So Kevin, about those windows...

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You're insane... :p

But that looks great with the paint and tinted windows. That wouldn't be a hard system to adopt to Aussie sliding windows (or 80s?) since you don't have to attach anything to glass. Just messing, though I bet you'll be up all night designing intricate little latches and parts in your head to make that work. Heck you could build limo lighting into the bolt heads and little LED clusters on either side of the push button thing for side markers and make the windows open to set or variable positions and and ...
 
Kevin I'm drooling over these bad boys. Can't wait to get a kit and do up the windows in my truck.

So that tape's pretty beefy huh? Do you foresee any deterioration in the future with its ability to hold the glass with the force of the piston (and the glass's weight itself) pressing against it?

Something else I thought of, just to throw a wrench into the works: though the release buttons are cool as hell, how well could they handle being bashed or snagged by a rock on a trail? It looks like they stick out a bit, and it'd suck to destroy one while out wheeling. Is there another lockable system that mounts more flush to the sheet metal?
 
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So now that you've sorted it all out, you can do the 100's for the 2 guys that might actually do something cool and useful to their trucks :)

I take it you got my email!
You damn 100 series guys...... :p
But yes, the hope would be that once this is sorted it could be adapted to other series with nothing more than new frames.
At least you are out there representin! Theres a lid coming your way, putting the hardware packs together right now.



So that tape's pretty beefy huh? Do you foresee any deterioration in the future with its ability to hold the glass with the force of the piston (and the glass's weight itself) pressing against it?

Yes, or more precisely, I don't know. The application is within the specs for the material and this particular adhesive is for metal to glass applications.
I've had two of the tabs glued to a piece of glass under tension of a heavy gas shock since last fall. Thats great and all, but nothing can match on the road testing.

Something else I thought of, just to throw a wrench into the works: though the release buttons are cool as hell, how well could they handle being bashed or snagged by a rock on a trail? It looks like they stick out a bit, and it'd suck to destroy one while out wheeling. Is there another lockable system that mounts more flush to the sheet metal?

Another big concern for sure.
Flush would be better, but there are no options for that without cutting the metal, and that defeats the purpose.
The actuator that is probably going to get used there will be slightly lower profile, and in both this and that case there are bump ramps to help with trees and such.
Rocks are another thing, but in both cases the actuators are made out of solid chunks of metal, they stick out a bit, but only about half again as much as the stock marker light, if the marker light is always getting broken on you then I would look at a different mount location.
That is the nice thing about this system, you don't have to necessary mount the actuator there, I've got it there since that's part of the bolt-in installation. If this where just for me, I would mount the actuator where you can see I have my trailer plug mounted, in the rear facing sheet metal right above the taillights.
It's pu out of the way that way.


You're insane... :p

But that looks great with the paint and tinted windows. That wouldn't be a hard system to adopt to Aussie sliding windows (or 80s?) since you don't have to attach anything to glass. Just messing, though I bet you'll be up all night designing intricate little latches and parts in your head to make that work. Heck you could build limo lighting into the bolt heads and little LED clusters on either side of the push button thing for side markers and make the windows open to set or variable positions and and ...
I resemble that remark!
Although, I am trying to make it simpler, not add complication.
However, your search skills are better than mine, if you can find some good lighted bolts for the actuator I would integrate them.
The marker light deletion is technically a legal issue, in the US market they are supposed to be there. (non us spec trucks don't all have them interestingly enough) My justification for the delete is that it lets these be installed without cutting the truck and if you look, newer cars (as in everything else on the road) do not have side marker lights anymore since their rear taillights technically wrap around the side enough. So the theory is that, who is going to know to look?
The other thing is that if this is an inspection issue, all the stock parts can be dropped back in, pop the markers in for inspection and switch them back out.
Good lighted bolts would take care of that.

Not that it would be legal, since as with everything else I make, it's for Off Road Use Only. :p
 
"So the theory is that, who is going to know to look?"

DOT will. But it is rare for private vehicles to be DOT'ed. Inspection...not so much.

But I'll show you the way around this when I get my flip-up windows. Now get busy on that hardware!

Pop
 
Yes, or more precisely, I don't know. The application is within the specs for the material and this particular adhesive is for metal to glass applications.
I've had two of the tabs glued to a piece of glass under tension of a heavy gas shock since last fall. Thats great and all, but nothing can match on the road testing.

I should mention that I have epoxy alternatives standing by that I have no concerns about, it just makes for a much cleaner/simpler instal if the VHB works.


"So the theory is that, who is going to know to look?"

DOT will. But it is rare for private vehicles to be DOT'ed. Inspection...not so much.

But I'll show you the way around this when I get my flip-up windows. Now get busy on that hardware!

Pop

You mean "get busy on that packing" The garage is still all set up, nothign is in the trailer yet. :doh:
And I'm, not doing a flip-marker light.
 
Wow, that is a pretty sweet setup!!!
 
Amazing...Kevin, I've been watching this thread for some time now and your work is nothing short of spectacular...I've got a "90 62 and would like to get in line for a set of your flip up windows.
 
I should mention that I have epoxy alternatives standing by that I have no concerns about, it just makes for a much cleaner/simpler instal if the VHB works.


Yeah, epoxy it is, I was just not liking any of the VHB variants on there, even after a short test. I did an epoxy swap in PA before we hit the road, 3k trouble free miles and still holding strong.
I was telling thadl that it looks like my parts are all working as they should. We are down to getting some production hardware lined up and we should be good to go..... :cool:
 
Sweet, a challenge :D

I make less of a mess fingerpainting than I do with epoxy.....
 
The epoxy works quite well, it's quite thick and stays in place, all the joints can be glued together with gravity helping you and it sets fast, so you've got quite a few handicaps in your favor!
The whole install process, epoxy or not, requires a good bit of patience and focus, but not much skill.
 
The epoxy works quite well, it's quite thick and stays in place, all the joints can be glued together with gravity helping you and it sets fast, so you've got quite a few handicaps in your favor!
The whole install process, epoxy or not, requires a good bit of patience and focus, but not much skill.

Well if you've got faith in it, that keeps any doubts at bay for me. I'll have to make sure I put some money aside for the windows so I can order a set as soon as you're distributing 'em. Meantime I've gotta work on getting those sliding windows out. Butyl tape is awesome, but I hate trying to undo it :bang:
 
Hmmm... I wonder if we could work something out for these. I have an 80 that is being bobbed 8"!

Possibly, I want to continue the project with the 80 windows once these are working, but there are some other barriers there.
The current objective is to use the OE glass so that might not be the best for your situation, but with the new parts, a new piece of custom glass wont be nearly as bad since there would not need to be any holes in it (would not need to be water-jet cut, i.e., exorbitantly expensive, requiring CAD files for the shape, etc).
 
Damn, just came across this thread! Those windows are so cool, I just popped up like the window !

I want.
 
Uhhhhh, Alf, your post makes me uncomfortable, I think I might have to ban you from my forum. :rolleyes:

I wish I could send you a set of window frames right now, I'm pretty much done with them, they work great, I just don't have the hardware.
I only even have half a set on my truck since that is all the hardware I have.
 
:p

Yeah - A vent window on this thing:

!!!
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:grinpimp:

:eek:

I still want.
 

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