ScrappyJackalope 2nd gen 4runner Dana 44 sas build. (3 Viewers)

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That looks pretty factory-esque. Nice looking truck for sure. I'd love to find something that clean in the body department. In your area do you not have tire coverage rules and regulation? Aka flares and mudflaps.

I might have missed it, but is the only reason the wheels stick out so much is because of the wheel specs or do all 4 corners have spacers?
Thanks on the factory-esque comment! I built the front axle to 62" it was a 67.5" chevy 44 that I took 5.5" off of total. Stock toyota width is 58.5"

No spacers in front as that was the purpose of building the wider axle. I always try to keep the steering axle wheel centers as close to the steering center to ease loads on ball joints/kindpins, axle ujoints, steering etc..

The rear I put 1.75" spacers for now until I build my wider rear axle to keep things even.

I have had more than a few rigs at this width and have never been hassled. But technically I could get a fixing ticket
 
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It is a tighter fit than most right now but most are running way more than leaf springs should have IMO. But in reality even if I had all the room in the world I would not be having much more uptravel before being on bump stops.

Leaf spring only go so far up before you are just ruining them.

So far driving it I rarely hit bump stops as is. But I do on big G out type things. With my change to the smaller drag link ends, slightly shorter steering arm and smaller bump stops I think it will be about perfect. Basically now it is barely limiting and soon to be exactly where I need it.

I have run a couple in the past with similar clearances so that helped going in. This one was similar with only slightly more lift with a 3" spring and taller spring hanger than what I have right now, had lots of un used travel with bumps placed properly.

My truck has been bumpstopless for the last 15 years or so. I'm not doing any favours to the springs, also around here its seldom you cant get through something with minimal articulation...the most flex my truck sees is for pics, not because I need it. Having said that I havent ever experienced a truck with bump stops.... my truck has always ridden smooth, no banging clunking...likely just pure spring inversion when it needs to. No idea how much up travel I use at any given time, cruising or wheeling. Its nice to know that very little up travel is likely needed. I just assumed 3-4" isnt enough. I'm going to set up some adjustable bumps on my truck and use that as the learning grounds before my next build to determine what kind of action I like.
 
Thanks on the factory-esque comment! I built the front axle to 62" it was a 67.5" chevy 44 that I took 5.5" off of total. Stock toyota width is 58.5"

No spacers in front as that was the purpose of building the wider axle. I always try to keep the steering axle wheel centers as close to the steering center to ease loads on ball joints/kindpins, axle ujoints, steering etc..

The rear I put 1.75" spacers for now until I build my wider rear axle to keep things even.

I have had more than a few rigs at this width and have never been hassled. But technically I could get a fixing ticket
Ah 62" WMS vs stock 58.5... Thats what was throwing me off. Im not fully upto speed on my stock widths, apparently, lol.
 
My truck has been bumpstopless for the last 15 years or so. I'm not doing any favours to the springs, also around here its seldom you cant get through something with minimal articulation...the most flex my truck sees is for pics, not because I need it. Having said that I havent ever experienced a truck with bump stops.... my truck has always ridden smooth, no banging clunking...likely just pure spring inversion when it needs to. No idea how much up travel I use at any given time, cruising or wheeling. Its nice to know that very little up travel is likely needed. I just assumed 3-4" isnt enough. I'm going to set up some adjustable bumps on my truck and use that as the learning grounds before my next build to determine what kind of action I like.
If it isn't hitting bump stops it would eventually bottom out on the shock. Kind of a balancing act. You want a shock that allows it to travel up as far you want and a long enough shock to let you droop enough.

If your spring is stiff enough and have a lot of arch you may never have a problem with it going backwards too far.
 
If it isn't hitting bump stops it would eventually bottom out on the shock. Kind of a balancing act. You want a shock that allows it to travel up as far you want and a long enough shock to let you droop enough.

If your spring is stiff enough and have a lot of arch you may never have a problem with it going backwards too far.
It has 14" shocks roughly placed in the middle of their travel... maybe 1" less. The truck is blown apart right now and I dont recall 100% at this time. The axle free hanging the shocks arent fully extended and I dont think I have ever bottomed the shock out on compression. The spring sits relatively flat at ride height... its a pretty hammered out 15yrold "marlin long travel" lift spring. It doesnt take much up travel to get the spring looking like its doing the funky S bend. I dont jump the truck, probably why I havent ever bottomed out the shock...at FULL wheel stuff, where the spring is doing a proper negative arch downward spiral S bend, I have around 1/2" shock shaft showing. In any event I'd like a new set of leafs appropriately bumped and go from there into my next sega. Your Dana 44 has kind of inspired me to maybe build a d44 based something, but I've already got a lot of $ into a stock Toyota housing. I guess all I would need is a aftermarket housing.

Is there much of a difference between your d44 and a stock Toyota axle as far as drag link clearance is concerned?

