Seven Pin (1 Viewer)

[photogod]

I know the info is here somewhere but I cant find it in search. Did the seven pin mod and when in low with the center diff lock button switched off, the front and rear lockers just blink and don't seem to engage.

When I lock the center lock the front and rears lock up right away.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

 

[bpassmore]

Diff lock must be locked to engage f/r lockers. Always.

 

[76BigheadFJ40]

Diff lock must be locked to engage f/r lockers. Always.

This is true.

Here's a little info on it from Slee's site, I know that it can be confusing, and every once in a while I need to brush up on it.
Slee - Pin 7 Mod for CDL (Toyota 80 Series Land Cruiser)

and a search
IH8MUD Forums - Search Results

From what I can remember. You need to push the button in/on to get any of the lockers to work. So:

CDL ON- can use rear/rear and front lockers in high gear
CDL ON- can use rear/rear and front lockers in low gear
CDL OFF- do not need to turn on lockers in low gear.

It gives you manual control of the lockers.

Sometimes my lockers take a bit to engage. Try a slow forward roll, then stop, roll forward, stop, and see if that lets them engage.

 

[80t0ylc]

Diff lock must be locked to engage f/r lockers. Always.

Only true if you have OEM lockers! If you run ARB air lockers or auto-lockers you don't need CDL engaged to get benefit of lockers.

 

[80t0ylc]

This is true.



CDL ON- can use rear/rear and front lockers in high gear
CDL ON- can use rear/rear and front lockers in low gear
CDL OFF- do not need to turn on lockers in low gear.

It gives you manual control of the lockers.

I disagree. The only 2 advantages I can see with having the CDL w/7 pin mod is that you can manually lock and unlock center diff. in high or low. That still doesn't give you full manual control of the front and rear locking diffs. The damn computer still limits you if you have OEM lockers! At least with the '93 & up T/C(viscous) and the pin 7 mod you can run T/C in low on pavement all day (CDL unlocked of course) if you want or run in high unlocked, which is an improvement over the old part time setups or the non-viscous T/Cs.

 

[Ebag333]

It should be fairly simple to bypass that if you really wanted to.....but honestly, how often do you need the front and/or rear locked without having the center locked?

 

[80t0ylc]

It should be fairly simple to bypass that if you really wanted to.....but honestly, how often do you need the front and/or rear locked without having the center locked?

I just hate having a freaking computer telling me what I can and can't do!

 

[Lka1988]

I know the info is here somewhere but I cant find it in search. Did the seven pin mod and when in low with the center diff lock button switched off, the front and rear lockers just blink and don't seem to engage.

When I lock the center lock the front and rears lock up right away.

Any ideas?

Thanks.

That's exactly what it's supposed to do.

 

[photogod]

Thanks all. I had my thought pattern backwards thinking the CD could be used, or not, while still in FF/RR locked. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

[concretejungle]

Only true if you have OEM lockers! If you run ARB air lockers or auto-lockers you don't need CDL engaged to get benefit of lockers.

Negative ghost rider! haha, sorry had to say that.

I just started a thread a few days ago about my Aussie locker install (auto locker). Without the center diff locked, i still had a wheel that would not spin. Lock the CDL and you are fully locked.

 

[80t0ylc]

Negative ghost rider! haha, sorry had to say that.

I just started a thread a few days ago about my Aussie locker install (auto locker). Without the center diff locked, i still had a wheel that would not spin. Lock the CDL and you are fully locked.

That's right, I saw that mis-leading thread (Selectable Aussie Locker?). Ha-ha, sorry - couldn't resist. If you're crossed-up enough to have a wheel off the ground or a wheel on the other axle with zero resistance, than yes, you are correct. But if the Aussie (or any "auto-locker" for that matter) has torque applied to it, it will remain locked. I guess I'm just "old school", meaning when I start locking, I would rather start from axles and lock CDL last. Easier on the drive train. I like the convienence of the factory lockers, but I just don't like Mr. T or any damn computer telling me when I can lock or not. I'd prefer an auto locker like your Aussie, to factory lockers, for that reason. Finances may take me that direction, anyway. I'm impressed at what I've read here on MUD with the Aussie and Hayes' install thread made it really look doable for the shade-tree mechanic.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

FWIW guys, and I'm not recommending this modification but...if you go to your elocker ECU and ground pin 15 (Pink wire with a Black stripe - at least on a 97 LC) then the elocker ECU will always think that the center diff is locked.

