Slippery slope 60 with LM7

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Lucky1386

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Joined
May 5, 2019
Threads
13
Messages
162
Location
Bay area
So decided it would be fun to document my build on my 84 fj60 with a California legal LM7 swap. I purchased it off CL and like to tell myself I got a great deal, but in reality the amount of work this rig needs, its not a good deal at all... I bought it with the intent to make it a family camping rig.

The current rig my family and I use is a first gen 4runner with a mini truck bed as trailer camper setup. It works fairly well but it is tight and struggles tremendously on long fwy uphills. Other than that its incredible where this little rig can get us.
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It seems to have a fair amount of good mods but since I am more of a mini truck guy I am learning my way around this rig.
Here is a list of what it has or least too my knowledge.
LM7 with 4l60e Swap
40gal fuel tank (long range America I think)
OME suspension not sure what kit
Has disc brakes on the rear.
ARB front bumper with warn winch
Rear steel bumper(not sure of brand, I think its Australian)
Red top steering box(might be an 80 series one but don't know)
The interior was redone at some point.
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My ideas or wants
Hoping to really dial in the swap, lots of good parts some very questionable execution.
Fj80 axles
paint and redo the interior with sound deadner.
All new gaskets for exterior.
Remove motor and tranny . reseal everything.
Possibly go 5 speed swap and different transfer case( definitely want opinions on this)
add air compressor
Lots more that I am not thinking of.

Hoping to get started soon on this.
 
the 60 looks clean..
 
So did some digging around under the hood today. I was losing coolant and noticed a spray pattern under the hood and on the firewall, turns out one of the heater hoses was getting dug into by a hose clamp.
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I repaired that and another heater hose that was ran in a way that was going to end up with a puncture. After that I bled the system but oddly enough I. Not getting hot air out of the front dash. It has to be a door blender issue. As I can touch the heater core and it's hot and the rear heater works. Everything seems to moving correctly when I move the levers but I think internally the blend door is not ending up in a way to direct the air thru the heater core. When switichng between hot and cold the air temp only changes ever so slightly. Luckily I intend on ripping apart the whole interior and will figure it out then.

Then I started chasing some random.cables that were run super extra funky and noticed that they were essentially sitting on the catalytic converter. I yanked out what seemed to be wires for flat towing and set the almost melted o2 sensor plug out of the way. Good enough for now.
These were the flat tow wire for lights. Super large wiring. I think it was a home type wire loom.
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Some more pics.
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Next steps are to get 80axles home and start the rebuild on them. Waiting for a couple different quotes and hopefully will have parts in my hand sooner than later. Then I can get to work on doing the front coil swap.

One question that I have that might already be answered here on the thread is that if I want to go to an 80 series steering box and I have an 84 what is the typical protocol? I assuming drilling and sleeving the frame, but is there a thread on this somewhere?
 
“One question that I have that might already be answered here on the thread is that if I want to go to an 80 series steering box and I have an 84 what is the typical protocol? I assuming drilling and sleeving the frame, but is there a thread on this somewhere?”

I’ve asked the same question before .. there no thread that I’m aware of. But yes I’m told it doable by drilling and sleeving holes. Maybe add a plate on the inside?

If you attempt.. please post what you encounter and come up with!
 
“One question that I have that might already be answered here on the thread is that if I want to go to an 80 series steering box and I have an 84 what is the typical protocol? I assuming drilling and sleeving the frame, but is there a thread on this somewhere?”

I’ve asked the same question before .. there no thread that I’m aware of. But yes I’m told it doable by drilling and sleeving holes. Maybe add a plate on the inside?

If you attempt.. please post what you encounter and come up with!
Will do.
 

Mine leaks from time to time there too. I REALLY need to get some new OEM clamps. Looks like you do too.

Dont take this as like factual, im just saying this out of personal observation, but i feel like the GM water pump pumps at a higher PSI than the 2f or 3fe does or something... which means more pressure in the hoses. The radiator cap on the stock 5.3 is like around 16 psi or something. I believe the Rad cap on the fj60 is 13psi.

I know i have a high pressure radiator cap on mine ( 29-31 psi) to try and raise the boiling point of the coolant, and its blowing the seals on a few of my clamps. ESPECIALLY the rear heater hoses on the underside of the truck and the ones in your photo. Im getting to the point where i might just delete the rear heater to not worry about it anymore


Maybe its the radiator cap, but ive talked to a few guys with ls swapped 60s that have some hose leakage here and there. Especially on the rear heater stuff
 
I've owned 1st and second gen so I have a soft spot lol
same, i had a white one. The firstgen 4runner is my favorite toyota of all time. Peak toyota awesomeness. I actually would have one right now and not my fj60 if it wasnt for my wife wanting rear doors. My 60 is the same year and color as my old 4runner haha
 
Mine leaks from time to time there too. I REALLY need to get some new OEM clamps. Looks like you do too.

Dont take this as like factual, im just saying this out of personal observation, but i feel like the GM water pump pumps at a higher PSI than the 2f or 3fe does or something... which means more pressure in the hoses. The radiator cap on the stock 5.3 is like around 16 psi or something. I believe the Rad cap on the fj60 is 13psi.

I know i have a high pressure radiator cap on mine ( 29-31 psi) to try and raise the boiling point of the coolant, and its blowing the seals on a few of my clamps. ESPECIALLY the rear heater hoses on the underside of the truck and the ones in your photo. Im getting to the point where i might just delete the rear heater to not worry about it anymore


Maybe its the radiator cap, but ive talked to a few guys with ls swapped 60s that have some hose leakage here and there. Especially on the rear heater stuff

Constant tension ones are the goat. Used by plenty of OEMs
 

Constant tension ones are the goat. Used by plenty of OEMs
I might give those a shot, im going to toss an 18 psi cap on there first to see if it helps any haha i feel like im way over pressurized
 
I might give those a shot, im going to toss an 18 psi cap on there first to see if it helps any haha i feel like im way over pressurized
You guys see the top of his radiator looks like the cap or something has been leaking for a while or is just me?
 
I think I have a 15psi but my test runs are super short
FSR Said my cap was a 30 lb cap but I just looked and its stamped 20 on the top. 18 is like 6 bucks so im going to give it a shot
You guys see the top of his radiator looks like the cap or something has been leaking for a while or is just me?
Just went back and looked and youre right. I cant tell if its coming from the cap or from the overflow hose but its for sure leaking quite a bit. Might be time for @Lucky1386 to get a new cap as well.

Ive been chatting with him and hes got quite the uphill battle of redos of the P.O. on his plate haha
 

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