Slow Motion LS Swap - (aka Heater/Cooling System Issue) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter EricG
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- Thread starter
- #82
It's getting so close - I ditched the corvette pedal and fabbed up a new one based on an 05 Tahoe (my donor vehicle had a plastic pedal). And it actually moves the throttle plate!! Something I should have checked before I ever messed with that vette pedal. I'll know for next time, right! Any way, that's installed, just have to extend the harness.
Modded the fuse block brackets to work with the gas springs and got a different washer reservoir, so that problem should be cleared up soon.
The issue right now is with the Dakota Digital gear shift sending unit (GSS-3000). If I wire it up with just the position sensor, power & ground I can program the positions and the lights on the unit work fine. But once I hook up the dash light wires, N D 2 1 work fine on the dash and the unit, but P and R do not. If I try to program it with the dash wires connected, P and R don't work right either. And it's not just vanity in wanting the dash lights to work - this unit will also run the neutral safety switch.
I don't think it's the DD unit - if I switch the P and D wires, the problem moves to the D position. I can light them up with a regulated power supply, so the wires go to where I think they do. But the DD unit doesn't like something about the P and R circuits. I'm exchanging emails with tech support.
Modded the fuse block brackets to work with the gas springs and got a different washer reservoir, so that problem should be cleared up soon.
The issue right now is with the Dakota Digital gear shift sending unit (GSS-3000). If I wire it up with just the position sensor, power & ground I can program the positions and the lights on the unit work fine. But once I hook up the dash light wires, N D 2 1 work fine on the dash and the unit, but P and R do not. If I try to program it with the dash wires connected, P and R don't work right either. And it's not just vanity in wanting the dash lights to work - this unit will also run the neutral safety switch.
I don't think it's the DD unit - if I switch the P and D wires, the problem moves to the D position. I can light them up with a regulated power supply, so the wires go to where I think they do. But the DD unit doesn't like something about the P and R circuits. I'm exchanging emails with tech support.
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- Thread starter
- #83
Some more on the Dakota Digital issue.
If I check resistance to ground for each of the dash shift indicator wires I get the following:
P 21 ohm
R 29 ohm
N 22 ohm
D 107 ohm
2 482 ohm
1 475 ohm
That's a big difference between PRN and D21. DD tech support thinks the resistance is to low and the DD unit thinks it's a short circuit and is disabling those circuits. But that doesn't explain why the N circuit seems to work. Unless I screwed up in measuring them and didn't get the right wire. Will check it again.
I can light up both the P and D lights with 12V and 0.15A. So not sure why the resistance is that much lower for P.
If I check resistance to ground for each of the dash shift indicator wires I get the following:
P 21 ohm
R 29 ohm
N 22 ohm
D 107 ohm
2 482 ohm
1 475 ohm
That's a big difference between PRN and D21. DD tech support thinks the resistance is to low and the DD unit thinks it's a short circuit and is disabling those circuits. But that doesn't explain why the N circuit seems to work. Unless I screwed up in measuring them and didn't get the right wire. Will check it again.
I can light up both the P and D lights with 12V and 0.15A. So not sure why the resistance is that much lower for P.
- Thread starter
- #84
Figured out the Dakota Digital problems.
The Reverse circuit problem is because the backup lights are run directly from that circuit, and draw more then the DD unit can handle (0.2A). The high power LEDs I have in there probably aren't helping
Added a relay to handle the draw.
The Park circuit took a little more digging through the wiring diagram. Turns out there's a connection from the Park circuit back to the Toyota transmission ECU, and it draws more then the DD unit can supply. Unplugging the transmission controller solved the problem.
The Reverse circuit problem is because the backup lights are run directly from that circuit, and draw more then the DD unit can handle (0.2A). The high power LEDs I have in there probably aren't helping
Added a relay to handle the draw.The Park circuit took a little more digging through the wiring diagram. Turns out there's a connection from the Park circuit back to the Toyota transmission ECU, and it draws more then the DD unit can supply. Unplugging the transmission controller solved the problem.
- Thread starter
- #85
I hacked together a quick pair of exhaust pipes to get below the frame rail and hold an O2 sensor. Built some heat shields, tied down some wires, put the interior back together, etc. It's almost ready to roll out - just waiting for my son to have some time to help me put the hood, bumper & PS slider back on it!
The plan was to drive it down to an exhaust shop to get a quote (recommendations welcome). Got the insurance back up (was in a reduced "storage" category) and tried to get the registration updated since I let it lapse for the year+ it was off the road. But ... the online registration only works if your registration is current or no more then a month out. And to get to the DMV in person, you now need an appointment. And appointments are nearly 3 weeks out
edit 2 - While online renewal didn't work, and the state DMV person said I had to go in person, I called the El Paso county DMV number anyway (719-520-6240) and they were able to do it over the phone!
One other issue I'm trying to figure out ... my battery is going dead just sitting there. No key in the ignition, doors closed, lights off. Used a multimeter to measure the current across the fuses, and I found one on the PSI Conversions harness that's drawing a full amp! According to the docs, it's the fuse feeding the PCM. I have an email in to PSI support, but haven't heard back yet. Any suggestions on why the PCM would be drawing that much just standing still?
edit ... did some more reading and i'm not searching for a parasitic draw properly. Will go out tonight and have another go at it.
The plan was to drive it down to an exhaust shop to get a quote (recommendations welcome). Got the insurance back up (was in a reduced "storage" category) and tried to get the registration updated since I let it lapse for the year+ it was off the road. But ... the online registration only works if your registration is current or no more then a month out. And to get to the DMV in person, you now need an appointment. And appointments are nearly 3 weeks out
edit 2 - While online renewal didn't work, and the state DMV person said I had to go in person, I called the El Paso county DMV number anyway (719-520-6240) and they were able to do it over the phone!