You could then lock the diffs without locking the center diff. I don't know why you would want to do this but you could.

I only know this because I installed front and rear TRD elockers in my 85 4Runner and I used an 80 elocker ECU and switch. I even wired up the diff lock indicators using LED's but of course didn't need to wire up a center diff lock indicator. I had to ground pin 15 and I had to leave pin 4 unconnected. Pin 4 is the MPH limit switch.

With pin 15 hooked to ground, my elockers work exactly like the ones in my 80 but with two exceptions: I can lock at any speed (not a good thing) and I don't have a center diff lock to deal with.

Later: I looked back at earlier 80 wiring diagrams and for the (93 and 94, not sure about 95) the wire color on pin 15 is yellow with a black stripe. 96 and 97 (again not sure about 95) is, as I said above, pink with a black stripe.

 

[bpassmore]

I think he means "Cdan's Pin 7 Mod"

And now,
"War's Screw the Locker Mod". I like it!

 

[WarDamnEagle]

If anyone really wants to do this then let me offer the following advice (having had this ECU and connector in my hand for quite some time). You need to take a wire pick and remove the wire from the connector that plugs into the elocker ECU at pin 15. You then need to just tape that wire up out of the way (also so you can put it back in if you don't like the results!).

You then need to ground the connector at pin 15. I'm assuming you could push a wire into the connector and hook the other end to ground and it might work. Ideally, you would take a toyota wire connector end and put it on a length of wire and ground the other end of the wire.

This way, the process would be completely reversible.

 

[pugwash]

I guess I'm just "old school", meaning when I start locking, I would rather start from axles and lock CDL last. Easier on the drive train.

this is incorrect.

The biggest stress felt by any transfer box is when there is a mismatch between speeds of the output shafts. You are far more likely to blow spiders and gears with different axle speeds than when you have the centre diff locked. Furthermore if you are in a situation where you need to lock an axle it is likely that the majority if not all of the power will be split to the unlocked axle and not the rear, if it isn't then you are going to get some very odd power movements across the drivetrain.

I can think of only a single occasion when having the rear locked without the centre could be beneficial. When you are decending steep hills with ruts/rocks and you are likely to lift a wheel then what usually occurs is that the lifterd wheel starts to rotate backwards as the power is plit across the diff- if you are on a steep enough slope then this backward rotation can upset the balance of the vehicle with potential consequences of instability. Even in this scenario you would have the centre diff locked to maximise engine braking.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Furthermore if you are in a situation where you need to lock an axle it is likely that the majority if not all of the power will be split to the unlocked axle and not the rear, if it isn't then you are going to get some very odd power movements across the drivetrain.

I agree completely. ...and just for the record, I only posted the info about pin 15 because I knew that it was possible, not because I wanted to do it to my 80.

 

[80t0ylc]

this is incorrect.

The biggest stress felt by any transfer box is when there is a mismatch between speeds of the output shafts. You are far more likely to blow spiders and gears with different axle speeds than when you have the centre diff locked. Furthermore if you are in a situation where you need to lock an axle it is likely that the majority if not all of the power will be split to the unlocked axle and not the rear, if it isn't then you are going to get some very odd power movements across the drivetrain.

I guess I should have qualified my statement "when I start locking, I would rather start from axles and lock CDL last. Easier on the drive train." by saying: with all drivetrain motion stopped. But, back to your statement about transfer boxes and different output shaft speeds - that's exactly where the 80's viscous and unlocked mode shines and why those of us who lock the CDL, while the drive train is in motion, can have disasterous results with locking axle lockers while spinning a wheel. The same strain would be felt by the T/C when locking with different axle speeds with more expensive results possible. Prolly why Mr. T engineered it the way it is. Good call pugwash and thanks for the correction!