- Thread starter
- #101
It's definitely not perfect but I did it myself.
Builds Sean's FJ40 Restomod?
- Thread starter Salem747
- Start date
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Sheck44
SILVER Star
Perfect Salem ... Just wanted to make sure
Your going to love it !! That combo works so well
Cheers
Steve
Your going to love it !! That combo works so well
Cheers
Steve
- Thread starter
- #103
OK, catch up time. I took about 8.5 months off work during COVID and due to some, actually awesome, luck. I am back to work now but definitely due for a catch up on this thread. Its so easy to add to Instagram, on here I need to use my computer and transfer photos, etc.
OK, so from where I left off.
The aluminum oil pan is much narrower as I mentioned but the dipstick becomes a problem. The hole on the aluminum one is a different size and it winds up being very close to the motor mounts. I tried to get one custom made by Lokar but they said that they couldn't deal with the angled mating surface.
There is a hole on either side of the pan. I ended up going with the passenger side one but it's kind of short and comes up in an inconvenient spot.
I think I mentioned it before but the wheel location in the Aqualu opening was not correct.
Way too far forward.
I worked with Rene at Aqualu to get a DXF file that I could use to offset the original curve forward and then printed it out 1:1 at a print shop in town. I tried 2, 2.5 and 3" offset. I ended up cutting it to 2.5".
I know a 40 wheel is supposed to be a bit forward so I was happy with this.
I bought a new welder (MIG only as I have the Synchrowave for TIG Rebel EM215i, nice machine) Anyway this is the roll bar design I came up with. There is a slight forward angle between the rear 1/4 window and the big window so I tilted the rear bar to match and hide between the windows.
OK, so from where I left off.
The aluminum oil pan is much narrower as I mentioned but the dipstick becomes a problem. The hole on the aluminum one is a different size and it winds up being very close to the motor mounts. I tried to get one custom made by Lokar but they said that they couldn't deal with the angled mating surface.
There is a hole on either side of the pan. I ended up going with the passenger side one but it's kind of short and comes up in an inconvenient spot.
I think I mentioned it before but the wheel location in the Aqualu opening was not correct.
Way too far forward.
I worked with Rene at Aqualu to get a DXF file that I could use to offset the original curve forward and then printed it out 1:1 at a print shop in town. I tried 2, 2.5 and 3" offset. I ended up cutting it to 2.5".
I know a 40 wheel is supposed to be a bit forward so I was happy with this.
I bought a new welder (MIG only as I have the Synchrowave for TIG Rebel EM215i, nice machine) Anyway this is the roll bar design I came up with. There is a slight forward angle between the rear 1/4 window and the big window so I tilted the rear bar to match and hide between the windows.
- Thread starter
- #104
The wires on the 4wd switch are a serious joke. I have 2 now that are messed up. I think I might try to get the epoxy out and fix one.
I tried to panel glue the hood support to the hood skin.
It eventually popped off so we just put seam sealer under the edge. I did reweld it into place though.
Vintage Air used this goofy connector for the additional valve kit. I needed about 6 more inches to install the valve under the truck away from all the heat in the engine bay, let alone no good place for it. I have tried for about 3 months to find new terminals (I also lost the original in one of many trips to the parts store, d'oh!), bought a housing from vintage, etc, etc. I finally just ordered another kit and I will splice the end on. That way I will have a spare brain and valve.
This is to control the rear heater.
Filler neck on the Mishimoto rad hit the hood, so I had to change it to just a bung.
I tried to panel glue the hood support to the hood skin.
It eventually popped off so we just put seam sealer under the edge. I did reweld it into place though.
Vintage Air used this goofy connector for the additional valve kit. I needed about 6 more inches to install the valve under the truck away from all the heat in the engine bay, let alone no good place for it. I have tried for about 3 months to find new terminals (I also lost the original in one of many trips to the parts store, d'oh!), bought a housing from vintage, etc, etc. I finally just ordered another kit and I will splice the end on. That way I will have a spare brain and valve.
This is to control the rear heater.
Filler neck on the Mishimoto rad hit the hood, so I had to change it to just a bung.
- Thread starter
- #105
Pressure testing the Rad.
OK, the doors!!! Ugh. The real Steel Cruiser parts are great, really nice pieces.
so, Cancer treatment:
OK, the doors!!! Ugh. The real Steel Cruiser parts are great, really nice pieces.
so, Cancer treatment:
- Thread starter
- #106
More.
As soon as you cut off the skin, this happens:
This is near the top of the lower door:
This got frustrating so we will come back to it.
I repaired the windshield lip that was rotten. I decided to TIG it so I could control the bead better, not a lot of space to grind in there!
As soon as you cut off the skin, this happens:
This is near the top of the lower door:
This got frustrating so we will come back to it.
I repaired the windshield lip that was rotten. I decided to TIG it so I could control the bead better, not a lot of space to grind in there!
- Thread starter
- #107
I really struggled to find anything premade I could use for a coolant catch can. Everything I found had ports in the wrong place or some other issue.
I ended up making one with a piece of 3" Al pipe.
This is early into my Al welding practice!
Update Photos:
Massive overbite on the hood.
I ended up making one with a piece of 3" Al pipe.
This is early into my Al welding practice!
Update Photos:
Massive overbite on the hood.
- Thread starter
- #108
COVID Hair in April just when barbers opened again.