One other issue I'm trying to figure out ... my battery is going dead just sitting there. No key in the ignition, doors closed, lights off. Used a multimeter to measure the current across the fuses, and I found one on the PSI Conversions harness that's drawing a full amp! According to the docs, it's the fuse feeding the PCM. I have an email in to PSI support, but haven't heard back yet. Any suggestions on why the PCM would be drawing that much just standing still?
edit ... did some more reading and i'm not searching for a parasitic draw properly. Will go out tonight and have another go at it.
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- Thread starter
- #86
So went out and checked for parasitic draw the right way. 1.2A between negative cable and the battery post. I pulled every fuse on the whole machine and it didn't twitch.
- Thread starter
- #88
Yea ... pulled that fuse also. I'm gonna start pulling cables off of the positive terminal and see if I missed something.
I don't have much input, but I'm ejoying the ride. Can't wait to see this thing on the trails.
- Thread starter
- #91
Haven't put the front bumper or winch back on yet.
- Thread starter
- #92
I suspect this is kind of like bears and fireworks ... best observed at a distance
- Thread starter
- #93
It moves!
Under it's own power for the first time in over a year. Drove it up and down the road, around the block. Idle is really low and kind kinda lopey - not sure if that's the cam, or just needs a little faster idle.
A few issues of course.
A few codes related to stuff that isn't there - fuel tank pressure, etc. Purge valve as well, which is there.
Speedometer isn't working, which is strange, as nothing should have changed with that.
Tach isn't working either, which isn't a surprise cuz I forgot to hook it up.
Not sure about the fans. I have a blue tooth OBD2 scanner and I got the temp up to 204 and only one fan was running. I think I asked Todd to turn them on 194 and 198, but not sure. Will need to dig into that. I dug out my IR thermometer tonight for a second opinion. The dash temp gauge is parked just above the middle of the range at 205 using the GM sensor.
Transmission feels ok, but I didn't push it yet ... want to make sure the cooling system is ok first.
Under it's own power for the first time in over a year. Drove it up and down the road, around the block. Idle is really low and kind kinda lopey - not sure if that's the cam, or just needs a little faster idle.
A few issues of course.
A few codes related to stuff that isn't there - fuel tank pressure, etc. Purge valve as well, which is there.
Speedometer isn't working, which is strange, as nothing should have changed with that.
Tach isn't working either, which isn't a surprise cuz I forgot to hook it up.
Not sure about the fans. I have a blue tooth OBD2 scanner and I got the temp up to 204 and only one fan was running. I think I asked Todd to turn them on 194 and 198, but not sure. Will need to dig into that. I dug out my IR thermometer tonight for a second opinion. The dash temp gauge is parked just above the middle of the range at 205 using the GM sensor.
Transmission feels ok, but I didn't push it yet ... want to make sure the cooling system is ok first.
- Thread starter
- #95
Probably the cam. Codes are just emissions stuff - fuel tank pressure, purge valve, etc.
- Thread starter
- #96
Did some reading last night and am less concerned about the temperature. Apparently the stock program doesn't engage the fans until about 226. I had Todd reduce the fan engagement temp, but probably not as much as I thought - looking for my notes.
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- #97
Put the PS slider back on so the exhaust shop doesn't build me a system that interferes with it. The took it down to the corner to put some fresh gas in it. Runs well, pulls pretty good, temp stayed under 200. Here are the codes it's showing:
P0140, P0160 - no signal from 2nd O2 sensor on each bank. Because there is no second O2 sensor on this harness, so expected.
P0300 - Misfire on 2 or more cylinders. This one is concerning and wasn't there yesterday when I looked.
P0449 - Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction. Not present on this vehicle or harness.
P0452 - Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input. Again, not present.
P0463 - inaccurate fuel level readings from the fuel level sensor. Again, not present.
So a few DTC that need to be turned off. Suggestions welcome on the P0300. In reading a bit, I see it can be related to timing ... wonder if the new cam is causing issues. Or if I screwed up installing it.
Says it could also be bad fuel. I'm gonna go clear it and take it around the block again since I put in fresh gas.
P0140, P0160 - no signal from 2nd O2 sensor on each bank. Because there is no second O2 sensor on this harness, so expected.
P0300 - Misfire on 2 or more cylinders. This one is concerning and wasn't there yesterday when I looked.
P0449 - Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Valve/Solenoid Circuit Malfunction. Not present on this vehicle or harness.
P0452 - Evaporative Emission Control System Pressure Sensor Low Input. Again, not present.
P0463 - inaccurate fuel level readings from the fuel level sensor. Again, not present.
So a few DTC that need to be turned off. Suggestions welcome on the P0300. In reading a bit, I see it can be related to timing ... wonder if the new cam is causing issues. Or if I screwed up installing it.
Says it could also be bad fuel. I'm gonna go clear it and take it around the block again since I put in fresh gas.
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- Thread starter
- #98
Cleared the codes and took it for a ride. 449, 452, 462 came back but 300, 140, 160 didn't. Not sure why the O2 sensor codes wouldn't have come back, but glad 300 isn't back.
With the O2 code on my 1FZ-FE, I know it won't come back after I clear it until a cold start plus 10+ miles of driving. Of course my issue is just a bad sensor I haven't swapped out yet...
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- #100
Ok, good to know. The other codes didn't come back until a cold start either. But hopefully the P0300 stays away.
The idle is better with the fresh fuel as well - the old fuel was down to where the low fuel lamp was flickering, and it's been in there for about 20+ months. I was considering draining it and putting in fresh from a can before the first start. Probably should have.
