Slee4+1 w/ Bilstein 7100s

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that's sweet man. So simple yet so effective.
 
Mike, awesome work- looks like you've been cranking :cool: I need to scope this out too- good solution
 
Very nice job guys looks cool:cheers:
Sam
 
Gave the 400/135 a workout over the weekend and it was a very nice ride with a loaded rig. I'll drive her around while empty to see how the ride quality is. So far, only the rear shocks are 400/135. The fronts will be somewhere at 400/125ish.

Just another feedback.
 
Thanks to Rick (inverness) and Mike (clownmidget) I got my shocks sorted out pretty well!

I documented the steps to change the hoses (or revalve) to take the mystery out of it. it is really simple and I changed all the hoses without removing the shocks from the truck.

Pics-
1- loosen the resivoir
2- let the nitro out of the shock
3- unbolt from body of shock and drain excess oil
4- bolt up the new hose to the resivoir, fill w/ oil (tap the cylinder to release air bubbles)
5- screw back onto main body
6- mount it up done!
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cont'd more pics
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The 90 degree fittings did the trick and cleared up the clearance issues at the front and back.
Rick & Mike found them for a super price too- about $16 so it's great!

You need a special valve tool and of course nitrogen. I am about at 210psi which I think is factory spec
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here's a couple pics of Clownmidget's lower mounts
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OH YEAH!!

Looking killer fo shezzey!

How long is that "cool guy" custom hose? And what did they charge you for it?

Keep on trucking.....

ken
 
better pics of upper rear mounts

had these off to change out the hosing so here are better pics. The key point is that the reservoir will fit through them so the shock can be removed or installed intact. Thanks Rick! :cheers:
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I'm digging the bllinging hose, very nice!
 
Ali, thanks for all the help and feedback!

Ken,
The stainless steel hose is about 20" long. The rear could be a bit shorter but there is no issue w/ the current length.

Rick got a few different sizes and was nice enough to get these for me too, they were only around $16 per hose. Mike used some 45 degree joints for his application.

I can cover them to keep the bling undercover! :grinpimp: the one photo shows what happens when you try to loosen the hose and forget to de-pressurize first! Spray!:rolleyes: hehe

I am thinking of moving the resivoirs in front of or on top of the coils tower- I figure it will be away from the heat and also spray from the tires... we shall see another day!
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Update-
Thanks to Dale, I chased down most of my squeeks and rattles. The remaining bit of noise, I believe, is the heims. But, that's why people say hiems are noisy and why all production vehicles use bushings... anyway, Rick is thinking of going all-bushing w/ the bushings listed on page 1. I may follow suit too.

the front resivoir we are looking to make a bracket and mount it forward (red arrow) on the frontside of the coilspring.

advantages- 1. out of the path of the engine heat 2.out of the way of potential suspension collision w/ axle parts 3. away from debris spray of tire

rear resivoir we are looking at possible frame mounting the resivoirs and also deflector plates (design brainstorming at the moment w/ some good ideas)


Also tried to install the 4x4Labs 1 ton relay and tie rod. I am debating whether I should use more time for this or just go to Slee. If you want to save a lot of time, just get the SLEE tie/relay rod kit!! Dammit, I wish I had! I'll update later...
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Keep it coming,

I believe I will be going all bushings as well.
I also need to work something better for the front res.

ken
 
It's very surprising to me that you're experiencing heim joint noise after a short time! Normally, it take lots of road grime, mud and crud to get to this stage or so I thought.
 
Mike, not only are the brackets nice looking, they appear to be sitting on a pretty slick rear bumper.
 
Mike-I thought you were selling the truck and moving to some gawd awful place back east.

Nice job on the mount though for the next owner.:flipoff2:
 

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