The wiring for the Dakota is a major PITA to keep tidy.
Now, Running boards:
These came with the tub but they are pretty unimpressive.
The wiring for the Dakota is a major PITA to keep tidy.
Now, Running boards:
These came with the tub but they are pretty unimpressive.
- Thread starter
- #109
So I had them Anodized gold. The combo makes me think of Aquaman (The original one)!
Test run day:
I drove it back and forth on our country road to see what needed work.
I didn't like the intake, I didn't like the coolant tank, and a bunch of other items needed addressing.
Priming:
And Paint:
Test run day:
I drove it back and forth on our country road to see what needed work.
I didn't like the intake, I didn't like the coolant tank, and a bunch of other items needed addressing.
Priming:
And Paint:
- Thread starter
- #110
More paint in shade/sun:
I decided to get the flat hole (non countersunk hood hinges because I wanted to use bolts vs F^(^(%*&%$%$$ philips head screws!
These I don't need because I went with the bronze ones.
New Coolant can:
My TIG Al is getting much better but these open corners are really easy.
I decided to get the flat hole (non countersunk hood hinges because I wanted to use bolts vs F^(^(%*&%$%$$ philips head screws!
These I don't need because I went with the bronze ones.
New Coolant can:
My TIG Al is getting much better but these open corners are really easy.
- Thread starter
- #111
Some rusty bits that need repair. (Roof brace over rear doors)
The new catch can has more ports and a drain and fits into a smarter spot and allows for a forward aiming intake.
I am also now incorporating all the connections recommended by cummins, one from lower rad, water neck and block. My pressure cap is on the catch can and Mishimoto says this is fine, so long as I can get the air out.
The new catch can has more ports and a drain and fits into a smarter spot and allows for a forward aiming intake.
I am also now incorporating all the connections recommended by cummins, one from lower rad, water neck and block. My pressure cap is on the catch can and Mishimoto says this is fine, so long as I can get the air out.
- Thread starter
- #112
I completed a thing!
We decided to go with the rear flares since we don't want mud all up the side of the truck but I assumed I would need a different size due to the wheel arch mods I did.
Turns out the flares have nothing to do with the opening size but are designed to look like the front ones in terms of scale! so I just ordered a set of standard "small" flares.
Also, changed the rear marker lights to poison spider units vs the JW speakers. Thats what the welding is about.
We decided to go with the rear flares since we don't want mud all up the side of the truck but I assumed I would need a different size due to the wheel arch mods I did.
Turns out the flares have nothing to do with the opening size but are designed to look like the front ones in terms of scale! so I just ordered a set of standard "small" flares.
Also, changed the rear marker lights to poison spider units vs the JW speakers. Thats what the welding is about.
- Thread starter
- #113
OK, back to the doors. I spent a bunch of time trying to shrink them into shape. I had no clue of what I was doing so eventually got help from the bodyman who did all my sand blasting. He looks at them for a minute then gets a hammer called a horse c@ck! Bangs it a few times and voila!
I carried on after he did a little more for me.
The horse hammer is the one on the left, which I now own along with a few others. An apt name I would venture.
And now the sides, part 1.
There isn't a lot of meat left between the window and the door opening!
I carried on after he did a little more for me.
The horse hammer is the one on the left, which I now own along with a few others. An apt name I would venture.
And now the sides, part 1.
There isn't a lot of meat left between the window and the door opening!
- Thread starter
- #114
Fender bodywork
Priming:
Flares mockup:
Decided to trim some of this. PS Jigsaw works great on the tub.
Then learned that VW fender gasket is the thing to use for this gap:
Priming:
Flares mockup:
Decided to trim some of this. PS Jigsaw works great on the tub.
Then learned that VW fender gasket is the thing to use for this gap:
- Thread starter
- #116
Items that are now Spruce Mica (Toyota 6V4). This is nowhere near perfect and I am no painter but it does the job for us and I did it all myself with some advice from so smart people and some actual real painters.
- Thread starter
- #117
It is mind boggling that Toyota is still making this stuff!
The day had to come where I would go back to work. An opportunity to be the Assistant General Manager for the Brucejack mine came up and I couldn't resist. Luckily it is a camp job so I have time to work on the 40!
Each of these Dore bars are 16kg and over 60% gold. They are worth about $650,000 USD at today's gold price! We produce about 1000oz per day at Brucejack!!!
The day had to come where I would go back to work. An opportunity to be the Assistant General Manager for the Brucejack mine came up and I couldn't resist. Luckily it is a camp job so I have time to work on the 40!
Each of these Dore bars are 16kg and over 60% gold. They are worth about $650,000 USD at today's gold price! We produce about 1000oz per day at Brucejack!!!
- Thread starter
- #118
My big goal when I came back from the mine in September for a week was to get the main body of the truck finished on mods, welded where needed, bodyworked, primed and painted. My spraybooth is inflatable and if I didn't get decent weather (>10 C and dry) for a couple of days I would have to do it in the shop or wait till spring.
Luckily I got just enough dry and warm to prime and paint!
Luckily I got just enough dry and warm to prime and paint!
- Thread starter
- #119
I would up with a lot of junk in the drivers side area. It must have been facing up when I was finishing so all the debris got stuck there.
- Thread starter
- #120
Aaaaand underneath:
I am starting to put things back together:
I am starting to put things back together:
