Scoop on Alternators? 80, 90, 130, 140, 150A. Do I hear 220...?

[rdcnj]

I have all sorts of accessories, a Warn M12K winch, ARB refrigerator, etc.
I run a single Interstate MTZ battery with the stock 80 amp alternator.
Never had an issue.
Keep it simple, limit the amount of failure points, use high quality cable and connections that are rated for the load.

I am at the point now where I need a rear 12V accessory with enough power to run a fridge and potentially charge a battery pack.

Can you share any insight on how you wired your truck with the stock setup for this?

I found that charging the battery pack from the front 12V accessory, I was getting a max of 3.75 amps of charging to the unit. But turning on my parking lights, would reduce this to half.

I am going to check all my connections and possibly upgrade some cables.

Was curious to how to get good power to rear of vehicle, without going full dual battery.

Appreciate any insight you can share.

 

[Broski]

I am at the point now where I need a rear 12V accessory with enough power to run a fridge and potentially charge a battery pack.

Can you share any insight on how you wired your truck with the stock setup for this?

I found that charging the battery pack from the front 12V accessory, I was getting a max of 3.75 amps of charging to the unit. But turning on my parking lights, would reduce this to half.

I am going to check all my connections and possibly upgrade some cables.

Was curious to how to get good power to rear of vehicle, without going full dual battery.

Appreciate any insight you can share.

Heavy draw items need to pull directly from the battery with proper size fuses, and wire.
Here's my set up.

The re-settable breaker is for the 12 volt compressor, the blue seas fuse panel runs the ARB fridge, Ham radio, Light Bar & Tablet.
With the biggest group 31 I could fit.

I also use a Hand throttle, to boost the idol when winching or using the compressor.

 

[rdcnj]

Nice setup @Broski Thank you for sharing!

 

[jonheld]

I am at the point now where I need a rear 12V accessory with enough power to run a fridge and potentially charge a battery pack.

Can you share any insight on how you wired your truck with the stock setup for this?

I found that charging the battery pack from the front 12V accessory, I was getting a max of 3.75 amps of charging to the unit. But turning on my parking lights, would reduce this to half.

I am going to check all my connections and possibly upgrade some cables.

Was curious to how to get good power to rear of vehicle, without going full dual battery.

Appreciate any insight you can share.

Keep in mind the ONLY thing I'm using rear power for is the fridge and a USB or 2 to plug in a phone or charge a USB fan or other crap. You will need to properly size wires/fuses based on your needs.

My fridge is 15+ years old, and the boilerplate says 7A@12VDC or 84 watts. About 35% more than a single headlight bulb.
I ran #12 wire (both hot and ground) from my Blue Sea 5025ST aux fuse panel (10 amp fuse) in the engine bay to my Blue Sea 360 panel with a standard 12V receptacle and a dual USB port. The 360 panel is mounted in place of the 3rd row seat ashtray and the 2 ports are wired in parallel. Total length including service loops is about 15'.

The #12 wire is more than sufficient for constant and peak loads including the run length as it's 65% oversized. I'm OK with that and wouldn't go smaller. I'd rather have oversized wires and lower rated fuses in my life.

Cables run down the passenger side cableway at the edge of the carpet, and are wrapped in some Nomex sheath stuff that I found on McMaster.
I had intended to change out the 12V receptacle for an Anderson plug, but it's never been an issue in either truck I had the fridge in.

 

[rdcnj]

Thank you @jonheld