Im kind of writing off the tie rod, as I suppose you'll have drag link problems before tie rod problems with a Toyota axle.
 
It has 14" shocks roughly placed in the middle of their travel... maybe 1" less. The truck is blown apart right now and I dont recall 100% at this time. The axle free hanging the shocks arent fully extended and I dont think I have ever bottomed the shock out on compression. The spring sits relatively flat at ride height... its a pretty hammered out 15yrold "marlin long travel" lift spring. It doesnt take much up travel to get the spring looking like its doing the funky S bend. I dont jump the truck, probably why I havent ever bottomed out the shock...at FULL wheel stuff, where the spring is doing a proper negative arch downward spiral S bend, I have around 1/2" shock shaft showing. In any event I'd like a new set of leafs appropriately bumped and go from there into my next sega. Your Dana 44 has kind of inspired me to maybe build a d44 based something, but I've already got a lot of $ into a stock Toyota housing. I guess all I would need is a aftermarket housing.

Is there much of a difference between your d44 and a stock Toyota axle as far as drag link clearance is concerned?

Im kind of writing off the tie rod, as I suppose you'll have drag link problems before tie rod problems with a Toyota axle.


Sound like you got you money's worth out of them springs 😀 once up on a time I knew the differences between the Dana 44 and toyota on arms. Basically though you do have more options with the 44's. Folks make real short arms and you can go real high as well. Lots of stock out there..

I am contemplating going to a air bump. Have head good stuff with some of them..
 
The springs dont owe me anything, thats for sure. I dont know what to replace them with.

Air bumps are blingy... its my understanding theyd be ideal for higher speed... cant see them being worth the investment benefit for slower speed.

I have some rubber bumps from a GM something or other. They're 3-4" tall round and cone shaped...theyre allegedly equivalemt to a budget timbren. Im thinking i'll set them up to engage just as the spring goes flat and then any extra the bump compresses will be for my spirited hits.

Do you have any pics of how you set your front bumps up?....i know theres tons of pics already on the net...but I like to see lol
 
The springs dont owe me anything, thats for sure. I dont know what to replace them with.

Air bumps are blingy... its my understanding theyd be ideal for higher speed... cant see them being worth the investment benefit for slower speed.

I have some rubber bumps from a GM something or other. They're 3-4" tall round and cone shaped...theyre allegedly equivalemt to a budget timbren. Im thinking i'll set them up to engage just as the spring goes flat and then any extra the bump compresses will be for my spirited hits.

Do you have any pics of how you set your front bumps up?....i know theres tons of pics already on the net...but I like to see lol
I will might take a couple pics this weekend when I make my changes,

And the more I think about air bumps, I think they can be very beneficial even on a daily. I think of any time I have felt them hit it has been a fast suspension action or g out. So if you can dampen that bottom out in a controlled fashion it could be very advantageous in my mind. One way to find out 😀
 
I will might take a couple pics this weekend when I make my changes,

And the more I think about air bumps, I think they can be very beneficial even on a daily. I think of any time I have felt them hit it has been a fast suspension action or g out. So if you can dampen that bottom out in a controlled fashion it could be very advantageous in my mind. One way to find out 😀

I can see that... which is why I decided on the tall and squishy style bumpstop. The little triangle puck looking deals or the poly cones look to be pretty harsh and more of a fast and hard stop rather than a soft squishy progressive stop.
 
These are the ones I got. A budget air bump, if you will....atleast thats what I tell myself, lol. Pn 15712438

I'll have nothing to compare them to...but I'm hoping these save me a $800 bill on air bumps. Air bumps are initially what I wanted.
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It has been a while since I posted so here are a couple things I have been playing with. A new set of 35x12.15 km3s on 15x10 wheels and a addicted off road front bumper. I have only test fit the bumper as seen in pics. I am getting it powder coated this week. Doing a silvery artery powder coat to match the 22reperformance valve cover 😀
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Here you go folks, Powder coating turned out awesome in my opinion. Can't wait to build my read and do the same color. As far as the Addicted offroad front i love the look for sure. It's fit is not good if you want to not cut your core support. It was also tilted down in the front some which I will have to shim to level out not the final mounting but looking good to me so far.
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I really like your truck. It is up there with one of the nicest possible examples of SAS truck. It makes me question my '85 pickup build :hmm: Maybe years down the road when I need 4 doors.

What is the height from the ground to the center of the front leaf eye bolt?
 
I really like your truck. It is up there with one of the nicest possible examples of SAS truck. It makes me question my '85 pickup build :hmm: Maybe years down the road when I need 4 doors.

What is the height from the ground to the center of the front leaf eye bolt?
Thanks 😀

I just measure at 23.25" from ground to center of front spring bolt.
 
I replied on your FB post, but figured it's time I stop lurking here and post. Well built second gens are making me question my choice of sticking in the 1st gen world. But, I am already set on a path..

Love the stance of this thing. Can't stand seeing tall narrow toyotas.
 

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