shakey sideview mirror FIX (2 Viewers)

[Sully]

I was lucky enough to find that my bracket, while cracked in 2 places, was still intact. I used a pin vise to drill holes through the cracked parts, inserted guitar wire cut to the proper length for reinforcement, and secured the whole assembly with gorilla glue. I didn't have to dismantle the back from the front of the mirror. So far, it works great.

 

[AZ 80]

I may be late replying to this but I sure have had the problem long before this post, thanks for the great solution post, I'm on it tomorrow.

 

[schum4]

Thanks JKL for the write up and pix.

Tech-dog, is that the same plastic mastic used to seal duct work? Just happen to have some left over.

 

[stayalert]

x2 on the thanks for the write up...I just did this on Sat. works like a charm!

 

[tech_dog]

Thanks JKL for the write up and pix.

Tech-dog, is that the same plastic mastic used to seal duct work? Just happen to have some left over.

It was hanging on a peg in the glue section of home depot. They had about 5 types, for metal, plumbing, wood, and plastic. I used the plastic type.

It looked kind of like this, but in different packaging.

http://www.diybathrepair.com/html/kit_mastic.html

 

[JerseyCruiser]

Great writeup I'm fixing mine right now just applied the JB Weld and waiting for it to setup. I'm just wondering what makes all of these mirrors break anyway? Is it from the housing getting whacked by something? Mine is broken in the same place and I discovered that the PO tried rigging it with a screw with no luck. The bottom set screw hole was cracked as well. I was lucky to have all of the broken pieces so I super glued them and then put a heavy bead of JB around the outside of the threaded part. I'll let you know how that works out.

G


Perfect fix!!! Like new!!

 

[Loppy]

I'm in this club too. Pass side. With no football on, I know what I'm doing tomorrow. Thanks!

 

[TiredIronGRB]

That's all cool but I just set mine where I wanted it and ran a bead of clear silicone across the bottom. I did this when I first got it and it's held up great.

 

[rdublin]

Fire-
I wonder if you could line the screw hole with something to give it some strenght. Then maybe take your coat hanger idea: wrap a coat hanger in a circle, place it around the outside edge and JD weld it.

I just did this tonight. The screw hole was split on both sides so first I super glued and clamped it. Then I took at .040" drill bit and put a small hole through the web support on either side of the cylinder and used a bit of .023" solid MIG wire as safety wire. A quick wrap around the screw boss and a few turns with the safety wire pliers and presto - a metal reinforced screw hole. It handled the screw insertion fine and the mirror no longer shakes. We'll see how long it lasts.

 

[Brentbba]

Timely - my DS mirror has developed the shakes this past week. Will have to use this info to check it out. Driving me nuts!

 

[JerseyCruiser]

I just did this tonight. The screw hole was split on both sides so first I super glued and clamped it. Then I took at .040" drill bit and put a small hole through the web support on either side of the cylinder and used a bit of .023" solid MIG wire as safety wire. A quick wrap around the screw boss and a few turns with the safety wire pliers and presto - a metal reinforced screw hole. It handled the screw insertion fine and the mirror no longer shakes. We'll see how long it lasts.

You should surround the screw hole you repaired with some JB Weld like I did with mine.

George

 

[therob]

I'm planning on knocking out my shaky mirror this weekend thanks again for the pics.

 

[wearsabrowncoat]

I just took my mirror off to do the repair and found a different failure point. Instead of the keyhole portion being broken I had one of the tiny plastic mounting hooks broken. This is the part inside the mirror housing that those keyholes are resting in/on. I couldn't find the missing portion of the 'L' type hook so I will have to come up with some sort of fix. It will probably involve some JB weld just like the other fix.

 

[mynameisbc]

Workin' it now

This post was fantastic. My partial keyhole had broken -- exactly as the original pics/post described.

JB Weld has set and I am shaping the new housing now. I do recommend separating the main component housing in the off chance that you are sloppy with the JB Weld -- you don't want the boxed housing to be welded together for good.

---------------------------------------------------
**Update** - worked like a charm

BC
FJ80, 96' LX450

 

[aktundra]

I wanted to add this pic to this thread, since the thread was such a big help to me in this repair.

Not sure if this really a better mouse trap, or if I am just over thinking things as usual.

1. Go through your office supplies @ work and find some of those file holders. The kind that you bend up to add a sheet of paper then bend back down to hold it. (free)

2. Stop by a computer repair shop and ask if they have a bin of tiny screws. (free)

3. Place a little ring of aluminum foil inside the hole of the "good" tab. Use tooth picks or a small screw driver to expand the ring out until it matches the pear/hourglass shape of the slot. Put a dab of caulk inside the foil so it will not collapse later under pressure from the JB Weld on the outside.

4. Bend a metal frame for a new tab from a piece of the file holder, temorarily secure to the broken tab with super glue. (The metal can be cut with stout sissors and bent with needle nose pliers)

5. use a Q tip to smear a light oil (to aid in removal) on the outside of the "hole form" (made in step 3 above) and put it in place. Use the remaining parts of the old hole to properly position the new hole.

6. your "mold" is now complete. Pour in JB weld.

7. Drill holes in the metal frame/plastic tab insert small screws.

8. clean up with dremmel.

In retro spect I should have compeltely covered the top surface with JB Weld. As long as the back of the new tab is flush with the rest of the body, the only point were the tab thickness matters, and fit is important, is where the hook from the housing fits in the top of the slot. The extra layer of JB Weld would have added strength without interferring with fit.

 

[Rudical]

The first post of this thread (pics #1 and 2) show two clips on both sides of the center. Post #19 shows the piece where the mirror is attcached to. Do I need to make sure those are clipped in? Or do I only need the "claws" that mount to the motor assembly?

 

[Cruiser Jimmy]

The mirror needs to be attached to the assembly that moves the mirror first. Then you hanger the mirror in the housing assembly.

 

[Devil's Slide Doug]

I just squirted some silicone in there and glued it down. Good for almost two years so far.

 

[Rudical]

The mirror needs to be attached to the assembly that moves the mirror first. Then you hanger the mirror in the housing assembly.

That is what I did the first time. My problem was that it still came loose and almost fell off. I thought that there would be a more secure connection between the plastic that holds the mirror to the motor assembly. I tried to see if it needed to be pushed in more, but broke the glass. After looking at it again, I think the "key" that goes through the "key hole" in the middle (where you pulled the pin) needs to be placed first through the whole in the plastic piece that holds the glass and then the glass put in? Well I put it there first and it was not long enough to slide the pin in. When I took it apart the "key" was up against the motor assembly behind the plastic holding the glass. If that superstision about breaking a mirror is true I am screwed for the next 27 1/2 years!

 

[MARKTLC80]

Great tip, right on time mine driver side mirrow is about to fall off. Thanks.