SL, C, or E rated tires for mild overland build? LX570 (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Mar 19, 2024
Threads
1
Messages
8
Location
Wisconsin
Toyo AT3. 285 70-17. Method 703 wheels. LX570. Going to be 80% hwy with some off road trips, national parks, transamerica trail, etc. No hardcore rock crawling. I will eventually add skids and rails and probably a covert winch. Will air down on occasion to whatever extent I can safely with the methods bead grip. Occassionally pull a small pop up.

Guys at tire shop are recommending the SL. I think the E is more stiffness than I need. I thought the C was a good compromise, but they said there is nothing to gain, and the cost is more.

Input please?
 
my use case is similar but now I am fully armored and heavy.
I went E rated tires (Cooper)...

I see no reason for an SL other than a pure asphalt truck, might as well keep the stock tires.
 
Last edited:
On the AT3 specifically, the tread pattern on the SLs is less aggressive than the LTs for what that is worth.
When I think overland build, I think of carrying a lot of stuff over rough roads and uncertain conditions. Personally on the LC that pushes me to an E.
 
I recommend Load Range E since you mention overland build and that Load Range C tires (same brand/type) are more expensive which is ridiculous to me (likely due to being far less common and lacking demand compared to D/E).

All of my trucks run Load Range E and for reference the Land Cruiser is every bit as heavy/heavier than some 1/2 ton pickups. It’s a heavy pig and then we add weight to it with mods.


Stiffness and ride quality are of course more with E vs SL or C, but how it feels to each person is subjective. On mine Es ride fine on pavement whether loaded down or daily driving. I like the firmer feel (LT285/65R-18 BFG AT KO2 at 42psi), but again—someone else may feel that it is too stiff.

Of course when loaded down and off pavement I appreciate the stouter tire and the load capacity.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
A large percentage of non-HD pickup people that "need" e-load LT's would actually fare better with SL tires. ~10% better mileage, lighter tire/wheel package and lower required pressures allowing much better ride quality (especially with stock suspension), with plenty of durability for off-highway travel. But, many actively seek out overkill, and that's what an e-load on our vehicles usually is.

Lots of discussion on the topic here:

 
I replaced some Wildpeak AT3s SL with the Toyo AT3 SL. The tread wore fast, they were noiser and traction was worse. I just put on Wildpeak AT4s in SL rating.

If I did Toyo again I'd get C or E, but I've been so happy with Falkens I am likely going to keep going back to them.
 
Last edited:
(insert old man voice).

I have been driving LC long than many people on the 200 forum has been alive. That said, used to do SL tire back in the day in the 60 series. Then E became all the rage, and I have done k02 for longer than I care to admit on all my trucks. Really liked everything it does, except the noisiness when its starts wearing and "roar roar" on the highway. I used to think that was normal.

This go around, when I was building my poverty spec 200, I went with lighter wheels, narrower tires, and per @bloc and many others advice, I actually listened to their advice, instead of ordering K03 and for the first time in my life went away from E rated to a SL.

My use case is the same as @nickwisconsin probably with higher offroad here in the SW, Utah, Colorado, NM.

I have been over the moon with the performance of my General Grabber ATX. It has done all I asked. I think the capability off road could be slightly better, but given the amazing highway manners, and low noise, SL is what I really need.

Good luck.
 
Similar use case here. 285/75R17 load range E Cooper AT3 XLT had an unbearable ride quality on my LX570. Amazingly, shockingly poor, so much that I went through the suspension replacing things that probably didn't need replacing. Ended up replacing them with load range C Toyo AT3 before they were worn out, and it's like a different vehicle entirely. I do miss the sidewall stiffness on curvy roads but will gladly trade that off for the monumental improvement in ride quality. I carry a full size spare and an ARB plug kit.

