Builds SLOW 71 (1 Viewer)

[J Mack]

Opinions please...

I would make that mount longer across the entire top channel.

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[scrapdaddy]

would make that mount longer across the entire top channel.

Hey Jim, what would that do? Do you mean add more screws along the entire top?

Partsgopher is where I order from. I made a nice large order, but it came from different locations, so they charged me shipping.

 

[J Mack]

Hey Jim, what would that do? Do you mean add more screws along the entire top?

And add more support. I don't think you need rubber on the top, just make it secure.

This is a nice setup, I would build something similar if I needed to make a new mount...

Radiator Mount, Front, 28x19

Engineered radiator mount to use the Griffin 1-00019 type radiator to the original Ibex 1.1 chassis, this is the 2012-2015 and chassis with the tubular style sub-frame. Complete with all mounting brackets, hardware and rubber isolator

goatbuilt.com

 

[bobm]

You found truck didnt you?? You in Jacuzzi

 

[RUSH55]

Could you not just extend your hold-downs to 90° down over the edge 1/2” or so?

 

[RUSH55]

Or maybe…

 

[Ol Yeller]

Or maybe…

View attachment 3233172

The sheet metal holdown seems to be the moder solution doesn’t it?
But I still make most of my brackets like Ron

 

[scrapdaddy]

It's sitting in there nice and very firm, so I'm thinking anymore fasteners would be for looks. I can see where having a bracket all across would help support it, but the screws might still work loose. I do like coming over the back side and attaching to the alum. block. A lot of good ideas and some good thinking for me tonight. I like the idea of having the rubber cushion top and bottom, since my other one cracked after 50, 000 miles. I had it mounted with rubber grommets on each side, just the nature of alum. I guess. I'm not up to par with my alum. radiator experience to know all the ins and outs...yet.

Thanks Guys!

 

[bobm]

Like your idea of small and clean it looks good . Only question is you said your previous mount cracked the Aluminum radiator! Would you be better off Spreading the pressure across the entire top of radiator like @ mr. Potatohead metioned?? (@J Mack )

 

[scrapdaddy]

The last one I had mounts welded to the sides, 4 holes each with rubber grommets. I don't know why it cracked, but thought I'd try this new way of mounting this time.

 

[J Mack]

The last one I had mounts welded to the sides

Not a great idea....

 

[RUSH55]

Not sure if this helps or not - 1999 - 20?? Ford Super Duty radiators are aluminum with clamped plastic tanks on the sides. The bottom fits into a rubber-cushioned, channeled, pocket and the top has two fingers of rubber-cushioned stamped steel that fold over the top edge on each side and attach with a couple of piddly bolts to the upper core support. Super simple. No bolts through the radiator, and have never seen one fall out. Very similar to what @Megadoomer did.
Similar to this universal mount Jegs carries.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I bought a set of those Jegs mounts, but really didn't like them, just seemed to be a sloppy fit and didn't have a good plan to make them work with my setup.

Jim, I don't remember you mentioning that, I thought it was a pretty good fix. I'm not sure what caused the leak, but I wouldn't mount another one exactly the same way again, a couple of the grommets failed over the years.

 

[scrapdaddy]

I'm staying with my radiator mounts as is and maybe modifying them when / if I build a shroud. I did use blue Locktite on the screws and I'll watch them next time out. Getting it all buttoned up with a new water pump as the original pump had @115,000 miles on it and with my luck. I kept going back and forth on new timing gears and chain, but passed, so you know what's going to fail first. I sent the power steering pump back to PSC to rebuild as the steering felt stiff coming home on this last trip. PSC said it was " burnt up " inside? They said turning lock to lock more often will do that. Not to mention I noticed some oil weeping around the clutch fan, so bought a new one of those, too. I'm taking time to go through things now instead of on a trip hopefully.

Next up will be repacking the knuckles and wheel bearings front and rear, changing axle oil, transmission and transfer case oils. After all that I'll jump on the steering column as it was making a rattling noise this past Summer. There's mush more on the list if my wallet holds up. One more " must have " is a Lithium battery / charging system for the frig. I want a stand alone battery just for it. I'm going to pick Gordon's brain for that setup.

Back to work!

 

[bobm]

Way to go Buddy

 

[scrapdaddy]

I had to make some spacers for the overflow tank, so I got to play with my old 12" Craftsman lathe. I know next to nothing on how to operate it, but making simple parts are fun. My Uncle bought it new in the sixties and hardly used it, so when the time came in his life he pasted it down.

 

[bobm]

Will run forever to.

 

[PabloCruise]

PSC said it was " burnt up " inside? They said turning lock to lock more often will do that.

I never knew that happened to PS pumps...

 

[Lifelong40Fan]

Next up will be repacking the knuckles and wheel bearings front and rear,

If decide to remove and replace the rear wheel bearings, make a puller out of a large washer and long bolt. Just finished replacing the rear bearings and seals on my 45. Built this and the bearings came right out with a few 2x4s and a piece of metal strap to pull against.

 

[scrapdaddy]

That's one of the nice things about having a full float rear axle, like the front, servicing is a lot easier.

Diamond full float with RCV chromoly shafts. You can see my sweet powdercoating job on the wheel.