kcjaz
SILVER Star
No issues with removing the fuel skid with transfer skid installed as others have said. There is one bolt that connect the two skids. It’s a pain to install and many leave it off anyway.
Skid plates (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Ali M
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- armor budbuilt skid plate
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CharlieS
GOLD Star
This probably isn’t going to be an issue for wiseinvestor, since they mentioned the factory fuel skid. I believe that bolt connecting the skids only comes into play if you are attaching the Budbuilt fuel skid to the Budbuilt transfer skid.
kcjaz
SILVER Star
Agreed. I missed the factory skid part of the thread. Never mind….
wiseinvestor
GOLD Star
Thanks guys. I purchased Front, Engine, Transmission, Transfer and Fuel skids from bb. I just needed to break the install into a few different sessions due to time.
My plan is as follows
1. Remove factory parts (minus fuel skid), modify heat shield, install Bud Build crossmember.
2. Install Engine, Trans, Transfer, Front. Replace factory valences
3. Replace factory fuel skid with BB fuel skid,
I didn't want to be driving around without the factory fuel skid on... thus the reason for my question. Sry for any confusion.
My plan is as follows
1. Remove factory parts (minus fuel skid), modify heat shield, install Bud Build crossmember.
2. Install Engine, Trans, Transfer, Front. Replace factory valences
3. Replace factory fuel skid with BB fuel skid,
I didn't want to be driving around without the factory fuel skid on... thus the reason for my question. Sry for any confusion.
Not sure what the install constraints are, but I installed the whole shebang solo in my driveway with nothing but one jack stand. Probably took about 4 hours. I would highly recommend watching the install video, think it’s about an hour long, prior to install. It’s super helpful.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
What is involved with “modify heat shield”? If you are leaving the factory fuel skid on, it has an integral metal heat shield. You can just omit the Budbuilt heat shield until you install the Budbuilt fuel tank skid…
Modifying it was 15 minutes with a angle grinder and some spray paint if I recall correctly.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
Ohhh, I’ve got you. Thanks. You are referring to the metal shield where the new cross member mounts. Pro tip: if you have a air powered body saw, it is a two minute job.
wiseinvestor
GOLD Star
You are more of a man than I am. I always seem to take 2-3x the average of the guys who post how long it took them for any given job. I did watch the video and it was super helpful.
wiseinvestor
GOLD Star
Yep. I did it with a rotozip... easy peasy.
RET2
SILVER Star
It's not a race, enjoy the task, stop for a break or adult beverage, although I have found the one when the task is finished always tastes best. After all they say the journey can equal the destination. BTW there is a world of difference in weight between aluminum or steel or stainless.
wiseinvestor
GOLD Star
Yep. I opted for a mix.
wiseinvestor
GOLD Star
Anyone have any concerns with the bolts facing the fuel tank on the fuel tank skid?
The bolt on lower end of the rear strap is super close (millimeters) to the fuel tank.
I'm considering taking the skid down tomorrow and facing the bolt outward away from the tank. The youtube video he faces the bolts inward.
Thoughts appreciated.
Thanks
The bolt on lower end of the rear strap is super close (millimeters) to the fuel tank.
I'm considering taking the skid down tomorrow and facing the bolt outward away from the tank. The youtube video he faces the bolts inward.
Thoughts appreciated.
Thanks
kcjaz
SILVER Star
I can get the tip of my finger between the bolt and the tank. So maybe 1/4” or a little more. It’s tucked up there so I think hitting that location hard enough to bend the skid and put the bolt into the tank hard enough to puncture it isn’t very likely.
the only issue I see with flipping the carriage bolt around is the I don’t think the bracket has a slot for the square part of the carriage bolt. You might have to use A hex head and two wrenches and that might be difficult to do.
I would not loose sleep over this.
CharlieS
GOLD Star
It is entirely possible to bend a fuel skid that far if you try (or don't try, to sure which applies). I'd listen to your gut and modify it to what seems reasonable to you. Then again, I may be misunderstanding the dimension you are ddealing with (maybe horizontal movement versus vertical) or materials (steel vs. aluminum). It may be great the way it is.
wiseinvestor
GOLD Star
Thank you both for your feedback. It's less than a 1/4 and at an angle towards the tank. Skid is Aluminum. I will check on the carriage bolt slot.
Thanks again!
One of the cross factory m8 bolts on the front crossmember was broken off clean by the previous owner or a service tech and left for me to fight out.
Once that little booger is sorted I will refocus my attention back to the fuel skid.
Thanks again!
One of the cross factory m8 bolts on the front crossmember was broken off clean by the previous owner or a service tech and left for me to fight out.
Once that little booger is sorted I will refocus my attention back to the fuel skid.
wiseinvestor
GOLD Star
Sent an email to tech@budbuilt about the bolt. Bud responded and told me the round smooth head of the bolt should be toward the tank. He said the video was wrong and that my concern was justified. I will be loosening the fuel skid and getting it turned around.
Last edited:
afgman786
SILVER Star
Was going to say facing out is safer. Don't know what kind of wheeling you do, but the gas tank skid is the easiest of all the budbuilt skids to bend.
kcjaz
SILVER Star
For grins, tonight I thought I's see how much the BB fuel tank skid deflects by positioning my floor jack under the rear bolts in question and then lifting the truck off the ground with the jack. The bolt by the RLCA doesn't budge. I can get my finger between the bolt and the fuel tank when the truck is on the ground and with the rear passenger tire off the ground and the weight on the jack directly under the bolt, I can still get my finger in between the bolt and the tank.
The other side, by the drive shaft start much closer to the tank and the skid plate does deflect at that location to the point where the bolt comes in contact with the tank but just barely. When set back down the plate springs back to the original position.
Like I said, this was just for grins. I didn't think the 3/16" SS skid would deflect that much on a controlled lift from a jack but my test shows that at it would be possible to land on a rock in a way that could put the bolt into the tank. I think the probability is low and I do not think it would puncture the tank but there is no reason not to flip the bolt around to eliminate the potential of that happening. I will flip mine round.
@wiseinvestor, thanks for posting the question and checking with BB.
The other side, by the drive shaft start much closer to the tank and the skid plate does deflect at that location to the point where the bolt comes in contact with the tank but just barely. When set back down the plate springs back to the original position.
Like I said, this was just for grins. I didn't think the 3/16" SS skid would deflect that much on a controlled lift from a jack but my test shows that at it would be possible to land on a rock in a way that could put the bolt into the tank. I think the probability is low and I do not think it would puncture the tank but there is no reason not to flip the bolt around to eliminate the potential of that happening. I will flip mine round.
@wiseinvestor, thanks for posting the question and checking with BB.
wiseinvestor
GOLD Star
That is very interesting. Thanks for relaying your findings. I'm flipping my bolt around as well. Peace of mind.