After going through this I think internet research is fairly worthless, and you just have to try different tires and see what works for you. Stiffness of load range E likely varies from brand to brand, model to model. Also, when you read or hear someone say "tire X rides good", or "tire Y rides bad", you don't know what their background or experience or ride quality preferences are, or how sensitive they are to suspension characteristics, or what road quality they are on, or what else on their vehicle could be affecting things.
 
Similar use case here. 285/75R17 load range E Cooper AT3 XLT had an unbearable ride quality on my LX570. Amazingly, shockingly poor, so much that I went through the suspension replacing things that probably didn't need replacing. Ended up replacing them with load range C Toyo AT3 before they were worn out, and it's like a different vehicle entirely. I do miss the sidewall stiffness on curvy roads but will gladly trade that off for the monumental improvement in ride quality. I carry a full size spare and an ARB plug kit.

After going through this I think internet research is fairly worthless, and you just have to try different tires and see what works for you. Stiffness of load range E likely varies from brand to brand, model to model. Also, when you read or hear someone say "tire X rides good", or "tire Y rides bad", you don't know what their background or experience or ride quality preferences are, or how sensitive they are to suspension characteristics, or what road quality they are on, or what else on their vehicle could be affecting things.
Just to add to the discussion, not all "Load E" tires are the same, even within the same brand. Some reach design/max load at 65 psi and some reach design/max load at 80 psi. Tire pressure for your specific tire and vehicle also plays a huge role in overall handling and feel.

member gaijin is really helpful with recommended tire pressure for specific tires. There are charts that you can reference to determine recommended tire pressures. Just know that your door sticker is not applicable when you change tire/wheel specs, it is only applicable to the stock config.
 
(insert old man voice).

I have been driving LC long than many people on the 200 forum has been alive. That said, used to do SL tire back in the day in the 60 series. Then E became all the rage, and I have done k02 for longer than I care to admit on all my trucks. Really liked everything it does, except the noisiness when its starts wearing and "roar roar" on the highway. I used to think that was normal.

This go around, when I was building my poverty spec 200, I went with lighter wheels, narrower tires, and per @bloc and many others advice, I actually listened to their advice, instead of ordering K03 and for the first time in my life went away from E rated to a SL.

My use case is the same as @nickwisconsin probably with higher offroad here in the SW, Utah, Colorado, NM.

I have been over the moon with the performance of my General Grabber ATX. It has done all I asked. I think the capability off road could be slightly better, but given the amazing highway manners, and low noise, SL is what I really need.

Good luck.
Yeah I am an old guy too and have never given much thought about car or truck tires since I am new to overlanding. I have given motorcycle tires a lot of thought over the year, but with $1500 for a set of 5 tires, I certainly don't want to buy the wrong thing. You happy with the SL rated?
 
(insert old man voice).

I have been driving LC long than many people on the 200 forum has been alive. That said, used to do SL tire back in the day in the 60 series. Then E became all the rage, and I have done k02 for longer than I care to admit on all my trucks. Really liked everything it does, except the noisiness when its starts wearing and "roar roar" on the highway. I used to think that was normal.

This go around, when I was building my poverty spec 200, I went with lighter wheels, narrower tires, and per @bloc and many others advice, I actually listened to their advice, instead of ordering K03 and for the first time in my life went away from E rated to a SL.

My use case is the same as @nickwisconsin probably with higher offroad here in the SW, Utah, Colorado, NM.

I have been over the moon with the performance of my General Grabber ATX. It has done all I asked. I think the capability off road could be slightly better, but given the amazing highway manners, and low noise, SL is what I really need.

Good luck.
Agree, but I reiterate that I'd avoid the Toyo in SL from personal experience. Decent ride and mileage, but poor tread wear and traction was so-so. Havent tried the ATX, but had some old SL Grabbers on my 4th gen 4runner and they were amazing and lasted a long time.
 
Ooh a tire thread.

Let me just piss everyone off at once. The 200 stock cant handle E tires. Sorry.

