So... are the 80's u-joint holes tapered or not? (1 Viewer)

[ZRotheohv]

I've been reading up about changing u-joints in my front driveshaft, and half of the posts suggest pushing the cups in, and half of them suggest pushing on the sides of the yoke (or using a tiger tool). The proponents of pushing on the sides claim that the holes are tapered and the cups should only be pushed OUT and not back in. But I used a micrometer on my replacement u-joint, and I just couldn't see a taper.

The only reason I ask is because I'm on the fence between getting a service kit like this:

Ball Joint Service Kit for 2WD and 4WD Vehicles

and getting a tiger tool:

Amazon.com: Automotive Universal Joint Puller - Tiger Tool 10105: Automotive

because they're within $10 of each other. The HF set would be more useful, though, and it's cheaper. Does anyone have any proof that the holes are or are not tapered? Thanks!

 

[whitey45]

No taper, vice , some sockets, and a hammer have worked for me for 25 years!

 

[ZRotheohv]

That's what I figured, but the FSM shows a giant SST that pushes on the arms so that's what scares me...

 

[ppc]

Check this video, much simpler than the tools you have linked to and also the proper way to do the repair.

 

[ChaseTruck]

The Ball Joint Service Kit referenced above has worked well for me for many years.
I find it significantly easier to use compared to the hammer/socket method.

 

[Tedward]

That looks so easy it would all most be fun!
The video doesn't represent my experiences accurately.

It would need more dirt, grease, cussing, bigger hammer, reefing on the vice....

 

[JaketheSSnake]

That looks so easy it would all most be fun!
The video doesn't represent my experiences accurately.

It would need more dirt, grease, cussing, bigger hammer, reefing on the vice....

No kidding. I'll add an angle grinder to cut a really bad one out and a hydraulic press. It's always a battle for me.

 

[baselfish]

indeed the BFH + socket method - at least extricating them - can be a bit precarious -
throw in pb blaster - grease - etc - it becomes even more of potential cluster-f

hitting my knuckle with a 32oz ball peen was fun the first time, the second time was downright hilarious -
woulda killed for that press in the video....

on the flip side - the new trunions went back in like buddah - dare I say 1/2 the amount of BFH force.
my last words of wisdom - make sure to grease up the new needle bearing big time - this will prevent them from
falling out of alignment - especially using the BFH method....


bF

 

[ZackR]

Question on U joint longevity.... is there any reason to replace U joints before they start making noise or causing issues? I hit mine with the grease gun a few times a year (around every other oil change) and from what I can tell they are smooth but most likely original.

The previous owner has numerous records of them being greased as well during oil changes and such.

 

[baselfish]

I would say depends on use (dd vs. mudding) and mild climate vs. 4 season geography....

indeed (Cali - DD - garaged) - even after 230k miles - my ujoints / needles - were very clean - no rust no grime / grit
and well greased - in shaft they were as well smooth - but f-me I replaced them anyways....

now a further "autopsy" - the needles were noticeably worn - some bigger than others.....
all in all - indeed I probably didn't "need" to replace them - but such is not the Mud way....

Bf

 

[Tools R Us]

Question on U joint longevity.... is there any reason to replace U joints before they start making noise or causing issues? I hit mine with the grease gun a few times a year (around every other oil change) and from what I can tell they are smooth but most likely original.

The previous owner has numerous records of them being greased as well during oil changes and such.

As long as they don't have slop, run them. With even casual care they last a longtime, almost lifetime.

 

[flintknapper]

As long as they don't have slop, run them. With even casual care they last a longtime, almost lifetime.

I do grease mine regularly....but certainly agree, they can/do last a long time. Mine are still the originals @ 296K

 

[Tools R Us]

When replacing them, note where the clips come off and thickness/color. In some cases, differing thickness clips were used to make the joints centered, the play correct. Have had a few change them for OCD fun and ignore this, making for problems. If the clips differ, we reuse them in the same places on the new joint. If differing clips are used, once the clip size/relationship is lost, it's big fun to get it right again.

 

[Tools R Us]

I do grease mine regularly....but certainly agree, they can/do last a long time. Mine are still the originals @ 296K

Yep, have only changed one on mine, it died early (~40K mi) looked like they dorked it when installing at the factory. It's been lifted and 37" tires for ~150K mi, so not an easy life. Toyota joints are very durable, most of the dead ones we see have been run dry.

 

[Malleus]

Question on U joint longevity.... is there any reason to replace U joints before they start making noise or causing issues? I hit mine with the grease gun a few times a year (around every other oil change) and from what I can tell they are smooth but most likely original.

The previous owner has numerous records of them being greased as well during oil changes and such.

The bores are straight. The maintenance guidance is designed to eliminate damaged yokes, due to overstressing the housing during removal. If the housing (yoke) is supported properly and there's room, you can push them out in either direction, provided no one got in there before you and slipped in some needle bearings with lips on the outer edge. (It happened to me)

Replacing bearings prior to failure may be prudent, but it's more expensive than it is anything else. U-joint needle bearings rarely fail catastrophically without warning. (I've never seen it, but it could happen)

The real trick to maintaining bearings indefinitely is keeping them clean and operating below their design heat load level. Grease does that on stock U-joints.