Slow Motion LS Swap - (aka Heater/Cooling System Issue) (1 Viewer)

[EricG]

Thanks Todd - I'm running a 50mm OME lift. Just went out and jacked it level to measure. Measured from the inside edge of the wheel to an edge on the bump stop brackets (and verified to another spot on the frame). It looks like only 3 to 4 mm offset. That's something I guess - every bit counts. But you won't get that much back at the pan, so not sure the adjustable panhard is worthwhile.

So what does the double cardan gain you on the shaft? Was that for the transmission clearance problem, or to address other driveline issues? I haven't had any vibration issues with the stock shaft.

My stripped nut is actually on the flange, not the frame. So easier to deal with. Considering drilling it out and tapping for the next size bolt - but there may not be enough of that nut left. I suppose I could grind it off and tack a new nut on there, but it'd be a PITA to get to. Simplest would be to simply run a longer bolt through and put a heavy washer & nut on top of it.

 

[twbland]

Agree, small difference in centering isn’t worth it. I’m running a 3” slinky long travel so more of an issue. Yes, I had some slight vibration upfront on deceleration so opted for the dc. I also put a shorter tranny pan on. Truck pan is a slightly taller pan.

 

[EricG]

Yea, I already swapped for the shallower transmission pan, so nothing more to gain there. The pan on the 4L60 is just so damn wide. I've heard the 6L80s are even wider - not sure how anyone is making that work.

Stock shaft is about 2 5/8"
The Tom Wood shafts (Toyota Double Cardan Drive Shaft) are 2" I imagine your Tatton is also. So you'd gain 5/16" on the radius. Still seems tight to me, but should work. Considering the Tom Wood or Tatton shaft, or talking to drivelines25483233-139671-sml-1 about re-tubing the existing shaft down to that size.

 

[CO_Hunter]

No idea what the internal looks like, but you you cut the pan, notch it, and reweld? Good progress!

 

[EricG]

No idea what the internal looks like, but you you cut the pan, notch it, and reweld? Good progress!

Yea, I've been trying to remember what that looks like underneath as well. I think I've seen it done in the 80 series swap thread, but I think it was the deeper pan.

Guess I'd be concerned about warping and never getting a good seal on the transmission.

 

[EricG]

While I was under there measuring for the driveshaft (31.25") , I thought I'd take some pics of the Dakota Digital gear indicator. Not the best pics - kind of cramped. But you get the idea. It's basically a potentiometer, and then you shift through the gears and "train" the box to recognize certain positions as the different gears.

I welded a tab onto the opposite side of the existing shift arm (black thing on the left) to attach the encoder linkage to. Drilled several holes because I wasn't sure exactly where i'd want it until everything was in position - the goal being to maximise the overall travel of the encoder shaft through the gear range. I'm almost against the stops on both ends. The bottom bellows is the Trailblazer shift cable. The silver thing on the right is the Dakota Digital encoder.

 

[EricG]

Before I drop $300+ on a new driveshaft, I wanted to make sure it will solve the problem. Came up with this jig. Disks cut from insulation board with a hole saw. They're about 2 1/8" in diameter. New driveshaft will be 2"

Sitting level

Down on the bump stop

One end of jig

Looks like I'm good.

 

[EricG]

Measured the driveshaft length - correctly this time.

On bump stop: 31 1/8"
Level: 31 5/8"
Fully extended: 32"

 

[EricG]

That was quick

 

[EricG]

I think I finally got the intake & upper radiator hose sorted out.

 

[CO_Hunter]

Starting to look like you got something there! Keep at it!

 

[EricG]

Starting to look like you got something there! Keep at it!

It's getting close ... the wiring just seems never ending.

 

[EricG]

Some notes for myself. Took me way to long to figure this out and test it.

