Slee4+1 w/ Bilstein 7100s

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It's very surprising to me that you're experiencing heim joint noise after a short time! Normally, it take lots of road grime, mud and crud to get to this stage or so I thought.

yeah I'm not sure Ali, we were checking for noises and noticed that when Dale was jumping on the rear bumper, I could feel just a bit of play in the top/rear heim with my finger on it.

Now I am not sure if it is the actual heim or the bolt- maybe I need to get a bolt that has less threading and more shaft. I am thinking the heim is on the threaded part and allowing a bit of play? meaning it is more likely the bolt diameter rather than the actual heim itself if I'm being clear...

At this point it is not a lot of noise. only hitting bumps sometimes minor noise.
I don't mind the heims, I was more worried that I forgot to tighten something else...since I did the lift and shocks at the same time, there are a lot of new bolts under there!:grinpimp:
 
Im using shoulder bolts , 2" of shank and 3/4" thread.
I not hearing noise , but I think its transmitting just a little more through the heim ,vs. bushings.

ken
 
Ken, thanks! I'll check to see what I have. Definitely heims transmit more noise - but they are still kinda cool. I think they are more reliable ? (won't crack, compress, split, etc).

Look fwd to your ideas as well! :cheers: I don't think the rear resivoir is a big deal. It might be cooler on the body as is. The front is what seems to be less than ideal currently.
 
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heims will transmit more noise but if you're using poly or rubber shock bushings for the studs (front top shock mount), you shouldn't really feel much IMO. At least, I don't feel anything discernible anyway. I"m using OME shock bushings on front top mount location.
 
ali, thanks I might try that and just run the heim
 
another update-
Rick finished his front resiv mount. Mine will be similar but probably parallel to the shock on the opposite side of the coil- as I have 2 90degree fittings (I'll update w/ I do it)

The issue is at full lock/compression - you may rub the hose- depending on how it's routed. So this clears that up.

HEims- no noise really- my issue was a loose panhard rod adjustable locknut! hehe
Valving- empty w/ my setup the front rebound is a tad high. With Load-it works nicely. If you have a empty truck w/ minimal armor, I would try 360 or 380/100 instead of 400/100.
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Altho I searched, this is unclear and a bit confusing- please tell me if the diagrams and my assumptions are correct

1. only the driveshaft-FRONT DC DRIVESHAFT- the ends should be OUT of phase
REAR- the ends should be IN phase

2. FRONT DC Driveshaft IN RELATION to Rear should the ends that meet the Transfer Case be IN or OUT of phase? or does it matter?

3. ANGLE FRONT DC Driveshaft- PINION ANGLE-points UP to TC.
REAR DRIVESHAFT- both ends should be parallel

thanks for the help, i'm visual so the stupid diagrams help me.
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Altho I searched, this is unclear and a bit confusing- please tell me if the diagrams and my assumptions are correct

1. only the driveshaft-FRONT DC DRIVESHAFT- the ends should be OUT of phase
REAR- the ends should be IN phase

On a DC shaft the two ends shown should be in phase

2. FRONT DC Driveshaft IN RELATION to Rear should the ends that meet the Transfer Case be IN or OUT of phase? or does it matter?

It doesn't matter. If they were in phase or out after install they would move in relation to each other as you drive. That's because the only time the two drive shafts move in unison is with the center diff locked. Otherwise they move independent.

3. ANGLE FRONT DC Driveshaft- PINION ANGLE-points UP to TC.
REAR DRIVESHAFT- both ends should be parallel


Yes
 
Thanks Rick/Landtank for the confirmation.

thanks to cruiserdrew, this is where I screwed up- the STOCK front DS is 90 degrees OUT of Phase. (refer to diagrams on post #90)

The Double Cardan Front DS is supossed to be mounted IN Phase.
I copied the stock ds and mounted it OUT...that was my mistake.

Thanks to Ali for sending me pics, I'll post this as a great reference. Sometimes a picture is worth 1000 words.

well i'm embarassed to say i had the DS mounted correctly afterall and it's my tires most likely... truck feels "lumpy" at higher speed, maybe a tire out of balance...
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?p=2510628#post2510628

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You're welcome for the pics. I'm dying to know if this cures your ill!
 
update on noise/vibe issue- it was a combination of things but my slider was touching the body and causing the rattling and vib feeling in the floor. I adjusted and it's gone. Just goes to show you can't assume it's one thing!
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adjustable bumpstops

Rick/Inverness has been running theseAdjustable Universal Bumpstops and they seem pretty ideal. You can fine-tune exactly how much bump you need or adj for different shocks.
Rick helped me make some today and now i'm all set. (that's my sloppy welding, not Rick's!)

You cut the shaft to length and weld onto a plate and bolt on to factory location.
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Slee HD tie & relay rods w/ new oem ends
added protection and compensation for the bigger tires
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Final Chapter!

It's finally done, relocated the front resivoirs and everything is done! It's been drawn out but hopefully this helps and a jumping off point for anyone considering the Slee lift and/or different shocks :cheers:

The clamps are cool surplus ones Rick found. There is plenty of room to drill a bolt on the pass side. Driver's side, I used a existing empty nut to mount.

Resivoirs are now completely out of the way and also out of the path of engine bay heat.

Slee4+1 w/ 7100's - end of story!:beer:
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Nice job man!

And thanks for all the tips and ideas.

ken
 
Excellent, really nice setup.
 
Thanks, this thread is hugely informative and an excellent reference point for all who wish to go the custom route. :cheers:
 
Good job James, the truck looks fantastic, your post is a great resources for whoever wants to tackle this type of project.
 
OK....I have run several different Tacomas and am new to the Cruisers. I recently purchased a 97 LX450 and will be looking to lift it soon. I think I might go with the OME 4-5" COMP springs with 7100s and it seems like 400/100 shock valving would be really stiff.
 
what will the weight be at both ends?
what type of handling do you want?
these are rhetorical questions you should ask yourself.
try 360/80 or something softer and go from there - post up your valving and weight specs when you're done, it could help others as well :cheers:
 
Thanks! I'm sure I won't get it perfect the 1st time and will have to tweak it. All part of the fun.
 

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