Shock Suggestions

[Ebag333]

The one exception is that the stock front control arms limit the front end more that than the shocks when running with the sway bar attached. If getting more travel out of the front end was as simple as new shocks and bumpstops, I would be all over it.

Not sure why you believe that. As mentioned before, I can pick up a tire running 12.5" travel shocks in the front (stock setup, sway bar installed, etc). Others have run 14" travel shocks and still can lift a tire, which goes to show that droop isn't limited in the front by anything other than the shock.

The front will droop as far as the back for any shock that's remotely close to bolt on. It won't stuff as far as the back, which is indeed largely because of the stock front control arms.

You don't really get much (if any) more flex from removing the sway bar either. The front end flexes easier, so you'll see more of that range, but the sway bar doesn't really limit you as far as total amount of flexing goes.

Heck, I even ran the poor man's three link (hitch pin mod) for a while. Found while I get slightly more flex, it's not really worth it. Front end flexes a bit easier, but not enough that to make it worth the hassle of dealing with the hitch pin.

So, yeah, getting more flex is just a matter of new shocks. I've found that running 12.5" in the front and 14" shocks in the rear match each other nicely. Because the rear flexes significantly easier than the front, they both hit their limit right about the same time.


Here's a rather terrible photo, because a picture is worth a thousand words. That tire is just barely touching, and only because I rolled backwards slightly when I put it into park. Limited flex?

And here's the back tire.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

I would like to see someone post up who can use the full 12" of travel in the front without a linked set up.

The back is easy the front....

 

[Ebag333]

I would like to see someone post up who can use the full 12" of travel in the front without a linked set up.

The back is easy the front....

You can use pretty much as much down travel as your shock gives you.

Up travel....that's a little more difficult.

Keep in mind that's not exactly the best position to force up travel, most of the weight is shifted off that tire and towards the rear.

Still...not bad.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

You can use pretty much as much down travel as your shock gives you.

Up travel....that's a little more difficult.

Keep in mind that's not exactly the best position to force up travel, most of the weight is shifted off that tire and towards the rear.

Still...not bad.

Not bad but nowhere close to using 12"

Not to be confusing but I'm talking about one side fully extended and the other fully compressed using 12" travel. I don't see it happen.

As for the picture who is to know, you could be on stock springs

 

[Ebag333]

Not bad but nowhere close to using 12"

Not to be confusing but I'm talking about one side fully extended and the other fully compressed using 12" travel. I don't see it happen.

If the front end was down (as opposed to up in the air), then it'd probably be about an inch further compressed. Close enough that it makes it difficult to fit your hand between the tire and the flare.

So, not quite using 12" of travel, but I probably can get about 11" of travel out of it.

Since the up travel's going to be about the same no matter which shocks you choose, then I'm getting 2" more travel than a 10" shock and 3" more travel than an OEM length shock (9"). Going the opposite direction a 14" travel shock should get 12-13 inches of travel out of it.

I could actually cheat and install a 14" travel shock or space my shock down an inch, and get the 12" travel. But I'm hoping eventually I can modify the front suspension to allow me a bit more flex.

As for the picture who is to know, you could be on stock springs

I don't think stock springs would have had as much clearance as that picture shows, they were pretty soft when I took them off.

OME medium springs, plus 30 mm spacer, plus 1" body lift. So about 3.5" suspension lift, 1" body lift for a total of 4.5" of lift. Without the body lift, the flare would have been pretty close to rubbing against the tire, so I really can't complain too much about the up travel.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

If you were getting 12" of usable travel your front axle angle would look something close to the rear axle pictured.

And the shocks would look something like the other pictures.

The compressed shock picture was bump stop to keep the tire from hitting the top of the inside of the fender well.

Shocks in the pictures are true 14" travel shocks set in the center of travel at ride height.

The picture 80 had 14" travel shocks on the front also and the limiting factor was the factory design not the shocks.

The point is I don't see the front end of an 80 able to use 12" of travel in the same way...not just yours

 

[Ebag333]

Rear flexes different than the front, so it's not exactly apples to apples.

I can only speak for my setup. But in the picture above, I had about 2.5" left of travel (10" used). As I mentioned, more weight on the front end compresses the front more, so more flex is possible there than what was shown in the picture above.

Since I was lifting a tire, I know there's room to be had for downward travel. So I think 12" of usable travel is very possible.

WalkingEagle has a nice write up on his build. According to what he's posting, he has 1" left of up travel when fully compressed, which means he can have up to 13" of travel available. He has a couple pics where his front end is dropped pretty far down, not sure if it's maxed but if not it's pretty close. That's probably as close as setup as and I've seen that would give 12" (or more) of travel in the front.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/162864-extended-shock-towers-14-rancho-9000xls.html

Now he's running the MAF drop brackets....so that'd have an effect on how well his front end moves around. Might be one reason why he is getting more usable flex than others.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Rear flexes different than the front, so it's not exactly apples to apples.

I can only speak for my setup. But in the picture above, I had about 2.5" left of travel (10" used). As I mentioned, more weight on the front end compresses the front more, so more flex is possible there than what was shown in the picture above.

Since I was lifting a tire, I know there's room to be had for downward travel. So I think 12" of usable travel is very possible.

WalkingEagle has a nice write up on his build. According to what he's posting, he has 1" left of up travel when fully compressed, which means he can have up to 13" of travel available. He has a couple pics where his front end is dropped pretty far down, not sure if it's maxed but if not it's pretty close. That's probably as close as setup as and I've seen that would give 12" (or more) of travel in the front.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/162864-extended-shock-towers-14-rancho-9000xls.html

Now he's running the MAF drop brackets....so that'd have an effect on how well his front end moves around. Might be one reason why he is getting more usable flex than others.

I read the link and did not find the claim.

Tool r us is runing custom narrow longer arms with only 3 bushing and not able to get full use of 12" shocks.

You have not provide any reason you have found a way around the factory binding issue that limits flex. Unless you hiding something, I doubt you or anyone else is getting more usable travel just because.

Even if you remove the springs I bet you cannot limit a 12" travel shock

 

[Schwaz80]

How much are OEM coil springs. Not the shocks.

 

[Ebag333]

Search is your friend.

Slee - Springs

 

[LandCrawler]

Allllllrrrrriighty then...

I have pretty much Eliminated the Rancho 9000's. Looking for something more on the stiffer side. Going to look at the OME line. For people running their OME setups, how long have they lasted for you??

 

[Schwaz80]

How much are Regular, Toyota, factory springs?I have searched quite a bit and can't seem to find anyone that goes back to the factory spring and a spacer. Are the springs just too expensive? I would think that replacing with all factory parts and a 20mm spacer would give you acceptable performance for occasional wheeling at a reasonable cost.

 

[REKCUT]

Here is a little research I did on doestch shocks. Very happy with them.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/484263-doestch-prerunner-shocks-part-numbers.html

 

[Ebag333]

I have pretty much Eliminated the Rancho 9000's. Looking for something more on the stiffer side. Going to look at the OME line. For people running their OME setups, how long have they lasted for you??

Mine didn't last very long for me before I replaced them, but that's not because they were worn out.

OME's seem to last a decently long amount of time, but I (and many others) wouldn't consider them stiff. The newer nitrochargers are supposed to be a stiffer valving than their original line, and I haven't run those (or rode in any 80's with them install) so can't compare directly. What I've read though is that they still tend to be on the softer side.

You should just pull the trigger on some shocks. They aren't really that expensive, and if you don't like them you can easily recover most of your cost by selling them to someone else. That or find some 80's in your area with various setups and ride in them, see which you like and which you don't.

How much are Regular, Toyota, factory springs?I have searched quite a bit and can't seem to find anyone that goes back to the factory spring and a spacer. Are the springs just too expensive? I would think that replacing with all factory parts and a 20mm spacer would give you acceptable performance for occasional wheeling at a reasonable cost.

A lot.

I don't recall the price, but everyone uses the OME stock height shocks because it's not worth paying for new springs from Toyota.

 

[marius]

Thinking of getting ironman shocks with ome 850, 863 that I got

 

[Funner]

Wasted money on coil spacers?? $70 for 1" of lift isnt money wasted if you ask me.

Anyhow, I wish I could get springs right now, but my budget is about $500-$600 and I need to do a complete front axle rebuild, all 4 brakes (hopefully wont need new rotors). I am hoping I can squeeze some new shocks into the budget... but a full set of lift springs is going to be out of the question.

That's a lot to squeeze out of 5-600 bucks. The axle kits without wheelbearings from Kurt are $115, if you need the wheelbearings add another $50 plus all gear oil, bearing grease and birf grease should total up around $225. Brake pads from T are going to be about $100, cheap ones from AZ maybe $60. that leaves you about $300, so conceivable to get good shocks and the spacer. If you didn't need the WB's then you would have about $350, just enough for the 4 OME coils. Chicks dig lifts not shocks.
I wasn't bashing coil spacers in general, just seems like a waste of money if you buy them now knowing you are replacing them. I also don't get why you would buy and install longer shocks when you don't have the lift. The spacers are only going to put you near the stock ride height, so that won't require a longer shock. The $70 coil spacer is the same cost as one of the coils. Just sayin'

Me, I am still rocking my saggy original coils, but with new OEM shocks. It improved handling quite a bit. I am undecided about coils. I go back and forth over new OME stock height vs 2.5" lift. I think, for me, the lift would be more show than need. I am not going to seek obstacles to drive over, my cruiser is for me to get out and explore. I don't want to go raking it over rocks and end up stranded. I had a Heep and already did that kind of wheeling, got bored with it after spending gobbs of money building it up.
Good luck with whatever you choose

 

[LandCrawler]

These trucks are beasts, and if you end up in the woods and are not prepared you will end up stranded. You say now "i dont want to crawl over obsticals" but i dont like turning around either... I want lift to clear larger tires. 33" tires are too small for these things, 35 or larger are required or else you'll just end up digging holes everywhere you go.

Anyhow. I wanted to buy shocks first because I believe thats where I will get my most bang for my buck as far as improved ride handling. And Im not planning on replacing the spacers, I may still want to run them after I buy my 2.5" lift springs.

 

[Ebag333]

These trucks are beasts, and if you end up in the woods and are not prepared you will end up stranded. You say now "i dont want to crawl over obsticals" but i dont like turning around either... I want lift to clear larger tires. 33" tires are too small for these things, 35 or larger are required or else you'll just end up digging holes everywhere you go.

Funny. When I first started lurking MUD everyone said that you can't run anything larger than 33's without regearing and risking breaking stuff.

Anyhow. I wanted to buy shocks first because I believe thats where I will get my most bang for my buck as far as improved ride handling.

This.

And Im not planning on replacing the spacers, I may still want to run them after I buy my 2.5" lift springs.

I do, and I'm happy with it.

 

[LandCrawler]

Do we know what the travel on stock shocks are?? compared to OME etc?? And when you say OME measures different than doestch shocks, do other companies use different measurements as well??

 

[Ebag333]

Do we know what the travel on stock shocks are?? compared to OME etc??

Look here:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/303737-pro-comp-es9000-shock-information-specs.html

And when you say OME measures different than doestch shocks, do other companies use different measurements as well??

What do you mean?