Slave cylinder adjustment clarification (2 Viewers)

[65swb45]

I'm not home with the slave cylinder but how are they assembled or what keeps the piston in? The schematics i've seen and rebuild kits show two seals on the piston but don't show anything on how it's assembled. Does the piston somehow just sit in cylinder?

Do I need to unhook the line to the master, try and push the piston back in and put it back on the bellhousing. Then install the hydraulic line and bleed?

It can’t be that far off. Can’t. That’s a rabbit hole you don’t need to go down. If you’re not comfortable with grinding a little off the tip, take a die and put a few more threads on the rod. M10x1.25.

Over the last four decades I’ve probably had half a dozen trucks that needed custom length rods. I’ve never had an issue with making one. I’ve only had the satisfaction of knowing that all the clearances were correct.

 

[bhsdriller]

Works for me I should be able to handle that.

Thanks!

 

[CruiserTrash]

I'm not home with the slave cylinder but how are they assembled or what keeps the piston in? The schematics i've seen and rebuild kits show two seals on the piston but don't show anything on how it's assembled. Does the piston somehow just sit in cylinder?

Do I need to unhook the line to the master, try and push the piston back in and put it back on the bellhousing. Then install the hydraulic line and bleed?

That seems like probably the right move. You could maybe use some vice grips to clamp off the hose while you work. Whenever I open a new slave cylinder box, the rod wants to pop out, so I think the only thing holding it in (and holding the piston in) is the friction of the o-ring. Again, that doesn't seem to fully hold it in for me.

I don't know about this chopping or threading custom length rod stuff. Obviously @65swb45 has far more experience than I do, but I've never heard of a slave cylinder for a 60 not fitting right out of the box. I would think the fact that it doesn't fit is pointing to another issue and instead of making a workaround, why don't you find what the actual issue is, ya know? Heck, maybe it's a manufacturing flaw. Certainly the rods look identical though. From your photo it looks like your current adjustment is almost 1" different than your old adjustment. And the way you're having to set the new rod, it seems like the rod is sticking too far out of the cylinder versus the old one. I think something is causing that. You didn't change the throwout bearing. You didn't change your pedal adjustment - even if the pedal adjustment were wrong you'd think the new slave would wind up near to the old slave's adjustment.

Is the cylinder bolted to the bellhousing correctly? Maybe there's another hole that could let you place the cylinder in the wrong spot. I don't recall that being the case, but who knows.

 

[bhsdriller]

Mounting is the same can't really mess that up. If anything i'll shorten the old one and keep the new.

Have some stuff to try after work will report back

 

[Paullus]

Hi. I have a May 1984 FJ60. I just installed a new master and slave for the clutch a couple of weeks ago. I set up the nuts on the slave push rod the same as the old one (almost to the end). However, I was getting the same noise you described when the clutch was in neutral. The end cone nut is pretty firm against the clutch release fork with the spring off. I had to unmount the slave to be able to adjust the nuts. I backed them off about 1/2" and now the release fork can move back and forth when the spring isn't on.

I put the spring back on then tested the clutch. At first the pedal was way to soft but then pedal firmed up. I was able to shift into 1st and reverse and move the vehicle with no problem. But in neutral, the noise is still there. I could feel the vibrations in the stick before but now I barely feel them. I put my hand on the 4WD stick, which I never have done before, and definitely feel the vibration. I guess I should take off the bell housing and take a look.

Anyways I still have plenty of thread left on the push rod.

 

[bhsdriller]

Messed with it last night for a bit and think it could be an air bleeding problem.

I have a SS hose between the master and slave instead of the stock hardline. So kept it plumbed in and pulled the slave so I could take a look. Pushed the piston back in and it let me install and adjust it just fine with plenty of room. But when I actuated clutch with pedal the piston doesn't seem to retract and i'm back to where I was before with no play.