Seat extensions for 100 Series (1 Viewer)

[Jcrider48]

I was able to make my prototype tonight out of 1/8 flat bar I had lying around. I had to weld the final bend due to the angle it required as it broke when I scored and bent it. I believe 1/4 inch will require scoring and bending, but would not break so I would be able to weld the scoring shut and have a clean look. I'm a little hesitant to post, but no one will buy them if I don't show a photo of them so hopefully no one swipes idea.

This design dodges the under seat accessories, and requires no modification to the seat. You will however, need to remove the far left plastic form underneath the carpet, and trim it, or at the very least remove the staples in the top so it can be pushed out of the way. In the pictures, I have only removed the staples and pushed it down. You will also need to take a razor blade and notch the carpet on the right side of the seat about 1 inch. My seat wiring is already unhooked from the body, so you may need to do the same as well. By this I mean pull some wire retainers out of their mounting holes.

I've always thought the cruisers seat didn't go quite far enough back, but with this, It goes too far back for me. I was able to get 4 inches of extra room with 0 additional height. The rear however, will have a 1/4 extra height. I can't avoid it unless you want to drill your floor. If you do, then you can bolt it through and not gain any height.

I would make these by hand, and they would ship unpainted with 4 new nuts and bolts, will be grade 10 from fastenal most likely. I will of course pay for a vendor membership, as I respect the rules of the forum. Feedback?

Keep in. mind in the photos, I have not secured the extension brackets to the seat itself, just the stock mounting point. But I sat in it, and it held, and felt solid, even at 1/8 steel.


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Thank you very much. I'm all in how money do you want?

Also, I'm not worried about cutting or drilling the floor to save the 1/4". I know I'm asking alot with this, but is there a way to get the seat lower now that you figured out how to push it back?

Thanks again now I can start driving the LC again.

On a side note, are all years seat brackets the same?

 

[TheForger]

Be careful when messing with the factory mounting points of seats. They’re engineered in a way to absorb the energy of an impact but not shear as to keep the occupant secured in the seat and safe. In the second pic it looks like the bolts going through both the original seat bracket and your new one do not continue through the carpet into the tub. If that’s the case, I could see a head-on collision at just 20 or 30mph causing the entire seat to lift up and the forward-most bolts acting as a fulcrum. This moment of force translates to those 3” you gained backward now being 3” more going forward towards an airbag deploying at 200mph.

With that being said a seatbelt does two things: 1) keeps you in the cabin of the vehicle during an accident where you are safest and protected by crumple zones & airbags; and also 2) keeps you a safe distance (minimum 10-12”) away from the airbags so they doesn’t kill you when they deploy. The seatbelt can no longer be an effective safety device if the seat you’re sitting in has broken free from its original mounting points in a collision.

With that being said I’d love some extra leg room since I’m 6’2”, but I don’t want to sacrifice my own safety to get it. Just my 0.02 to consider if you wish.

 

[brownfox]

Thats a good question, I’m not sure if the seats are the same. Mines an 05, I’m guessing they are probably the same but obviously I need to confirm that now.

The front could go lower, I would just extend the piece after the 90 degree bend. But I think I’d only be able to gain a 1/2 inch to an inch. The blower motor gets in the way.

As far as the back mounts, no way I see to lower unless you cut the seat brackets.

I’ll need to price out the steel and the hardware. But I think I’d need to be in the neighborhood of Just under $100 for it to be worth my time including hardware and shipping.

 

[krice118]

@TheForger comment convinced me to leave it alone and keep it how Toyota designed it to be.

 

[Jcrider48]

Thats a good question, I’m not sure if the seats are the same. Mines an 05, I’m guessing they are probably the same but obviously I need to confirm that now.

The front could go lower, I would just extend the piece after the 90 degree bend. But I think I’d only be able to gain a 1/2 inch to an inch. The blower motor gets in the way.

As far as the back mounts, no way I see to lower unless you cut the seat brackets.

I’ll need to price out the steel and the hardware. But I think I’d need to be in the neighborhood of Just under $100 for it to be worth my time including hardware and shipping.

Sounds good, I'm still in. Thank you for doing this.

 

[brownfox]

In the second pic it looks like the bolts going through both the original seat bracket and your new one do not continue through the carpet into the tub. If that’s the case, I could see a head-on collision at just 20 or 30mph causing the entire seat to lift up and the forward-most bolts acting as a fulcrum. This moment of force translates to those 3” you gained backward now being 3” more going forward towards an airbag deploying at 200mph.

Yes, absolutely, from an engineering standpoint, I cannot claim these are equilivent to the factory mounting points, and would have indicated that before I let anything leave my hands.

After @spressomon posted the picture of what he had done previously, I figured I could do something similar. I can see how a large amount of force could deform the bracket, perhaps due to the bend placed in it. I could gusset the inside of the 90 degree to mitigate this. My guess is the most likely failure would be a bending upward on the longest straight run, pushing the seat forward, but the vertical run downward and into the lump where the factory mounts are. Keep in mind the final product will be 1/4 steel.

However, if safety is your concern, absolutely, the safest thing is to leave the mounts alone. That being said, these are intended for.... "off road use only". Specifically sitting in your car at a car show, not moving it on the roadway.

