Small (hopefully) rust bubble repair (1 Viewer)

[NearJetties]

I have 2 rust bubbles on the rear glass window frame that I was planning to tackle myself. I am getting cold feet because of the possibility of it being worse than just sand/paint.

Any recommendations for small scale body work? The ones I found were 4+ years old and most on yelp are geared towards insurance work.

Ideally I’d take the glass out and just want it prepped for paint to keep costs down. I bought supplies to paint myself since it’s a small area.

 

[Stumpalama]

My thoughts on these types of rust discoveries, is to address the rust right away with a scraper, wire wheel etc, then, no matter what, get a rust converter/stopper and a temporary coat of paint/sealer on it, no matter what. This why you can at least stop or slow the clock while you decide what to do. But imho, the best first step is to expose the rust so it can dry, be minimized and not spread further under the paint.

 

[Pacer]

I have 2 rust bubbles on the rear glass window frame that I was planning to tackle myself. I am getting cold feet because of the possibility of it being worse than just sand/paint.

Any recommendations for small scale body work? The ones I found were 4+ years old and most on yelp are geared towards insurance work.

Ideally I’d take the glass out and just want it prepped for paint to keep costs down. I bought supplies to paint myself since it’s a small area.

Is this on your 60 series?
If so, I guess it's on the bottom towards the left of the window seal?
This rust spot, as you figure, is way deeper than it looks.
The source is the brackets for the windshield wiper motor, some spot welds have failed and the weight of the wiper motor is flexing the steel around it every time one slams the tailgate.
You can remove the covers on the inside of the lift gate and inspect the deeper damage.
The whole flange under the window gasket has probably cracked through.
Unfortunately this is happening to all 60 series.

 

[NearJetties]

Is this on your 60 series?
If so, I guess it's on the bottom towards the left of the window seal?
This rust spot, as you figure, is way deeper than it looks.
The source is the brackets for the windshield wiper motor, some spot welds have failed and the weight of the wiper motor is flexing the steel around it every time one slams the tailgate.
You can remove the covers on the inside of the lift gate and inspect the deeper damage.
The whole flange under the window gasket has probably cracked through.
Unfortunately this is happening to all 60 series.

Liked but dislike

 

[JohnVee]

@NearJetties do you want to practice on the front edge of my 80 hood? Or maybe the rear window lower corner? I can make that happen. (Said only partly in jest)

 

[NearJetties]

Since the weather cleared up and it’ll be dry through the end of the weekend I dug into this.

No rust lined up with the wiper motor but some near the lock actuator. Treating that as well. Hit it with a 3m paint and rust wheel on a power drill which worked awesome, then some sanding drums. Now I’m waiting for the first application of Ospho to do it’s thing.

I got a very reasonable quote from Fleming Automotive I’m Arlington if I brought the truck in with the window out. They’re awesome but this is out of their wheel house so was expecting a no or astronomical quote. With this as a backup plan I went for it.

The window and gasket were changed a few years ago. Hard to believe the installer would ignore this....thinking they damaged the paint. Also, the not all of the chrome lock channel was installed so thinking water sat longer than normal....plus it’s a 60.

What you saw and what it was...I knew it’d be worse but...

Phew, no hole.

 

[NearJetties]

Progress

 

[Pacer]

Progress

View attachment 1833890

Way to get after it.
The one spot the far left, does that line up with a bracket on the inside?

 

[Stumpalama]

Good start, but, you need to get those bubbles... Wire wheel the sh!t out of it to get all those rust bumps out. You should only have craters (or holes), no bumps. Bumps hide rust that won't get treated. Also, check the underside and treat that too.

 

[NearJetties]

Good start, but, you need to get those bubbles... Wire wheel the sh!t out of it to get all those rust bumps out. You should only have craters (or holes), no bumps. Bumps hose rust that won't get treated. Also, check the underside and treat that too.

Last photo or second to last? The 2nd tomlast was just the initial grind, spent another 45 mins or so hitting it.

 

[NearJetties]

Way to get after it.
The one spot the far left, does that line up with a bracket on the inside?

I don’t think so but will double check

 

[NearJetties]

Color on

 

[Pacer]

Color onView attachment 1834546

What a save!

 

[NearJetties]

What a save!

after letting ospho do it’s thing overnight Saturday I cleaned up the chalky residue and used rustoleum paint first as an extra precaution.

Then feathered in 4 light coats of regular primer, wet sanded, 4 light coats of paint, and 4 light coats of clear from automotivetouchup.com.

Letting it cure until this evening when I’ll try to get the window back in with the help of my lovely wife .

Once I wet sand and polish with rubbing compound should be a pretty good paint match.

We’ll see how it holds up. Definitely keeping my expectations low.

I do plan on occasionally injecting linseed or mineral oil under the gasket to help.

 

[NearJetties]

Success on the glass

 

[Betteron2wheels]

Look good!

 

[Stumpalama]

Nice work!

 

[Pacer]

View attachment 1835493 Success on the glass

Wow, wanna take mine home for a bit?