Shock Length Thread

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Any insight on radflo shocks? Just differential stocks them for the landcruiser.
Plenty of info around on the radflo...just gotta search for it...Very mixed messages..

The more time goes on the more I'm leaning towards having a cracked at the slee shocks... I'm really impressed with the company as a whole and I love the design of the slee shocks especially the piggyback rear... The biggest plus is that it was designed from a team that know this vehicle bolt by bolt... not too many people seem to be running these... decision time soon hmm mm.
 
Side by side of Icon VS 2.0 rear and Fox 2.0. Roughly 2" longer in overall legnth. Going in now but will report back with more info. Thanks to MetalTech for the 20% off cyber Monday sale!

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Side by side of Icon VS 2.0 rear and Fox 2.0. Roughly 2" longer in overall legnth. Going in now but will report back with more info. Thanks to MetalTech for the 20% off cyber Monday sale!

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I'd love to hear what you think. I just ordered some Icons and UCAs! I hope to have them next week.
 
I'd love to hear what you think. I just ordered some Icons and UCAs! I hope to have them next week.

In the 10 miles I've driven it, they're awesome.

I paired them with some OME 2864's to help better carry the hefty load I have in the back (BIOR bumper swing out with Hi-lift, 250lbs of drawers, fridge, etc)

I'm going to post up in my build thread with more info on this progression, but so far so good.
 
Do I need to do anything with the bump stops if going with the 3" shocks?

Currently running OME comfort but my LC is built up and they are to wishy washy
 
Do I need to do anything with the bump stops if going with the 3" shocks?

Currently running OME comfort but my LC is built up and they are to wishy washy

Unfortunately, you really didn't provide enough information in your question. What do you mean by 3" shocks? Front or rear shocks? Do you have a particular part number in mind? If front, what upper control arms do you plan to use?
 
A continued question that I don't think was answered earlier in the thread....does anyone know the compressed and extended lengths of the stock OEM shocks?
 
Done. Several times and run for 100k miles plus.... when cycling the front suspension without the torsion bar in place it is disapointing to find that only about 3.5" of shock travel is used from full extension to the lower arm on the factory bumpstop. The front suspension uses only a small portion of the and is only made smaller by raising the ride height since most aftermarket shocks do not increase in length over stock. Small increase in shock length equate to larger gains in travel at the wheel, and drastically reduces the amount of preload that forces the shock to full extension. This along with the added droop keeping the wheel on the ground more often gives a much better ride. Similar results can be achieved by simply keeping lift height to a minimum.


Why is no one simply offering either an extended top pin or lifted lower adapter plate to be bolted or welded on the A arm to get the full use of the 5.5 to 5.9 inch available travel of the factory, kyb, koni or any replacement shocks?
This shocks are rougthly 440 mm long +or-10mm for most of them. A 1 inch, 25mm, extension would bring them to what i believe is the max the top arm can take and offer a prety decent drop for good money. 3.5 inch plus the extra inch of extension leaves over an inch of free travel to protect the shocks on big full bump stop compression.
Definitely something i would deeply look into before going for expensive shocks upgrade. You can find toyota shocks or replacement anywhere on expeditions.
 
Why is no one simply offering either an extended top pin or lifted lower adapter plate to be bolted or welded on the A arm to get the full use of the 5.5 to 5.9 inch available travel of the factory, kyb, koni or any replacement shocks?
This shocks are rougthly 440 mm long +or-10mm for most of them. A 1 inch, 25mm, extension would bring them to what i believe is the max the top arm can take and offer a prety decent drop for good money. 3.5 inch plus the extra inch of extension leaves over an inch of free travel to protect the shocks on big full bump stop compression.
Definitely something i would deeply look into before going for expensive shocks upgrade. You can find toyota shocks or replacement anywhere on expeditions.

This does not really buy you much, the shock is the down travel limiting link in the front but that limit is what keeps the CV's from over extension and failure so other than 0.5 - 1.0" of down travel (risking your CV's) you don't gain much advantage. On a heavy vehicle that is wheeled at any speed the stock dampers are not up to the job anyway. It's a two factor problem; first you need shocks tuned to the weight, second you want to maximize use of available travel.
 
Plenty of info around on the radflo...just gotta search for it...Very mixed messages..

The more time goes on the more I'm leaning towards having a cracked at the slee shocks... I'm really impressed with the company as a whole and I love the design of the slee shocks especially the piggyback rear... The biggest plus is that it was designed from a team that know this vehicle bolt by bolt... not too many people seem to be running these... decision time soon hmm mm.

