Should I remove OEM floor tar before installing carpet? (1 Viewer)

[aviafx]

Hey all -

Just got a carpet kit from @dnp and based on threads here, I get the idea that most pull up the OEM tar floor stuff before laying down dynamat/fatmat/kilmat/noico/ butyl sound insulation. Does the new butyl stuff not stick to it? I have access to dry ice (transport blood for work) so hammering the old stuff out isn't an issue, I'm just curious if there's any benefit to pulling it out.

 

[dnp]

Hey all -

Just got a carpet kit from @dnp and based on threads here, I get the idea that most pull up the OEM tar floor stuff before laying down dynamat/fatmat/kilmat/noico/ butyl sound insulation. Does the new butyl stuff not stick to it? I have access to dry ice (transport blood for work) so hammering the old stuff out isn't an issue, I'm just curious if there's any benefit to pulling it out.

Yeah, if you have easy access to dry ice and can get it up without a lot of hassle, I would. Chances are, being underneath the carpet you'd never have an issue with it coming loose from the factory insulation, but it WILL be double or better thickness wherever you've put the sound insulation over the OEM insulation. I think it'd make for a "cleaner" installation with only the aftermarket sound insulation on the floor.

dnp

 

[cruiserpilot]

Does the new butyl stuff not stick to it?

No it won't stick. Removing the old stuff and then cleaning the steel with paint thinner will give your new sound
deadener the proper adhesion. It will also allow you to clean up all the rust better.
I just did a thread here a couple of months ago.

 

[Richfj60]

The dry ice method is awesome, but you'll need lots of it. I'm going to finish up tomorrow and I've used 4 blocks so far at $12 per block. Good news is that it pops right off with little effort.

 

[IslandJ]

I put cruisercrap over the stock sound deadener and it stuck great after cleaning everything with citrus degreased. My floors looked super clean with no damage or discoloration like I’ve seen on other rigs. That’s just my experience tho.

 

[FJACS]

I’ve found the factory deadener in the cargo and rear seat areas always seems to hold on, but the driver and passenger foot wells come out in big chunks with minimal effort.

 

[brownbear]

I think the main concern of cleaning is the drivers foot well. That is where you may find hidden rust or such, that needs to be cleaned and treated.

Personally if you can clean the stock floor enough for adhesion I would leave it in. Any tool marks like scratches and such need to be painted if you make them, so they don't rust too.

I like the idea of sound deadening, but in foot wells you have to make them water proof too, so the water cannot just "sit" in there not drying. So any foil type deadening if you have seams need to be all taped so water can sit on it, and not leak down to the metal. So it can air dry.

 

[aviafx]

Thanks for the responses. The front passenger and rear passenger area factory stuff is solid and seems okay, but the driver well and half the cargo area are soft and beat up a bit. Been awhile since I pulled the carpet but I remember the old carpet stuck to it real well in those areas. Adding removal to the list of projects!

 

[cruiserpilot]

This is fully sound deadened, and sealed with tape. I did utilize rust converter on the drivers floor, then spray 3 coats
of an oil enamel spray over that before I laid down the sound deadener. But I was aware that it has to be sealed as stated
above to prevent water from getting through to the metal floor.
I figure since I drive a Land Cruiser that wet floors, and having to pull carpet and dry floors is a fact of life.
check the signature line below and see the whole process

 

[Elbert]

a couple of questions:

(1) where can you generally find dry ice to purchase?

(2) whats the process of using it...to get the tar crap off the floor?

My carpet is gone and I'm going to install a rubber floor mat, but I want to deal with the tar type material on the floorboard areas.

 

[jamesg]

a couple of questions:

(1) where can you generally find dry ice to purchase?

(2) whats the process of using it...to get the tar crap off the floor?

My carpet is gone and I'm going to install a rubber floor mat, but I want to deal with the tar type material on the floorboard areas.

I know in the Denver area most of our grocery stores carry it and in freezers at the front of the stores, (Kroger here). This is something I plan on doing as well.

 

[jamesg]

Cruiserpilot, Pretty funny the comment you made about previous owners and rust control or lack of; you're right it isn't that hard. The previous owner of my 87 cut the rear crossmember off, presumably for an aftermarket bumper. (The engineers did not put it there arbitrarily.) My apologies for the hijack.

 

[Felix Spain]

Update, sorry I didn't notice that this was in the 60 series. I was talking about a HDJ100 so I will move this question to the 100 series forum. Ignore below.

Hi to collect some more information on the tar in the cargo area. I just took out the trunk carpet to put a new one in. Some of the tar has become soft/sticky/oily and was stuck to the carpet (and will stick to the new carpet). Most of it is still solid but some areas have "melted". So I am thinking about removing the tar or at least the sections that have become soft/sticky. I have the following questions:

- Will removing it make a big difference to sound insulation?
- Any other issues with removing it (it seems to come off with a plastic scraper)?
- Is there a way to reseal the tar / make it hard again?

I can consolidate the answers and repost to make it easier to find in the future.
Many thanks,
Chris

 

[GarrettS]

Hmmm… the ‘tar’ is likely a butyl derivative so it never really hardens—not sure how to make it hard-er, though.

It’s fairly common for sound deadening materials to have a foil back—perhaps you could quite literally place a piece of al. foil between the soft tar and the carpet in the places where it’s messy to prevent it from sticking to the carpet.

Or maybe cut out the parts that are bad and lay in some cut-to-shape dynamat (or similar) as a replacement.

No idea how much it matters on a 100, but every little bit helps on a 60