80 series Headlight Upgrade? (2 Viewers)

[GeoEng]

Anybody try these is the past? 15 or 18 bucks a pair, not $200, and not $1000

80w 9006
Amazon product ASIN B078SJTQXR
100w 9005
Amazon product ASIN B078SGBFK4
Do I need a harness upgrade with these?

 

[77mustard40]

yeah because Diode Dynamics exists. it's not the 90's anymore

He's up in Wyoming and probably needs the halogen heat when driving in a snow storm.

Anybody try these is the past? 15 or 18 bucks a pair, not $200, and not $1000

Do I need a harness upgrade with these?

I'm still old school like @jonheld running Wagner 9011's in all four at $8 a pop. It would be interesting to see how the Hella's stack up to the 9011's. As far as a harness upgrade, I have not done it for the 9011's and haven't had any issues.

 

[GeoEng]

He's up in Wyoming and probably needs the halogen heat when driving in a snow storm.


I'm still old school like @jonheld running Wagner 9011's in all four at $8 a pop. It would be interesting to see how the Hella's stack up to the 9011's. As far as a harness upgrade, I have not done it for the 9011's and haven't had any issues.

Probably should do a harness upgrade if going to 100 watts. Don't want to melt anything because of higher draw than stock 55w / 65w $56 bucks for the slee one.

 

[jonheld]

Probably should do a harness upgrade if going to 100 watts. Don't want to melt anything because of higher draw than stock 55w / 65w $56 bucks for the slee one.

The 9011s are 65watts.

 

[GeoEng]

I was looking at these, more watts (80 and 100), need a harness upgrade? Like the one Slee sells?
Amazon product ASIN B078SGBFK4Amazon product ASIN B078SJTQXR

 

[toddsmith1]

I have h4 and h1 bulbs in my depo housings. The adapter that was in the truck for the halogens had to be rewired as they were backwards for the diode on the the high beam but they work great.

Thinking about doing the mod that allows use of the high beam on the h4 bulb as it is not utilizes with the stock wiring config

I have both the H1 and H4 bulbs wired for high beam. Works great.

 

[Corbet]

I like my HIR bulbs and the snow/ice they can melt off. Light output is plenty for around town. If I need more my aux LP9’s will burn the retina out of anything in their path.

 

[robnicko]

I replaced mine with the auxbeam LEDs in both hi and low. No problems with the indicator here. They provide good light output without overpowering the factory housings. I drive a lot at night and don't get flashed by oncoming traffic.

Maybe its something to do with the Aus delivery 80's that have the 4 rectangle headlights using H4 globes in the outer headlight that brings up the high beam indicator issue??

 

[CruiserDave]

That would be my guess.

 

[CharlieS]

modern LED's approximate the filament and have adjustable clocking to give you a factory pattern. Something like a Diode Dynamics SL1

The Old, non clocking, thick LED's are junk and shouldn't be used. they blind people.

Anyone make "Something like Diode Dynamics SL1" for a lot less than $200?

I have some Depos that work okay.

I also have some left over Morimoto projectors that I'm tempted to toss in them (I put the newer Morimoto version in my former 100 series and it worked well, so I never used these). It's a lot of hassle though, and my wife wasn't a fan of me heating them in the oven...

I'd rather throw some LEDs in, but they need to be decent ones. I had the Hikaris Mega whatevers in one rig, but they were scatter city.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

Anyone make "Something like Diode Dynamics SL1" for a lot less than $200?

I have some Depos that work okay.

I also have some left over Morimoto projectors that I'm tempted to toss in them (I put the newer Morimoto version in my former 100 series and it worked well, so I never used these). It's a lot of hassle though, and my wife wasn't a fan of me heating them in the oven...

I'd rather throw some LEDs in, but they need to be decent ones. I had the Hikaris Mega whatevers in one rig, but they were scatter city.

They have a few sales throughout the year… i’ve gotten them for around 120ish. They also have a fantastic warranty… @ncavi10 killed a set in his subi up in NH with all the nasty salty schmoo and they replaced them, no questions asked.

One thing to note, you’ll need to trim the back of the mounting rings just a hair. I can post pics if anyone is interested


I’m a big fan of DD, those guys are super responsive and stand behind their stuff. I’ve had a bunch of SL1’s in different vehicles and my 80 pretty much every single bulb is from them

 

[CharlieS]

I'm a huge fan too, and have two sets of DD pro on the front of the 80 and one on the rear as a dust light, plus DD amber pro fogs on my 200. I guess I should have hit them up on black friday. Maybe next year.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I'm a huge fan too, and have two sets of DD pro on the front of the 80 and one on the rear as a dust light, plus DD amber pro fogs on my 200. I guess I should have hit them up on black friday. Maybe next year.

if I remember (read as *don't crash my bike before*), next time I see a sale I will message you

 

[scottryana]

I used the VLEDs, they are basically the same design as the DD and they are pretty blinding. I am not sure I would do it again. I know they say they are safe to use in a non specefic LED housing, but man the light really scatters.

 

[robnicko]

scottryana,
they scatter because there doesnt appear to be any beam cutoff on them. Thats the main issue with retro fitting LED's to halogen based housings that blinds oncoming drivers.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

I used the VLEDs, they are basically the same design as the DD and they are pretty blinding. I am not sure I would do it again. I know they say they are safe to use in a non specefic LED housing, but man the light really scatters.

Did you clock them correctly? Based on your picture it looks like you just slapped them in right out of the box.... if you don't clock the LED to mimic the halogen filament, they will scatter and have a terrible beam pattern.... if you emit light from the same point in space, it doesn't matter if it's from a hot filament, an LED, or a candle, the beam pattern will reflect correctly.

 

[scottryana]

scottryana,
they scatter because there doesnt appear to be any beam cutoff on them. Thats the main issue with retro fitting LED's to halogen based housings that blinds oncoming drivers.

Right, I was just saying they are a lot like the Diode Dynamics SL1 that are being talked about in this forum and I would imagine they would be just as blinding.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

scottryana,
they scatter because there doesnt appear to be any beam cutoff on them. Thats the main issue with retro fitting LED's to halogen based housings that blinds oncoming drivers.

there's no 'beam cutoff' on halogen bulbs.... everything is illegal in Australia anyways, you'll get arrested if you run LED's

 

[scottryana]

Did you clock them correctly? Based on your picture it looks like you just slapped them in right out of the box.... if you don't clock the LED to mimic the halogen filament, they will scatter and have a terrible beam pattern.... if you emit light from the same point in space, it doesn't matter if it's from a hot filament, an LED, or a candle, the beam pattern will reflect correctly.

Yes it is clocked, there is just so much more light output. I would hazard to guess the LED's put out 3x the amount of light the filament would. Maybe it is just the VLEDs and the Diode Dynamics SL1, more closely mimic the amount of output of a stock bulb.

 

[robnicko]

there's no 'beam cutoff' on halogen bulbs.... everything is illegal in Australia anyways, you'll get arrested if you run LED's

exactly why a LED globe with no beam cutoff creates a blinding haze to oncoming drivers...H4 reflectors are designed for H4 halogen globes only with the cutoff built into the reflector, hunt around and there are LED's with cutoffs that work just fine beam pattern wise.... yeah, PITA with most things being illegal but the main ones are worth being that way......