looks kind of OEM with a clear splash resistant clear cover. The only thing I don't like it that you have to solder the wire that supplies the box and also solder short leads coming from the fused locations that you can splice to later. But it has potential for being a cleaner install.

 

[Canuck]

Thanks for the reply Stone. Where did you order the Hella box from. I looked on their website but can't find any info or even part numbers. I wouldn't need an 8 gang, probably only a 6 if they make that.

 

[Stone]

Also from Lordco.

Fourth link from the bottom of the list on the left side of the page:

http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_usa/ProductsServices/PDF/ElecProd2.pdf

 

[Canuck]

Cool, thanks!

 

[Canuck]

Picked up my Solar Convertor this week from Greg_B (thanks again Greg ) and have to get going with the install. Those of you that have these mounted, did you run the 12V wire into the cab through an existing hole or did you make a new one?

 

[beauh]

i found an awesome spot for my solar. right under the glove box. bolt it upside down in to the bottom of the glove box. You can run the wires into the same hole in the firewall as the a/c condensation tube.

 

[Greg_B]

Hey Stone, correct me if I'm wrong in my thinking on this, but there is something that has been sort of bugging me since i read this post a while ago: instead of using a manual switch like you did, couldn't a person instead use a relay and hook the wire up to the normally open leads like you did with the switch and then when you turned the key to the run position, it would close the relay and complete that circuit, switching over to battery equalization instead of 12 volt conversion. This would just require one extra wire off the ignition on circuit to switch the relay. I would use 24 v to avoid any possible goofyness when switching the 12 v source.

That way one wouldn't have to remember to switch the switch to equalization when driving or back off when not using the vehicle for a long duration. Just a thought, but would like someone else's opinion on this.

-Kevin

I did just this yesterday, and will be running it for the winter to test it out.

All my 12V needs are fed from a 12V fusebox in the cab, direct from the converter.

I tapped off the 12V feed line, in the engine bay, routed this to a 24V relay, then returned from the relay to the positive pole on the lowside battery. The relay is tripped from the power supply box underhood, using the ignition connection.

I could not find a HD 24V relay that had a diode, so while I do not anticipate any issues...we will see.

Relay #87113. Pg 18 of this PDF: http://www.hella.com/produktion/HellaPortal/WebSite/Internet_usa/ProductsServices/PDF/ElecProd1.pdf

hth's

gb

 

[curious1]

Have any of you guys used the converter to do the opposite? I need it to go from 12V to 24 volts. If I read the instructions correctly it does not equalize the batteries in this mode. Is this true? I actually don't need to equalize my batteries because I am using a painless dual battery isolator. I need the converter to supply 24V to my glow timer, glow screen, tach and turbo lights. I think that it will not have enough amperage. I have an FJ60 in the states that I installed a 12HT motor into. The crusier is 12 Volts but the engine acessories are 24 volt.

 

[Greg_B]

Have any of you guys used the converter to do the opposite? I need it to go from 12V to 24 volts. If I read the instructions correctly it does not equalize the batteries in this mode. Is this true? I actually don't need to equalize my batteries because I am using a painless dual battery isolator. I need the converter to supply 24V to my glow timer, glow screen, tach and turbo lights. I think that it will not have enough amperage. I have an FJ60 in the states that I installed a 12HT motor into. The crusier is 12 Volts but the engine acessories are 24 volt.

Maybe contact Stickboy of this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=12794

He installed a 24V 13BT into a FJ60, and is using a Solar Converter to supply the vehicle with it's 12V needs.

hth's

gb