ScrappyJackalope 2nd gen 4runner Dana 44 sas build. (1 Viewer)

Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Messages
84
Location
Tennessee And California
Hey Folks, Time to do the Build thread..

@scrappyjackalope on IG for build pics as we go.. updates here from time to time..

Ok, history on 4runner.... Bought from a 73 year old Little old lady original owner from down in Ventura. This thing is clean and I intend to keep that way :)
250k miles but to me seems like a 60k mile 4runner. The stack of receipts she gave me when I bought must add up to about $100k ..haha

Any ways so far I have built a 22re for it. Runs fantastic but also have a 22re performance built motor I will put in till the 1uz swap next year..

As far as the way it sits this moment it is 100% stock suspension with some 33x10.5x15 bfg's. 4.88's with a eaton/harrop electric locker in rear. All new suspension components cv's etc.. I took out the ADD and added some new Aisin locking hubs.

Now for the plans..
Custom build by me 62 to 65" wide dana 44 with 4.88s and a eaton elocker
Leaf spring solid axle swap right away but 4WU 3 link soon enough
63" chevy rears.. maybe a custom 4 link later or Deaver spring under 62" later..
Marlin Built 150/r151f hybrid transmission
23 spline marlin 4.7 gears
Custom rear bumper
Custom front bumper
toyotafiberglass.com front fenders
some sort of fabbed rear axle housing at about 63 to 64" eventually. Just gonna use some spacers to even it a bit for now.

But the biggest thing I am looking forward too is the 1UZ.. I have put a lot of time considering lot of different motor swaps from the Cummins B2.8 to the 3.4, LS, SBF, SBC heck even a turbo k24 or 2jz.. but everything keeps me coming back to the 1UZ.. killed motor and it is hard to compare to the v8 sound.. for as wide as it is it fits pretty well and there is a ton of support for all things 1UZ swap.

So anyways feel free to follow along. I will get busy with the long travel this week but more than likely won't finish up till the week of the 4th of July. Hopefully I will have it driving to the pacific mountain cruisers swap meet on the 9th in Petaluma..
20220620_183003.jpg
20220620_185002.jpg
20220620_183933.jpg
20220613_174736.jpg
20220611_161510.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
551
Location
San Diego North
Is there a reason you are going with the Eaton over a traditional locker? The fact that they take a quarter turn to lock and unlock when reversing for a half turn kept me from choosing that brand. I have the video starting at the description of how the Eaton works.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Messages
84
Location
Tennessee And California
Is there a reason you are going with the Eaton over a traditional locker? The fact that they take a quarter turn to lock and unlock when reversing for a half turn kept me from choosing that brand. I have the video starting at the description of how the Eaton works.

I have used them a couple years now and love them, matter a fact they are OEM in the newer gen 3Tacoma as well as others, or at least the basic design. If you haven't run one you should try it. The 1/4 turn unlocked thing technically may be true but in practice I just haven't experienced any issues or even noticed for that matter. I personally dislike airlockers but love selectable. I have run factory toyota elockers front and rear many times over the years but really dislike them for front applications and you don't have to modify the housing with the eaton. So to me a win win.
 
Joined
Jul 31, 2007
Messages
551
Location
San Diego North
It's the unlocking in reverse that concerns me most. What if you have a tire off the ground and you put it in reverse and the locker unlocks.? When is it going to lock again? Is it the tire with traction that needs to turn half a turn before the locker locks again or is it going to stay unlocked because there's a tire off the ground and it's now open?
 
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Messages
84
Location
Tennessee And California
It's the unlocking in reverse that concerns me most. What if you have a tire off the ground and you put it in reverse and the locker unlocks. When is it going to lock again? Is it the tire with traction that needs to turn half a turn before the locker locks again?
All I can say is they lock instantly. and never felt anything strange. Sometimes the internet can make issues out of non issues. But either way glad there are lots of decent options out there.
 
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Messages
84
Location
Tennessee And California
Disassembly begins..

First stock measurements, I hear different things on how much it raises the vehicle so no better way to confirm other than measure myself before and after. Hoping to keep at no more than 3" these 600lb spring I think are going to be to stiff for my use so we will see.

And these are the fenders I think I am going to order from toyotafiberglass.com. photo courtesy of desktoglory YouTube channel screenshot

Screenshot_20220629-190411_YouTube.jpg
 

jynx

Turd Herder
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
10,072
Location
Eagleville, TN
@liveoak these are E-lockers, so when electricity is applied it engages an electromagnet that locks the diff. It won't unlock until the 12v is switched off and then the quarter turn is to ensure the ramps are disengaged. The diff has springs that push it out. And if not under load, it may disengage without the reverse action. The reverse is just to make sure it is unloaded fully. So reversing alone won't disengage the locker, you have to physically turn it off.

@Pat4wd following along with the build. I love that this 2nd gen has the 22re in it. Don't see that often. Even if it is short for the world, still super cool.
 
Last edited:

G-Cat

SILVER Star
Joined
Jan 2, 2003
Messages
5,583
Location
Georgia
In here and on Instagram. 1UZ…love it.
 
