No and no. They’re port injected engines that don’t exhibit an acccumulation of carbon or combustion byproducts.
Sludge under oil cap, help! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Bryanmc
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Will not help with sludge. Main reason for sludge is moisture.
Yes indeed
Blow being the source of moisture still you are right …
I was more concerned about oil fouling in the return path, but you were both right.
check this out;
Separator baffle built in. No need for catch can at all.
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
All combustion engines (yes, even these snazzy new ones) benefit from a good 20+ minute hot run under load every so often. The more the engine sees idle and light loads, the more often that hot run is needed.
What your seeing is most likely an emulsion.
Think of it like fog, but in your oil…
When you have water in the air but temperatures are sufficient to keep it vaporized, it’s not seen. When temps drop, the water condenses into fog (that’s what the dew point is all about…the temp that dew forms).
Same thing happens in your oil… as a motor cools, it draws in atmospheric air that contains moisture. This can be appreciated the next time you start your motor and see water dripping out your exhaust pipe.
If you don‘t fully evaporate that water, it increases in concentration, finally reaching the point where it “condenses” out (like fog)…that’s what you’re seeing. Its called an emulsion when it happens in a fluid.
Change your oil and start doing longer trips…water in the oil will reduce lubricating qualities to the bearings, add the risk of internal rusting, and form an acidic bath that can eat at softer metals in your engine.
Water = no bueno
Think of it like fog, but in your oil…
When you have water in the air but temperatures are sufficient to keep it vaporized, it’s not seen. When temps drop, the water condenses into fog (that’s what the dew point is all about…the temp that dew forms).
Same thing happens in your oil… as a motor cools, it draws in atmospheric air that contains moisture. This can be appreciated the next time you start your motor and see water dripping out your exhaust pipe.
If you don‘t fully evaporate that water, it increases in concentration, finally reaching the point where it “condenses” out (like fog)…that’s what you’re seeing. Its called an emulsion when it happens in a fluid.
Change your oil and start doing longer trips…water in the oil will reduce lubricating qualities to the bearings, add the risk of internal rusting, and form an acidic bath that can eat at softer metals in your engine.
Water = no bueno
Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
Let's not forget that water vapor is a main byproduct of combustion...keeping the engine hot, i.e. at operating temp, lets this stay in a vapor state and leave the engine.
I don’t remember which informational tidbit I saw on it, but that post shutoff vacuum is supposed to address that. I may be misremembering things though.
I don’t believe your cap should ever milkshake.
Now I also don’t know how much influence a heavier oil will have on blowby but in my mind it should help.
^^* this. Nothing to do with ambient moisture unless you live in the rain forests
Maybe not for you and the OP in TX, but here in the PNW and other wet and cool climates it is a factor. As is h2o as a combustion by-product.
Regardless of how the moisture gets in, the goal is getting it out. And only heat will do that.
Regardless of how the moisture gets in, the goal is getting it out. And only heat will do that.
Here are some pics from a 2020 5.7 Tundra owner. His trips are often short enough to create the dreaded milkshake under the oil cap. So he added a catch can. Seems that it does catch quite a bit of this stuff. This is after 1800 miles:
And this is after 2300 miles:
I think I’m going to go ahead and order one. My wife takes a lot of short trips, and if I can catch most or even some of this, I would think it’s worth it.
And this is after 2300 miles:
I think I’m going to go ahead and order one. My wife takes a lot of short trips, and if I can catch most or even some of this, I would think it’s worth it.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
Is there a LC200 specific catch can?
I don’t believe so. I think it is specific to the 5.7L.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
This might work
I've seen some on this forum run the Radium setup. I'm going to go with the J&L that lots of Tundra guys use. I might put one on my Tundra, too.
We're the king of short trips 9 months of the year. Grocery store is 5 blocks away, youngest's school is 1/2 mile, etc. Our town is 8 square miles, and we probably only drive out of it twice a month on average. It's been in the upper 20s/low 30s for the last month or so, and it's 12F out right now. There's no milky residue on my oil cap after ~2000 miles. Anyone who experiences this should start by changing their PCV valve.
Sometimes multiple sequential short trips are enough to get the engine up to operating temp helping to boil off internal condensation.
sleepycruiser
I will get by….I will survive -Touch of Grey LC200
I’ll likely go with UPR. I had one on my GMC and it was solid. I just need to figure out the ID of the hose and where it all goes. With the GMC they had a plug and play, but they don’t offer one of the LC. They do have a DIY version though.
Universal Billet Oil Catch Can - DIY Catch Can
Universal Billet Oil Catch Can - DIY Catch Can. All you need to install a catch can on anything
www.uprproducts.com
I had one for my F150 made by team RXP racing. solid hardware and hoses right out of the box. I did however go with better hose clamps. No issues after install and looked decent in the engine bay after installation.
EDIT: link for clarity
EDIT: link for clarity
TOYOTA TUNDRA TWIN CAN SYTEM DUAL VALVE CATCH CAN KIT 2007 - 2021 4.0, 4.6, 5.7
TEAMRXP ORIGINAL RX DUAL VALVE CATCH CAN TOYOTA TUNDRA
teamrxp.com
