Soft Tailgate upgrade (1 Viewer)

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So I tried the fit test the cable and it does get hung up when closing. When looking at the design of the old cable it did not hit the striker because the cable end was like a teardrop and it had more a curved edge on the vehicle side. When testing the new cable it does interfere with striker plate and that edge is getting hung up when closing it because the cable end is straighter than the old design . I ended up grinding the edge of the cable down so it doesn’t hit the striker plate. Here’s a picture before I grinded the cable and after grinding the red marked area. Hopefully this helps solve the cable getting hung up.

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yep, tired installing mine and same issues above as well. Revert back to stock.....yikes.
Well I just saw the updates to this tread...
yeap ... same issues here.... Reverted to stock long time ago... right after realizing it just doesn't fit right for me.... I don't know if it was the same issue but for me it just didn't fit well... cable seemed a bit too long, the shock too long or too short don't know for sure, didn't aligned properly... So back to stock...
I'm very sorry I drilled the hole and most important cutting the access hole in the tailgate...really really sorry.... Live and learn...
I will have the kit for sale...
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@CanVanLX96it didn't work out well for you.

@Rics4rnr
This is what mine looks like installed.View attachment 3475544
I need some help with the hardware connecting to the tailgate and location where to drill the whole. I have a picture that I marked bases off of direction using the drill template and the bolt, nuts and washer to connect the strut to the tailgate.
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That hole will be close.

Since every truck/strut may be a touch different you may want to install the top-end of the strut and then extend the strut and use the lower end hole as a guide for where to place the hole.

The side of the tailgate is not super strong where you will mount the strut and will tend to flex a little. You want to avoid having the strut being the limiting, binding factor on full open or full close as it will cause a lot of flexing of the tailgate skin if when it binds. I also recommend using a good size fender washer inside and another, slightly smaller washer, on the outside of the mount on the tailgate to help support the tailgate skin.

I'll take a picture of how mine is currently setup and share it, but can say that this setup works well and I'm in/out of the tailgate a decent amount. I've had this setup in place since it was initially shared by @Obrokoff but have had to make a few mods including welding on a washer on the lower mount and fine tuning the lower mount placement to avoid binding.
 
Maybe up a tad bit more, the damper is a little longer then I would like, but I have not been able to find a shorter one with the same extension.

Not sure why you don't have the outer custom washer and drill template. That came with the kit.
 
Here's where mine ended up after fiddling with it a few times. I didn't buy the kit but think that the parts are similar/equivalent. If you drill that lower/tailgate hole better than I do you likely won't need or want to make any of the adjustments that I've made.

It initially was binding and flexing the mount point on the tailgate a bit which led to the snapring getting pushed off over time. I welded on a washer and then ground that washer to a shape that does not contact the strut mounting eye as it rotates through open/close. Washers help stabilize the lower/tailgate mount and a locknut is used in case that mount tries to work itself loose. I needed to enlarge the lower/tailgate hole a little for adjustment to avoid the binding that the strut was seeing when the tailgate was fully closed and that helped reduce the stress on that mount point. My initially drilled hole was within about 1/16" of where it should have been :( but the flexing from the weight/force of opening and closing may have knocked the snapring off anyway?

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Here's where mine ended up after fiddling with it a few times. I didn't buy the kit but think that the parts are similar/equivalent. If you drill that lower/tailgate hole better than I do you likely won't need or want to make any of the adjustments that I've made.

It initially was binding and flexing the mount point on the tailgate a bit which led to the snapring getting pushed off over time. I welded on a washer and then ground that washer to a shape that does not contact the strut mounting eye as it rotates through open/close. Washers help stabilize the lower/tailgate mount and a locknut is used in case that mount tries to work itself loose. I needed to enlarge the lower/tailgate hole a little for adjustment to avoid the binding that the strut was seeing when the tailgate was fully closed and that helped reduce the stress on that mount point. My initially drilled hole was within about 1/16" of where it should have been :( but the flexing from the weight/force of opening and closing may have knocked the snapring off anyway?

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So is this the correct hardware to mount to the tailgate with the bolt and nut.
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Definitely listen to @Outsane as I assume he provided the kit you are using (I think?) and some of my info won't directly apply to your pieces.

@Rics4rnr that hardware you show is an upgrade from what came with my strut (I bought parts before the kit was a thing) in that there is no snap ring involved, etc. If you add in the positioning washer/drill template all of the little mods I made are represented and implemented in a neater, sturdier way :)
 
Ask all the questions! No worries it's the hardest part of the install.

The burned edges of the washer/template go on the inside. You want the hole closest to the front of the vehicle. You want to give the damper more room when the tailgate is closed.
 
Ask all the questions! No worries it's the hardest part of the install.

The burned edges of the washer/template go on the inside. You want the hole closest to the front of the vehicle. You want to give the damper more room when the tailgate is closed.
So I have to move the location of the hole the opposite direction where I marked in green.
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Here’s my installation of the slow close kit and I swapped the washer and drill template so the template is on the outside instead of the inside. Hopefully I installed the kit correctly and wanted to post pictures from my installation to help your next customer on the installation of the updated hardware in the kit.

Outsane please chime in if I installed the kit correctly.

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