Slow start now no start (2 Viewers)

[Chris325i]

Here is the diag section of the FSM. Step 1 is to check resistance of the sensor as above. If within specs, check the wiring harness for open or short:

The other ends of the cam position wires are in ECM connector E7 positions 27 and 32. The wiring diagram shows them as red and green, so check continuity red to red, green to green. Then each to ground.

 

[2001LC]

@Chris325i is posting some good stuff. (Chris your right, V-bank is referring to engine cover)

Have you tried clearing the DTC's.

If you root around in mud you should find a FSM for 00, 01 or 02 would be best but even a 98-99 will do. In it you'll find a lot more of these diagnostic trees, wire diagram and some very specific test.

 

[Ohiolc100]

yes i tried clearing them, came right back, still didnt start. Thank you so much for the info chris. So im going to be tearing out the passanger side of the dash to get to this ecu? Is this an obvious disassembly? I replaced the evap core a few months back im assuming its in there somewhere. Thanks again all, i was at my wits end with this and ready to tow to the dealer, you guys are giving me the motivation to push on.

 

[Chris325i]

Yes I would definitely look for a manual or wiring diagram specific to your model year. The one I have is kind of generic, it just says 98-07. But the cam position sensor is a pretty simple circuit I don't think it would change that much, at least not up until 2005.

One thing I just noticed is that the diag section has different resistance values than the ignition section I posted earlier, I would go with these:

The ECM should be pretty easy to get to right behind the glove box. You shouldn't have to remove it just find connector E7 and pull that off to test.

 

[2001LC]

Just behind the clove box.

 

[Spike555]

No fuel equals no start, no start means no spark.

The ECU is going to shut down the coils unless the engine is running, otherwise they'd overheat and live a short life.

Check your fuel pressure, it's free and takes a few minutes.

KISS (keep it simple stupid) that means check the free and easy stuff first.

Cam and crank sensors fail when hot not cold, then they cool off and work again, until they finally die.

 

[Ohiolc100]

ok, so pulled the cam sensor off, reading 1180 ohms. Having trouble with the continuity test though, could get ground on the right side of the connector with it still plugged into the pcm and battery connected. All other tests seemed to fail, is there a relay or something that it also goes through? should the battery be connected? i disconnected it before i stated unplugging the ecm.

 

[Chris325i]

I'm not sure on the resistance check, as I said there are 2 different specs in the FSM that I have. It appears to be for a 2004 LC though. The 1180 ohms is in range according to the general engine section but out of range according to the diagnostic section.

I went to BBB Industries to get a 2000 LC wiring diagram. You can sign up for free and get wiring diagrams for pretty much anything, with varying levels of detail. It shows a different ECM connector location for the cam and crank sensors. So you should be looking on connector T5 for the cam sensor wires. It's just a simple 2 wire circuit, no relays or fuses involved.

 

[Ohiolc100]

connector t5? I went ahead and ordered a cam position sensor anyway, didnt want to waste the money if the wire is the problem though.

 

[Ohiolc100]

Im also wondering if checking the resistance on that sensor is sufficient, given that to truly see if it was working i would need to see a graphed current right?

 

[Chris325i]

When you were testing for continuity did you find red and green wires on the ECM connector pins 27 and 32? This diagram from BBB for a 2000 LC shows connector T5 at pins 10 and 24, with the crankshaft sensor green and blue on 22 and 23.

 

[Ohiolc100]

I mean there's 5 connectors with lots of red and green, lol. I checked both bottom corners on all 5 connectors at first the plugged them all in an unplugged then until I no longer had ground at the other end and narrowed it down to the second from the top. Then checked both bottom corners on that one. Wondering though since I am getting ground on the right side of the connector, should I also get ground on the left? Weird I'm getting ground on the right side when it's plugged into the ecm, but not continuity end to end.

 

[jsharrell]

I just got my first 100 series this month and was having exact same issue. I read and read about everything related to keys, immobilizers, EFI relays and fuses and grounds and fuel filter and fuel pump and tried them all and then tried them all again. I got frustrated and finally took it to a friend who is Rain Man mechanic. I dropped it off and he called me right away ( like before I was back home) and said" its fixed". He said it was a half tripped anurser. It's an emergency fuel shut off I think to keep fuel from getting pumped to engine fire in the event of a crash. Check that out.
Flip of a switch so to speak. Go figure.

 

[Eicca]

Totally forgot about that. It’s a small button in the driver’s footwell, yellow if I remember right. Just push it a few times.

 

[Spike555]

I just got my first 100 series this month and was having exact same issue. I read and read about everything related to keys, immobilizers, EFI relays and fuses and grounds and fuel filter and fuel pump and tried them all and then tried them all again. I got frustrated and finally took it to a friend who is Rain Man mechanic. I dropped it off and he called me right away ( like before I was back home) and said" its fixed". He said it was a half tripped anurser. It's an emergency fuel shut off I think to keep fuel from getting pumped to engine fire in the event of a crash. Check that out.
Flip of a switch so to speak. Go figure.

All electric fuel pump cars have this inertia kill switch, on the older Discovery's it would trip if you "jumped" the truck over a big bump, but it always set off the 4 way flashers too so you knew right away why the engine quit. Press the rest button on the fire wall, cycle the key and back up and running.

 

[Ohiolc100]

Ok so I could get continuity on the green wire, but never the red, I pulled out the harness, checked right before the harness to the contact and it was good . Threw a new cam position sensor in anyway. Still not starting but the p340 went away now have a p335 crank position sensor. Thoughts anyone?

 

[kickitrootdown]

@Chris325i is posting some good stuff. (Chris your right, V-bank is referring to engine cover)

Have you tried clearing the DTC's.

If you root around in mud you should find a FSM for 00, 01 or 02 would be best but even a 98-99 will do. In it you'll find a lot more of these diagnostic trees, wire diagram and some very specific test.

Easier said than done! I haven't been able to track down the FSM for anything but the 2004, much less ones for the 1998-2003 models.

 

[2001LC]

Keep looking. There are electronic versions in mud somewhere, IDKW.

I also see hard copy ranging from $100 to $300 from time to time on ebay, Amazon & CL.

A lot of 04 FSM stuff will be the same as pre 03 and post 05. Just best to have your year range. (Ranges: 98-99, 00-02, 03-05 & 06-07.)

 

[ScottyD]

Same with me but my solution was replacing the starter.

 

[Ohiolc100]

Any tips on getting the crank sensor out? cant get my fat fingers in there to unclip the harness.