If you upgrade suspension go for it. If not C load. How do i know? I ran both sets of that exact tire. SL and C.

SL is a waste of life.
just trust me bro, im the smartest guy here.
 
Ooh a tire thread.

Let me just piss everyone off at once. The 200 stock cant handle E tires. Sorry.

If you upgrade suspension go for it. If not C load. How do i know? I ran both sets of that exact tire. SL and C.

SL is a waste of life.
just trust me bro, im the smartest guy here.
Thanks brother! I am glad to meet the smartest guy here. It will save me time if I have any more questions.
 
Reinforcing what several people have already said.

Get the SL if you're rarely off-road. As an AT tire, it'll be easily be up to task of going off-road and do everything well without as much compromise on-road including comfort and MPG.

If you tow, have a built rig, and will regularly go off-road, definitely get an LT type tire. Often it has the benefits of deeper and more aggressive tread to the comparable SL tire. If the tire size you're looking at as an LT-C option, definitely get that. You won't be giving up anything to the LT-E including durability. With benefits to comfort and traction (yes traction as more pliable tires equals more traction). The only advantage of LT-E is that it has the structural headroom (stronger belts/cords) for higher pressures (beyond 65PSI). Something that no 200-series will ever leverage.
 
Last edited:
Thanks brother! I am glad to meet the smartest guy here. It will save me time if I have any more questions.

No problem.
It'll save a ton of time over searching for and reading the exact thing you asked about too.
 
No problem.
It'll save a ton of time over searching for and reading the exact thing you asked about too.

No problem.
It'll save a ton of time over searching for and reading the exact thing you asked about too.
Why don't you do a search for a similar question and get back to me with the links? My guess is THIS thread will come up. Any tire threads go off the rails on tire sizes, what tires to get, which tires won't rub. If there is info like what I am asking, it is pretty buried. I do appreciate your advice, and the suggestion is well taken despite the sarcasm that came along with it.
 
Similar use case here. 285/75R17 load range E Cooper AT3 XLT had an unbearable ride quality on my LX570. Amazingly, shockingly poor, so much that I went through the suspension replacing things that probably didn't need replacing. Ended up replacing them with load range C Toyo AT3 before they were worn out, and it's like a different vehicle entirely. I do miss the sidewall stiffness on curvy roads but will gladly trade that off for the monumental improvement in ride quality. I carry a full size spare and an ARB plug kit.

After going through this I think internet research is fairly worthless, and you just have to try different tires and see what works for you. Stiffness of load range E likely varies from brand to brand, model to model. Also, when you read or hear someone say "tire X rides good", or "tire Y rides bad", you don't know what their background or experience or ride quality preferences are, or how sensitive they are to suspension characteristics, or what road quality they are on, or what else on their vehicle could be affecting things.
Yeah. That is pretty much where I was at. I searched for a few hours and just when I thought I was getting some info, it went sideways. Problem is for $300 a tire X a set of 5, I don't really want to experiment more than necessary. I thought C was a good compromise and was ready to order, but the tire shop guys thought I was nuts not to run SL
 
(insert old man voice).

I have been driving LC long than many people on the 200 forum has been alive. That said, used to do SL tire back in the day in the 60 series. Then E became all the rage, and I have done k02 for longer than I care to admit on all my trucks. Really liked everything it does, except the noisiness when its starts wearing and "roar roar" on the highway. I used to think that was normal.

This go around, when I was building my poverty spec 200, I went with lighter wheels, narrower tires, and per @bloc and many others advice, I actually listened to their advice, instead of ordering K03 and for the first time in my life went away from E rated to a SL.

My use case is the same as @nickwisconsin probably with higher offroad here in the SW, Utah, Colorado, NM.

I have been over the moon with the performance of my General Grabber ATX. It has done all I asked. I think the capability off road could be slightly better, but given the amazing highway manners, and low noise, SL is what I really need.

Good luck.

As an even older guy, these are words of wisdom.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom