- Thread starter
- #41
In that thread, he mentions Doestch using different methods to measure their shocks.
Shock Suggestions (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter LandCrawler
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
In that thread, he mentions Doestch using different methods to measure their shocks.
I get what you mean about not being prepared and getting stranded, that's why I drive around obstacles instead of seeking them out, cracking my t-case and getting stranded.
Maybe if you paint a picture of what you want to do with your LC and what it will be carrying you can help the more learned give you advice about shocks.
Ah. I'm not sure what he means by they measure them differently. You're supposed to measure from shock mount to shock mount, so you have about 1" (from the shoulder) if they're an eye and .25" to .5" (again from the shoulder) depending on the type of bushing they use for stud/pin mounts.
Maybe they measured shoulder to shoulder, which would be off by a bit.
That's why you do a decent skid plate. It was the first piece of armor I put on.
- Thread starter
- #44
I get what you mean about not being prepared and getting stranded, that's why I drive around obstacles instead of seeking them out, cracking my t-case and getting stranded.
Maybe if you paint a picture of what you want to do with your LC and what it will be carrying you can help the more learned give you advice about shocks.
Sure hope I dont crack a transfercase. Not sure about the trails there, but here you cant always drive around an obstical. I want to clear 35"-37" tires eventually. My plan is to run the 33's i have now and add some gradual lift. Starting with the coil spacers and shocks (two things I think i'll get the most bang for my buck).
Then stage 2 will be a body lift, sliders & bumpers... all tube, no plate. hopefully I will have all this said and done before August and by christmas I can get the wife to let me buy some new 2.5 springs and some new tires (35+")
So, your end goal is 30mm spacer, 2.5" spring lift, and a body lift?
I am not judging, but I would think this lift/suspension is a bit Frankensteinish to do intentionally. I have seen people end up with stuff like that over a long period of time as their goals change and usually only because they have sunk money into components that didn't end up meeting their needs. The 4" OME coils are no more $ than the 2.5" coils, why not look at that instead of the three lift mechanisms you are looking at (spacer/coil/body lift)? You can eliminate the cost and labor of buying and installing all the other parts.
If you are planning all of those steps inside 10 months, I think you should rethink the plan. I would recommend you call Slee and a couple others vendors and talk to them about your plan. As I understand it, you can run 37" tires on a 4" lift. I have heard some say proper backspacing will prevent rub and others say it's not an issue. Anywho, I think more suspension travel is going to help you and with what you are planning you will end up with a pretty high lift with only 2.5 inches of added coil height, so less travel than the 4 inch lift. Both lifts will require castor correction to set them up properly.
I am going to eject here because I am being redundant and maybe not real helpful. Your original question was just about shocks, and I am injecting my opinion about the whole plan. I wish you good luck and I am sure you will have fun with your LC either way.
That's why you do a decent skid plate. It was the first piece of armor I put on. [/QUOTE]
Point noted, add some metal under my low bellied rig.
[/QUOTE]Point noted, add some metal under my low bellied rig.
You looking at me?
Seriously though, while a 3.5" spring lift is better than a 2.5" spring lift plus 30mm spacer, there is nothing "Frankensteinish" to a body lift. Body lift accomplishes things that a spring lift cannot, in addition to accomplishing things that it can.
Plus he can likely buy the spacer, run it until he purchases the springs, then sell the spacer and recoup a bunch of the cost on them. Considering they're uber cheap to start with, he won't be out much cost wise.
Another thing to consider is that OME medium springs can be found pretty often used, as that's by far the most common lift people run. Longer springs are less common used. So he can pick up a set of used springs to run until he saves for new longer springs, netting the same amount of lift at a fraction of the price.
That's exactly what I did, and while some of it was due to goals changing over the years it's not really so much "Frankensteinish" as a lift on a budget. Plus it works really well.
Depends on your setup. 3.5" backspacing will give you less rub than the OEM 4.5" back spacing, so it's a good idea to space the tire out some (different rims or wheel spacer).
Lift and how far you drop your bump stop plays a part as well, you can eliminate all rubbing if you drop your bump stops far enough, but that just wastes up travel.
I have some rubbing in the front, but it's due to the front axle needing to be shifted forward a bit. If I had OEM backspacing, I'd be rubbing rather badly.
Suspension travel really isn't the issue with either the 2.5" springs and spacer, or 4" springs. See my pics earlier in the thread where I'm maxing out 14" shocks in the rear and 12.5" shocks in the front.
I think you're selling the spring plus spacer lift short. Is it less than perfect? Sure, an all spring lift is ideal. Is it a terrible way to go? Not even close.
- Thread starter
- #48
Funner did you have a shock you wanted to suggest?
My point here is I can add a spacer to my springs now, i can replace my springs later... i can not bandaid my 20 year old shocks.
My point here is I can add a spacer to my springs now, i can replace my springs later... i can not bandaid my 20 year old shocks.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #49
Anyhow, the time has come to pull the trigger on this. So Im just going to compile most the information I have gathered from this thread and others:
omitted: original equipment, bilsteins & edelbrock.
Ebagg333 said:
REKUT said:
omitted: original equipment, bilsteins & edelbrock.
Saying that one is firm or soft isn't really an apples to apples comparison.
For example, the Pro Comp's don't have the bypass valve that the OME's do. So in some instances they are far more firm than OME. (Overall I find them vastly firmer in ride.)
They are also a progressive shock, where as OME is linear. So when the shock starts compressing, it starts off softer than OME, but as you compress it it firms up, becoming far firmer than OME.
It's like comparing the ride of a progressive vs linear spring and saying the progressive spring is softer. Yes, but only up to a point.....
Comparing valving on shocks is nearly impossible, and it's incredibly subjunctive. It'll also depend heavily on how your truck is built (weight) and the springs you have on there.
For example, the Pro Comp's don't have the bypass valve that the OME's do. So in some instances they are far more firm than OME. (Overall I find them vastly firmer in ride.)
They are also a progressive shock, where as OME is linear. So when the shock starts compressing, it starts off softer than OME, but as you compress it it firms up, becoming far firmer than OME.
It's like comparing the ride of a progressive vs linear spring and saying the progressive spring is softer. Yes, but only up to a point.....
Comparing valving on shocks is nearly impossible, and it's incredibly subjunctive. It'll also depend heavily on how your truck is built (weight) and the springs you have on there.
- Thread starter
- #51
Yeah i understand all that, but i cant put all that info in the 'notes' field.
Sure you can. 
You're really over thinking this. Anything that you get will be far superior to what you have now. Shocks aren't terribly expensive, especially since you can sell your old ones (if in good shape) to recoup some of the cost of new ones. Heck, you can buy 4 Pro Comps for way less than the price of a pair of springs.
OME's are expensive (I've heard them described more than once as "the cheapest shocks with the most expensive marketing"), but because they're popular you shouldn't have any trouble reselling them.
Just pull the trigger, if you don't like it try something else. It's only time and money, right?
You're really over thinking this. Anything that you get will be far superior to what you have now. Shocks aren't terribly expensive, especially since you can sell your old ones (if in good shape) to recoup some of the cost of new ones. Heck, you can buy 4 Pro Comps for way less than the price of a pair of springs.
OME's are expensive (I've heard them described more than once as "the cheapest shocks with the most expensive marketing"), but because they're popular you shouldn't have any trouble reselling them.
Just pull the trigger, if you don't like it try something else. It's only time and money, right?
- Thread starter
- #53
Yeah the main point to this thread was to get an idea on what my options were and the price differences, along with getting some input from other members on what they are using and how they like them.
OME's are the shocks that have failed me. Leaking, busted seals on several units and required replacing. Oh and they aren't cheap.
What somebody say about OME " "the cheapest shocks with the most expensive marketing". I believe that is the real truth. No BS.
I've had better luck with plain old " cheap " shocks in the past.
For me it's Bilsteins and Bilsteins only. They are on three trucks I own and none have ever failed. Pick your own and go with it.
Procomps will work just fine. I have used them and they are good.
OME- skip it.
What somebody say about OME " "the cheapest shocks with the most expensive marketing". I believe that is the real truth. No BS.
I've had better luck with plain old " cheap " shocks in the past.
For me it's Bilsteins and Bilsteins only. They are on three trucks I own and none have ever failed. Pick your own and go with it.
Procomps will work just fine. I have used them and they are good.
OME- skip it.
- Thread starter
- #55
Well s***... i just found a set of used 850J and 863J springs... and now its either springs or shocks....
If you are going with the j's be sure to read some threads about other's experiences with that lift. You will need more than just the springs and shocks. I am not saying it's not a good lift but just be sure you know what you are getting into since you are on a budget.
- Thread starter
- #57
Yeah, I did a search and changed my mind. The initial investment on that set of J's would require me to spend alot more in other mods to get it to work right. Im just going to stick with the plan I have, it will keep the geometry close to normal until I can invest 4 figures on a proper suspension lift.
If you keep it around 2" you don't have to change anything else. Mine sits 22"/21.5" hub to fender, clears 35's, and requires no other mods like brake lines, caster correction, etc. I plan to correct the caster one of these days but it's really not that bad and if I do it I will just get the $50 dollar rubber TJM bushings. Ironman springs are cheap, Pro Comp and Doestch shocks are cheap as well. I don't see why you couldn't build a full lift ala-cart for under $500.
