Smashed diff drain plug (1 Viewer)

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alia176

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I dragged my front diff over rocks a few times in the past and managed to have ground down the protective wall surrounding the drain plug hole. Currently, I'm not able to turn the hex head nor get a socket in there. I'm trying to clear up the hole using a die grinder with a stone bit and a metal cutting bit. But the progress is very very slow. Does anyone have any better ideas? I even thought of simply remoing the entire protetive ring using a band saw and then building up another wall by stacking up several welding beads.

Ali
 
I would cut a straight slot in the drain plug itself, use an impact screwdriver to get the thing out, get a new drain plug from Dan, or get one of the allen headed recessed and rounded drain plugs (not sure the source? anyone know?) and then perhaps SLOWLY build a bead up around the original protective ring. Do not overheat the diff while welding as all sorts of problems are possible. A similar thing happened on my Runner. Someone here (Chris Geiger?) makes diff armor you might want to look into. HTH. :cheers:
 
Well, the problem isn't that I can't turn the drain plug, rather, I can't get to it! All six sides of the bolt head is fine, there's metal stuff that's in the way.
 
alia176 said:
Well, the problem isn't that I can't turn the drain plug, rather, I can't get to it! All six sides of the bolt head is fine, there's metal stuff that's in the way.

I understand but what you are saying and what i am saying are the same thing - you cant get to it with a socket so, cut a straight slot, remove it, replace with the ones that are already rounded and recessed and viola, a fix and an upgrade at the same time. BTW, i think it was MAF that had those plugs. HTH.
 
Sounds like you should keep going the route you are then. Grind it away with a burr - use a good one though, and it should not take long. A stone will take a long time and you'll go through a lot of them.
 
As mentioned above, slot it, then use an air chisel or what have you to unscrew it.

The best protective ring I've done was to cut a small piece of stainless tube and mig weld it around the existing ring with some 308 wire and argon/CO2 gas. Stainless alloys are quite tough compared to mild steel. That was on my 4-Runner, 2 years of wheeling left the ring shiney but pretty much unscathed....
 
turbocruiser said:
... or get one of the allen headed recessed and rounded drain plugs (not sure the source? anyone know?)

Dan carries the genuine Toyota recessed allen head drain plugs; with or without magnet.

Cheap too.

-B-
PS. Don't forget to get an extra allen head socket for the trail tools.
 
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Is it possible to get a chisle on one of the flats and hammer it out in an anti clockwise direction?
If you can this how I removed a seriously stuck axle fill plug!

Another alternative is to weld a large hex bolt to it if you have enough access, and then turn that.
 
90341-18021 Plug w/magnet $1.74/ea

http://www.ih8mud.com/techtrivia.php :doh:

I've removed all my drain plugs and welded the openings shut....1 trip and mine are ground over anyways. Pull the bottom stud from the diff, replace with a bolt, and drain from there.
 
Does anyone know if the 90341-18021 magnetic allen head plugs will work as both drain and fill plugs in the diffs, and in the transfer case? I seem to recall someone posting that they had damaged something because the 90341-18021 plug is longer than the stock plug.

Mike
 
Woody, that's a good idea. Wish I read this thread before I put everything back together!
 
I used a chisle when I had the same problem...cut the material away.

Intead of an Allan head drain plug. I'd like a magnetic plug with a 3/8" or 1/2" socket head...any leads?
 
The answer to my own question is that the 90341-18021 allen head magnetic drain plugs DO work as both the fill and drain plugs on both diffs and the transfer case, at least for a 1995. The only plug where the 90341-18021 is longer than the original--and where there is not a mile of empty space behind the plug--is the transfer drain plug. As near as I can tell, the 90341-18021 has a safe 1/2 inch of clearance from a bearing when it is seated all the way in. I realize that there is not much chance of bashing the transfer case or fill plugs on rocks. But I wanted to avoid having to carry and use an assortment of wrenches to work on the plugs.

I used 18mm fiber washers that are about 1/16 inch thick. My thinking on fiber rather than the original metal is to try to avoid the metal-metal freezing that makes the plugs so hard to remove.

Mike
 

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