That's what I did. I read all over this place and talked to lots of drivers and at the end of the day I decided to try a set from Slee for these reasons:

-I believe they are in a preferred position to test and tune for the 100, they see and support so many of them, definitely not a me too offering from them (thinking Fox and Bil make most of ther $$ on other trucks, not so at Slee).
-I wanted a true rebuild-able race type shock build with remotes for max travel and extended hard runs.
-Slee is local to me should I have questions or want to throw mine on the rebuild truck more easily.
-I wanted shocks tuned correctly without the complexity of clicky things to potentially leak/fail later on.

So far so great! I get something right from time to time and this was one of those times. Excellent balanced ride, provide fantastic traction on washboards and small stuff. Eat the big hits nicely as well but I should really stop testing that... All in all a great move and made it feel like a new ride. Would buy again.
 
I've driven AimTaco's hundred, it drives very nice with the Slee shocks. When I am ready to dump the OME Sport Nitro chargers I will jump on the Slee's for the same reason he stated


That's what I did. I read all over this place and talked to lots of drivers and at the end of the day I decided to try a set from Slee for these reasons:

-I believe they are in a preferred position to test and tune for the 100, they see and support so many of them, definitely not a me too offering from them (thinking Fox and Bil make most of ther $$ on other trucks, not so at Slee).
-I wanted a true rebuild-able race type shock build with remotes for max travel and extended hard runs.
-Slee is local to me should I have questions or want to throw mine on the rebuild truck more easily.
-I wanted shocks tuned correctly without the complexity of clicky things to potentially leak/fail later on.

So far so great! I get something right from time to time and this was one of those times. Excellent balanced ride, provide fantastic traction on washboards and small stuff. Eat the big hits nicely as well but I should really stop testing that... All in all a great move and made it feel like a new ride. Would buy again.
 
This does not really buy you much, the shock is the down travel limiting link in the front but that limit is what keeps the CV's from over extension and failure so other than 0.5 - 1.0" of down travel (risking your CV's) you don't gain much advantage. On a heavy vehicle that is wheeled at any speed the stock dampers are not up to the job anyway. It's a two factor problem; first you need shocks tuned to the weight, second you want to maximize use of available travel.


When you have a 30mm lift (low lift used on expedition), a diff drop and want to retain the max possible, usable drop, this 30 mm or a little more (on top of my head, you would want something around 460 to 465mm equivalent extended shocks just as you are all going for) added down travel would make a massive difference on tracks and on grip when things get twisty or in dunes. This is apparently available at the cost of a tiny mod on the lower arm. I am just surprised it has not been much looked into.
This could also make the AHC compatible with higher base lift and longer front susp travel.

I agree that the shocks valving should be in accordance to the weight and springs but also to the intended use of it, and possibility to get spares where you are going.
On an expedition truck, not a racing one, (my lc80 went from Koni raid, the big ones and 70mm lift, back to KYB excel G and 30, 40mm lift with a smile) i would rather have some standard (toyota, KYB or OME sport) shocks, doubled if really heavy, than high tech shocks that don't last the distance and leave you stranded. I have seen so many of this top notch shocks letting the roadrunners of our groups down on jacks waiting for oem shocks were the rest of the group on more average shocks, at a reasonable pace made the all trip without issues. Not to talk about the very poor reliability of the tiny bushings or rod end bearings on many shocks we have try. These rods end bearing rarely go passed 10 000km, usually fail half way through the trip. Some Eu manufacturer use twice as big if not bigger rod end than the US and from higher grades, gets better results...but they very rarely if not never outlast the good old bounder rubbers on the long run.

It is all about what you use your truck for, how much you fork in and for how long.

I will stop there. It was just to point out an alternative that so far i haven't red about.:) I will explore this when i get my 100 i am looking for.:cheers::cheers::cheers:
 
Found a set of these lightly used locally. Thinking of trying them out over my current OME's. Tundra curb weight is very similar to ours so should be good there. Lengths are good too. Good thing is these are revalveable and rebuildable too if they are off, question is should i expect some improvement?
Guess ill try and report back.
 
This seems to be an old thread, but I'm trying to get some shock length info myself. I contacted Ironman and got the following:

45796FEs provide 24.25" extended 15" compressed
45795FEs provide 17.59" extended 12.4" compressed
 
Tough Dog info:

53mm Ralph Big Bore (FRONT) TDR1103 11.81" 18.11"

45mm Big Bore Adjustable (REAR) BMX1114/2 16.69" 24.72"

41mm Foam Cell (FRONT) FC41103 11.22" 17.71"

40mm Adjustable (REAR) BM401114 15.27" 24.8"

41mm Foam Cell (REAR) FC41114 x 14.76" 24.6"
 

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