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Messages
84
Location
Tennessee And California
Here are some more pics of the progress haven't been able to do too much but making progress none the less.

Update with the Total Chaos kit. We'll for the premium price of this kit so far there are a lot of issues in terms of quality IMO. Not trying to bash Total Chaos just being honest for others to see if they were to consider buying their products.

#1 UCA passenger side is not square in terms of cross shaft bushing bores. In the pic below you can clearly see the offset shaft with no bushing in it on one side after being installed in the other bore properly. I will put a machinist straight edge on and get another pic of bores
20220702_154114.jpg


This to me is a big deal as you are trying to make a high performance suspension here and this will affect suspension movement and create premature bushing wear. Basically I can get everything together but it is essentially bound up and creating lots of resistance to movement which is self defeating with the goal of creating a performance long travel suspension. Also the bushing to bushing sleeve ratio is wrong. Using the factory toyota large bushing sleeve you harvest from the old bushing. Not a fan the sleeve isn't supplied first off then second I had to shim the sleeve as to not completely squash the bushing when properly tightening the nuts.. also their shock hoops arent bent square and their notches for the weld joints to the frame mounts are are wonky and needing fixed.. On the small side bushing of the UCA they want you to use the toyota convex bushing washer on the flat faced bushing. Not the correct washer for that application. Not pictured below.I can post a pic if someone needs it though.


Shim I made to get it to an acceptable amount of bushing squeeze unlike pic below that.
20220702_154159.jpg


Bushing squashed big time without shim. Couldn't move UCA at all so much resistance
20220701_203457.jpg


I will call them Tuesday and show them pics. I also need to do the same test fit with the drivers side arm.

Also like I may have said before the instructions they supply are very lacking. All they are are mediocre drawings at best. I know this is a project that entails fab skills but they could do a lot more for the customer in this regard at the price point they get for their kits.

Anyways here a few other random pics of test fitting things before doing any welding.

Just some fitting before welding
20220702_164420.jpg



Using some zip ties to try to see where shock mounting will end up before doing any welding
20220702_203018.jpg
 
Last edited:
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Messages
84
Location
Tennessee And California
Couple others, shock hoops bent a little off, both
20220702_191534.jpg



convex washer and flat bushing
20220702_155159.jpg




Shim I made to reduce gross over squash of bushing.
20220702_154159.jpg





Showing where old downtravel stop was
20220702_163659.jpg
 
Last edited:

jynx

Turd Herder
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
10,072
Location
Eagleville, TN
The likes are for the progress, not for the issues.

I agree, at the PP that you are at with that kit and as long as they have been producing it, one would expect that all the bugs would be worked out and their jigs would be spot in by now. Sorry your having the issues. But I am enjoying the progress
 
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Messages
84
Location
Tennessee And California
Ok so I went out and checked the other UCA and it is as bad but in another direction so that tells me the bore center of the arms being offset are not by design but rather poor jigging or procedures during manufacturing

20220703_115941.jpg


I can not see any reason why you would not want anything other than a perfect centered arm pivot point anyways but figured I better cover all my bases before I call them. I even rotated the cross shaft and it is dead nuts straight. Then I thought I better pull the polyurethane bushing and rotate it to eliminate the chance it is off, but all stayed the same when I rotated the bushing 180*

Went ahead and starting looking at the lower arms and they seem to be better at least according the machinest straight edge. A closer look coming soon
20220703_120506.jpg
 
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Messages
84
Location
Tennessee And California
The likes are for the progress, not for the issues.

I agree, at the PP that you are at with that kit and as long as they have been producing it, one would expect that all the bugs would be worked out and their jigs would be spot in by now. Sorry your having the issues. But I am enjoying the progress
Thank Jynx!
 

jynx

Turd Herder
SILVER Star
Joined
Apr 24, 2010
Messages
10,072
Location
Eagleville, TN
That looks like a good time waiting to happen! What cv shafts are you running with the kit? Can't wait to see how it sits.
 
Joined
Jun 29, 2018
Messages
84
Location
Tennessee And California
Back on the road! Super happy with ride height and stance. I added OME 1.5" rear coils and 1.75" rear wheel spacer to get the track width close to the front.

But now for the not so good, it handles on road like garbage! Toe is good(1/8"toe in) and it has plenty of postive +caster(not sure of degree yet) which from my experience are the 2 biggies for on road handling. But heck I haven't played much with IFS. Basically, it tracks straight but on turn in it just kind of takes off and you find yourself in a constant battle with steering inputs. These uni balls are EXTREMELY stiff. Like crazy stiff, I read they will break in but holy smokes I won't be surprised if these are playing a big role in the onroad manners


Also at this ride height it is 2" higher than stock. I can't imagine wanting to be much higher either with these long travel arms for ride height. So the folks saying you get 3.5 to 4" lift over stock are smoking something :) That being said as far as ride height I am super pleased, I wanted low. Matter a fact before I put in the rear springs this morning, I took it to Petaluma swap meet yesterday at completely stock height
20220710_131953 (2).jpg
20220710_132010 (2).jpg
20220710_132022 (2).jpg
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom