Shocks for a linked fj40

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Apr 15, 2017
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California
Newbie here, and someone suggested I re-post this in this section... I'm building a linked 40, and trying to decide between KING, FOX or ORI shocks/struts. The ORI site states that you don't need swaybars or bump stops. The truck will be driven on the freeway and the rocks running 37"s. Looking for real user feedback. Fox 2.5" DSC 16", ORI stx 16", king 16". Thanks
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74fj40

 
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Mar 12, 2005
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Littleton, Colorado
1 vote for oris, but I have no first hand experience. They seem to really simplify things especially negating the need for sway bars/antirocks. I have heard they can fatigue for on road driving, but my friend has taken his LJ with oris on a 1000 mile road trip with no complaints.
 

matzell

 
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Richmond, VA
I would vote Fox.

One another note your geometry is not very good on your links. You need to spread the lowers out as car as possible. I can not see the rest of the angles but I am sure you will have a lot of roll steer. my two cents.
 
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I would vote Fox.

One another note your geometry is not very good on your links. You need to spread the lowers out as car as possible. I can not see the rest of the angles but I am sure you will have a lot of roll steer. my two cents.
You are spot on with your comments they are simply tacked for now to get an initial idea of articulation, roll steer, antisquat, packaging, etc... I will be spreading the lower links out quite a bit along with bringing the mounting point up a little for better ground clearance and an antisquat value of around 75%. The link lengths will probably change slightly as well to try and optimize all the conditions as well.
 

OldRocDoc

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Your choice will also depend to a large degree on the weight of the vehicle. As matzell correctly points out, you need to get your geometry correct and then think about the suspension based on the weight and performance your are seeking. ORIs could work well, but you need to accept the current long delivery time. Air shock choice will depend on your weight.
 
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I spent some quality time wheeling a rig with ORI's recently and came away from the experience happy that I'd never put them on one of my trucks. I found that they got "stuck" partially compressed (or extended) and you'd have to do some lively driving (steering hard side to side) to get them to even out. The owner of said rig has had that issue from day one and I guess it's a common problem. I guess for a trail only rig it could be something "tolerable", but for the price I would think there shouldn't be issues.
I'd go Kings and be done with it.
Not sure how you're going to package 16" travel coilovers, but I'll say that they're probably overkill for the front or rear of a linked 40 that's with a factory frame or tub. You'll never use the full travel of said coilovers.
 

OldRocDoc

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If the problem you describe is indeed that common, I wonder why ORI's are so popular. I suspect they were not set up properly.

If you are seriously considering ORI's, talk to Mark Elliot at Purple Top Garage. He has installed the struts on a number of FJ40's with excellent results. You might also get some inspiration/ideas from some of the photos on his site.
 
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If the problem you describe is indeed that common, I wonder why ORI's are so popular. I suspect they were not set up properly.

If you are seriously considering ORI's, talk to Mark Elliot at Purple Top Garage. He has installed the struts on a number of FJ40's with excellent results. You might also get some inspiration/ideas from some of the photos on his site.
I'll plainly state that I'm no expert and am going off of one day's wheeling in a rig set up by someone else (and that person's comments). Yet, there are numerous threads (some being novellas) discussing problems with ORI's. They're a neat product, and have a ton of benefits, but I still think OP would be better served with CO's for his intended use.
 

dr_dobro

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Beautiful work and planning ! Ive been running Ori's (not that really matters now) and cant really complain except that they were on a 6,5K lbs truck suffering from some body roll, it needed a rear sway bar or to charge them over 450 psi on the bottom chamber creating a stiff ride and what other people mentioned above, rebound wasnt the greatest . I think they all have to be dial after testing vehicle multiple times to get them right on spot....

Few questions for you, son and I are currently working on a 40 and setting the ride as low as we can. we can't get the frame rails lower than 23" without modifying the front cross member, this is with 42's and a linked front (no drivetrain yet) :
- whats size tires are you running ?
- What is your frame rail measurement (lowest point)?
- Any plans to add hydro assist? didnt see it, wondering if you need to mount it low per cross memeber clearance?

I twould help me understand more!
Again, incredible work you are doing, wish i had those fab skills

D.
 
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Sick project!! And I'm sitting jelly here. One thing that sticks out for me and I know this isn't the point of your thread, but what's the deal with that panhard mount? Looks like an area I would personally beef up or rethink. All in all great work.
 

dr_dobro

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Thanks for the compliments. Running 37's (maxxis), Hydro assist goes in next week, the trucks overall height is not that tall, as you can see below. Will get lowest frame measurement.

Wow, I am speechless, what a nice 40 you built. Not too many people can do detailed work the way you did! Really love it !
And thank you, looking forward to hear those measurements, for sure this got me motivated a lot more.
D.
 

jkimmel

 
Joined
Mar 20, 2007
Messages
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Sick project!! And I'm sitting jelly here. One thing that sticks out for me and I know this isn't the point of your thread, but what's the deal with that panhard mount? Looks like an area I would personally beef up or rethink. All in all great work.
when I saw some of his first pics, I thought "you better brace that lower link mount or you're in for some fun"
and then I saw some later pics he posted and he braced them really nice.

I'm guessing its the same on the panhard mount
 
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Grande Prairie AB
Nice work, looking forward to following along. My 2 cents is you will most certainly want a rear sway bar as well with this set up if you plan on hi way driving it like you say.
 
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Apr 15, 2017
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California
some updates on the project, installed a trick step for the kiddo's to make it easier for them to climb into the back of the rig.
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rear sway bar with quick disconnect pins. you can see the pin on the link bar to mount it on when disconnected.
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