The GM ECU needs two brake pedal inputs:
12V Brakes Applied - Yellow Wire (this is the typical brake light and torque converter unlock signal)
12V Brakes NOT Applied - Purple Wire

You can do this with just the normal stop light switch output & a relay. But when I looked at the stop switch, there were 4 wires coming out of it instead of the two i expected. Turns out the Land Cruiser cruise control system requires a connection to ground when brakes are not applied, which opens when brakes are applied. And it uses the same stop light switch.

The Green-Light Blue (G-L) wire into the top right of the stop switch is 12V straight from the fuse.

So if I join that to the Red wire at the top left of the stop switch, I should get what I need out of the Red-Green and Green-White wires at the bottom of the stop switch.

The Red and Green-Blue wires are accessible at the plug for the Cruise Control ECU under the DS dash.

The Green-White wire comes out at pin 8 of the IH1 connector at the PS firewall. Connect to the Yellow wire for the GM ECU
The Red-Green wire is accessible at the Cruise Control Actuator plug at the PS fender. Connect to the Purple wire for the GM ECU

 

[EricG]

Some more progress on the wiring.

Figured out the fuel pump, and extended the wire to the other side. Which was a PITA - only a few inches of wire to work with and deep down along the inner fender.

Extended the brake switch wires I described yesterday.

The PSI Conversions wiring harness doesn't include the evap purge valve harness. But since the truck already has a charcoal canister and all the plumbing, I wanted a working evap system. So I went to the original GM harness and figured out how to depin the purge valve harness from the PCM connector, and added it to the PSI harness. Took some of the wiring loom apart and routed it back to the purge valve on the intake manifold.

Next step will be the starting circuit and neutral safety relay, and the battery to starter and battery to alternator cables.

Then make the final connections and get everything tidied up and tied down.

 

[black95]

I’m sure you already are, but it’s worth saying to make sure you’re documenting all of this. Think about keeping a copy in the vehicle somewhere. After I completed my swap, I was so excited to have the 4Runner running and driving again, that I never took the time to write down all of the stuff I wired up in the home stretch. I figured I wouldn’t forget, but you do.
I got to learn it all again after I rolled that machine, and had to do the body swap. I wrote it all down the second time.

 

[EricG]

I’m sure you already are, but it’s worth saying to make sure you’re documenting all of this. Think about keeping a copy in the vehicle somewhere. After I completed my swap, I was so excited to have the 4Runner running and driving again, that I never took the time to write down all of the stuff I wired up in the home stretch. I figured I wouldn’t forget, but you do.
I got to learn it all again after I rolled that machine, and had to do the body swap. I wrote it all down the second time.

That's one of the reasons why some of the posts in this thread have alot more detail then anyone out there really cares about. I have additional notes as well, but it's definitely incomplete. Documentation has never been my strength

Been busy lately - our fiscal year just ended, which means lots of overtime. And lots of family stuff - just got back from a 1700 mile road trip to Arizona to visit my daughter. But I'm hoping to hit this hard again now.

 

[EricG]

Found a home for the Dakota Digital bits (gear decoder, tach translator). I have an aftermarket stereo, so the amp by the PS knee was just taking up space.

Using the same brackets, and a bit of bending, drilling and tapping...

 

[EricG]

It fits! Looks like plenty of room if I get the speedo corrector at some point.

 

[EricG]

It's Alive

Todd came over and turned off the VATS for me, and tweaked a few other things. Then turned the key, and it started immediately - like first crank (we cranked it a bit with no spark to move the oil and get fuel up to the injectors). Idled well, oil pressure came up, and things looked good on the OBD2 scanner.

Two main problems - the accelerator pedal doesn't work, and is throwing some codes. If you look back a few pages, I had alot of issues figuring out how to wire that up. And apparently I didn't get it right. So I'll revisit that.

The other problem is the Dakota Digital gear shift sending unit isn't behaving right, so we had to jumper the neutral safety switch.

Still lots to do, but it was damn nice to here it run!

 

[EricG]