 

[Jcrider48]

Yes, absolutely, from an engineering standpoint, I cannot claim these are equilivent to the factory mounting points, and would have indicated that before I let anything leave my hands.

After @spressomon posted the picture of what he had done previously, I figured I could do something similar. I can see how a large amount of force could deform the bracket, perhaps due to the bend placed in it. I could gusset the inside of the 90 degree to mitigate this. My guess is the most likely failure would be a bending upward on the longest straight run, pushing the seat forward, but the vertical run downward and into the lump where the factory mounts are. Keep in mind the final product will be 1/4 steel.

However, if safety is your concern, absolutely, the safest thing is to leave the mounts alone. That being said, these are intended for.... "off road use only". Specifically sitting in your car at a car show, not moving it on the roadway.

I'm not at all worried about changing Toyota's original design.

I've already messed with Toyota's design by adding bumpers and compromising the crumble zone. I added bigger tires therefore reduced my stopped distance. I added a suspension lift and shock, skids plates, roof rack, RTT, storage drawers, and more.

There so much changed that shearing a 10.9(eqiv. Grade 8) bolt is the least of my concerns.

Wish me luck, because soon I will be actually comfortable driving the LC

 

[brownfox]

Good point. I guess adding steel bumpers (aside from arb that is airbag tested) is a pretty significant design change by itself.

Does anyone that was really wanting this mod to happen have a feedback for the design? This is the only way I could find to make the mounts so it's bolt on. If there are other ideas throw them out and lets see what we can make.

 

[ponowizard]

Good point. I guess adding steel bumpers (aside from arb that is airbag tested) is a pretty significant design change by itself.

Does anyone that was really wanting this mod to happen have a feedback for the design? This is the only way I could find to make the mounts so it's bolt on. If there are other ideas throw them out and lets see what we can make.

Hmm, lemme think on it. I like where you're going with this, and I suspect it would actually be plenty safe, but better to be cautious.

 

[ponowizard]

(I'd be down to buy the current design, though I suspect we might be able to get a couple big improvements first )

 

[Jcrider48]

Any update on this project?

 

[brownfox]

Sort of. I moved my press back to my garage to make the actual product out of 1/4 steel. I need to pull my front seat and see if it’s possible to bend the bracket so it contacts the floor for stability. I don’t think it will be possible with the heater equipment under there.

 

[Jcrider48]

Sort of. I moved my press back to my garage to make the actual product out of 1/4 steel. I need to pull my front seat and see if it’s possible to bend the bracket so it contacts the floor for stability. I don’t think it will be possible with the heater equipment under there.

Thanks

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

Been working on this as I can. Complete bolt in design, uses the factory mounting holes and is one solid rail front to rear. Using a solid rail that contours the floor pan and seat brackets is the only way I see for this to be strong enough to keep the integrity close to the original design and where I'd be comfortable offering it.

All bends, no welding and I'll use a HSLA material.

Still a bit to go, but close.

Jason

 

[Jcrider48]

Been working on this as I can. Complete bolt in design, uses the factory mounting holes and is one solid rail front to rear. Using a solid rail that contours the floor pan and seat brackets is the only way I see for this to be strong enough to keep the integrity close to the original design and where I'd be comfortable offering it.

All bends, no welding and I'll use a HSLA material.

Still a bit to go, but close.

Jason

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How much extra adjustment back?

Any increase the height?

Price? Not that it matter because I have to have it. Just curious.

 

[TRAIL TAILOR]

How much extra adjustment back?

Any increase the height?

Price? Not that it matter because I have to have it. Just curious.

I've got 3.75" set in the drawing for adjustment.

Only height increase is the thickness of material of bracket. Undecided on material at the moment.

Price, less than 200.00 powdered and shipped. Price may change depending on final design.

J

 

[Red Beard]

I don't own a 100 series – but I've been in the market lately to buy one soon. And I'm 6'7". I'm totally in on a seat extension.

A bracket like this would make my buying decision a lot easier since I can extend the seat all farther back. I always thought it was funny that in my Mini Cooper I could extend my legs all the way out but in my 80 I couldn't. Granted, there isn't much head space in the mini.

 

[brownfox]

I’m assuming the circled part is not to scale? That will be a bend that extends to the floor for stability?

That’s close to what I was going to do. I didn’t think to add the 90 prior to the bend that accommodates the front stock mount. That’s obviously much easier. Nice!

At least I was close to the right idea?

 

[EZDog]

Been working on this as I can. Complete bolt in design, uses the factory mounting holes and is one solid rail front to rear. Using a solid rail that contours the floor pan and seat brackets is the only way I see for this to be strong enough to keep the integrity close to the original design and where I'd be comfortable offering it.

All bends, no welding and I'll use a HSLA material.

Still a bit to go, but close.

Jason

View attachment 2101932

This is how the guys at Extend My Seat have done them as well and seems to be the smartest idea to me for the reasons you list too.
I have had 2 sets from those guys for a Prius and a CRV and they work OK but they do not really use a heavy enough steel for theirs and there was a lot more flex than I considered as ideal.

I am all over a set of these for my LC!

 

[ponowizard]

"The average hospital charge for a total knee replacement (TKR) in the United States is $49,500."

Price, less than 200.00 powdered and shipped. Price may change depending on final design.

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FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, PLEASE TAKE MY !!!

-Seth