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- #381
Builds Savirc Aircruiser build
- Thread starter savirc
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- #382
Rebuilding Icons is easy, and yes I put a how to somewhere here. All you need is a source of nitrogen. Kit is available directly from Icon.
You can probably revalve by changing the spacers but I would not mess with it. They probably have to go in specific order to meet your criteria and I wouldn't even know where to start on how many spacers and what order.
I am getting ready to rebuild my Icons with CDC. My rear is leaking after about 25k miles since the last rebuild. I got my rebuild kit from Toytec because it was local. They were super helpful and rebuild these inhouse all the time. Mike helped me and was ready to answer any questions I had which I thought was awesome because I was just buying the parts (and not paying for them to rebuild the). So Toytec has the rebuild kits for whatever shock you have. Mike also said that if you contact Icon directly, they will answer questions of how to revalve them. Contrary to what I expected to hear, Mike said sometimes to make them stiffer, you remove some of the washers from the stack. That said, I would call Icon directly and they should be able to explain how to revalve.
Oh and there is the issue of getting the nitrogen charge done. A suspension shop should be able to help with that if you choose to do your own rebuild. Toytec charges a nominal fee to recharge the shocks I am rebuilding.
Your how to guide was what inspired me to attempt this myself. It is saved in my LC maintenance bookmarks!
Reputable ICON shock build shops
forum.ih8mud.com
Yikes. What did that set you back, about 2k? Sure is shiney and purdy though. Did they require a core?
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- #388
Last year I paid paid around 700-800 (cant remember) for a brand new accumulator and motor (for sale soon) and took care of some issues but recently started having other issues that are related to the other part of the assembly which is OOS everywhere so had to buy the entire unit at $2400 that include both parts. No core.
My Scepter fuel cans can take some serious hits without rupturing. I understand the concern (I'm old enough to remember the Pinto), but frankly never really considered it as a safety issue. I generally only carry the "full" jerry cans on long trips which involve a LOT of off-road travel. For daily driving, I rarely keep them on.
skyblue
SILVER Star
Hey @savirc... I'm about to tackle this (getting wire to the roof) on my '04. Any secrets I should know? What's the secret to dropping the headliner? I think mine is different than yours in that there is not a plastic molding at the perimeter of the headliner... The headliner comes all the way down to the pillar trim. (see pic)
Also, where is the best place to enter the windshield pillar from the engine bay?
Thanks!
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- #391
@skyblue
Interesting, I didn't know the upper section changed on newer models. I'm not sure I'll be of any help as far as removing the headliner since its completely different. I know on mine it had to be done a certain way no other way. Starting from front to back each side door panel had to be removed in order. then the headliner just kind of slowly fell down on the head rests.
If your roof is the same as the 01 you should have one or two additional bolt holes on the roof rack rails that are not used. You can get wiring to the roof using these holes. Get wire thru there and make a knot on the wire from the outside (pics on my build thread) then silicone the knot.
As far as how to get the wires from the firewall thru the pillars that is pretty straight forward. The hardest part is deciding to drill hole on firewall or not. If you are going to be wiring a lot of other items I would suggest making a wire loom for future use. I made one with something like 12 wires and made a whole with a boot to look nice (on my build thread as well). There is a specific spot on the firewall on the 01 where you can do this nicely and not accidentally hit anything while making the firewall hole. Alternatively you can make a slit on the existing firewall boot(s) but in my experience you can't fit more than one or two wires thru there without compromising the stock boot for water intrusion.
skyblue
SILVER Star
Thanks for the help...
I'll try to stumble through it..
I'll try to stumble through it..
- Thread starter
- #393
This tool makes it super easy to fish wires thru a pillarThanks for the help...
I'll try to stumble through it..
!
Could you please elaborate on what kind of brake issues you had to deal with? I replaced the motor and accumulator assembly along with master cylinder piston, about a year and half ago because my brake pedal was soft and it required the second pump to get full braking force.
Since then I had to also adjust the clavicle on the master cylinder piston to get rid of the initial free play in the pedal.
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- #395
I think it will be helpful if I describe the issues with a timeline.
Nov 2018 @ 90K miles - I started having the "dead seagull sounds" yes it sounds like a seagull in distress that is the best way to describe the noise. No alarms yet, but noise was annoying and it only would surface in cold mornings. I decided to replace the accumulator and pump OEM new, No other problems surfaced up until late last year.
October 2019 @ 97k miles - We drove to Arkansas for a cruiser crawl. Nothing out of the ordinary en route but the weather was colder in Arkansas than Texas and once we arrived I would start the truck in the morning and the alarm would go off and not go away for minutes. This was concerning as it had never gone off or if it had it would go for no more than a few seconds. This time it was staying on for minutes, and we were climbing and descending steep hills, in a way it ruin the trip as I didn't use the truck as much as I wanted to out of safety concerns.
Today the truck has a new assembly top to bottom and all issues have disappeared. In total over 3 grand was spent resolving this issue. Honestly I wish I had gotten the new complete assembly from the beginning, and not dealt with the ups and downs, concerns of safety and extra work. Also its not fun to deal with these issues on vacation trips, peace of mind has value. I should add that in no instance did I ever lose brake power, never.
Upon inspection of the old motor, on the first replacement I could see heavy wear (pic is on this thread somewhere), so even with my truck not having many miles I don't think it was a waste to just replace that at the time but only bought me a year. As far as the second failure a year later I'm convinced (but can't prove) that the rubber seals had wore and were not holding pressure anymore (rubber shrinkage in cold mornings) and the new motor and accumulator just bought me time by working extra hard building pressure, something the old motor couldn't do anymore. Getting new accumulator and motor will buy you time, but there is no escaping the wear on the seals. The seals are not just on the master cylinder either, there are seals inside of the apparatus that cannot be replaced.
IMO one has to write off this expense as part of owning a 100 series,if you own one or are shopping for one ask if it has been replaced. I compare this to the IMS issue on the porsche 997s you ask if it has been replaced if not prepare your self to replace it.
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Thanks for saying that! Yours is pretty young (miles wise) but it shows how this is probably more age related than miles.
I got lucky that I was able to get away with just replacing the MC piston!
neilsen100
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me too!
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- #400
Modded my cruisergrill from @kelly saad which I absolutely love. I have my winch lever inside the engine bay so no one can mess with it but can't reach it well without cutting my arm so I trimmed up the cruiser grille and wala!
