Fire and Ice
When you're safe at home, you wish you were having an adventure.
When you're having an adventure, you wish you were safe at home.
--Thornton Wilder
Within minutes of leaving Steve and Suzy I've gassed up The Turtle and found my way to Interstate 25. By 0900 we're humming along at an easy clip, with Sheridan, Wyoming 425 miles due north. In keeping with my cheapo travel plan I've booked a room at a new Motel 6 in Sheridan, fifty bucks and change. It must be pretty elegant because it's more than twice as expensive as the same Motel 6 room in Pueblo. At the very least I'm expecting fresh flowers and chocolates on my pillow. Possibly even a complimentary champagne brunch. Or since it's Wyoming, a beer brunch. I pass through only three cities of any size before reaching Sheridan. Fort Collins is sixty five miles north of Denver; Cheyenne is another forty miles, just across the state line, and Casper is slightly more than halfway to Sheridan. I've been averaging around 13 mpg and with a 16 gallon tank, I'll need to refuel in Cheyenne and again in Casper. That should get me to Sheridan with a few drops to spare. My butt usually can't tolerate more than 300 miles a day in a 40 but this drive is all smooth interstate highway and stretching the distance doesn't seem unreasonable. Weather radar is showing only spotty precipitation across northern Colorado and Wyoming. This looks like an easy drive, and The Turtle and I are about due for one.
An hour later and we're approaching the outskirts of Fort Collins when snow begins falling. Clear skies to this point, and there was no snow in the forecast. None. But here it comes, and not little flakes floating on the wind, but more of those fat sloppy flakes like we saw on Raton Pass three days earlier. First there's only a few of them splatting on the windshield, but the makeshift duck tape weatherstrip works as we intended and I'm enjoying watching it snow. It doesn't seem to be sticking, the heater is blowing like a little furnace, and I have a fully functional clutch. With absolutely nothing to worry about, I keep driving.
"I generally avoid temptation, unless I can't resist it."
--Mae West
I begin seeing exits for Fort Collins and within minutes of the first flakes, we pass a sign for Colorado State University. The occasional flakes from only minutes earlier have become a squall, and visibility is now a serious problem. I slow to 30 and begin hugging the right shoulder, trying to stay on the road by following the tail lights of an 18 wheeler. This doesn't work for long as this guy is haulin' ass and I watch his lights quickly disappear into the white. Not good. I'm barely an hour out of Denver and I begin considering options. If this is a small weather system I can probably drive through it, which is my preference. I can also backtrack to Denver, or I can find a place to stop until the weather clears. I'm thinking about the best course of action when I notice that I'm sweating and feeling lightheaded, and my right leg feels hot. Strange, because it isn't that warm inside the truck, and I know I'm not ill. I don't smell anything unusual that would signal a mechanical problem, and for a moment I wonder if the heat I'm feeling is coming off the tranny. But that can't be it. I would have noticed earlier. Then I have another epiphany, my second one of this trip. The heat is coming from inside the Tuffy and it's about to burn a hole in my leg. It's that slip of paper, Gayla's kryptonite paper.
Gayla, the road stop girl from Colorado State...
"She hands me a folded sheet from her spiral notebook. 'My phone numbers. If you're ever near Fort Collins and need a place to stay...or just want to meet for coffee. Or a beer...' She leans in and gives me a little peck on the cheek, turns, and leaves. I toss her sheet of paper into the Tuffy"
I refresh my memory. Yeah, like it needs refreshing....Elle Macpherson look alike. Lives 10 miles north of Fort Collins. In a remote little cabin. Probably has a fire burning in the fireplace. Bearskin rug. Hot buttered rum. Oatmeal stout in the fridge. I know she has a collection of old John Prine, Keen and Van Zandt tunes, and she also mentioned Diana Krall. I know about that kinda music. If I went to her cabin to wait out the storm, I could be snowed in for days. Dammit! Didn't I just have this conversation with myself less than a week ago?
"What goes around comes back around
And I've been around a few times by now
I've seen it all before and I've paid my dues
Well my Mama didn't raise no fool"
-- Firehouse
Even though I already know how this is gonna go, my brain doesn't cooperate and forces me to go through the exercise. I guess it's a test.
Pros: A warm, comfortable refuge from the storm, with the added bonus of enjoying the company of my new friend. Completely innocent, right?
Cons: A warm comfortable refuge from the storm, with the added bonus of enjoying the company of my new friend. Completely innocent? Who am I kidding?
After all, I'm not dead yet. Men are men, and best intentions aside, it isn't tough to figure out where this could go. But all that analyzing is nothing but background noise. There's really just two things I need to remember and this conversation is over. First is my Grandfather's wise observation that you can learn everything you need to know about a man's character by watching what he does when he thinks no one is looking. And second, I'm not enjoying this adventure simply because of Yooper and Uncle Meldon. I'm here because my wife gave it the green light without a second of hesitation. She said "Do it, have fun, take notes, and come home safely." My wife rocks, and only a fool would intentionally screw up a situation as good as mine. As the song says, my Mama didn't raise no fool. I turn on the hazard flashers, stop and sit on the shoulder until the next 18 wheeler comes along, then lock in on its tail lights and keep driving.
Following semis seems to be working, but only in small increments. Even with virtually zero visibility, they're all blitzing along at 60 mph plus, and I'm trying to hang back at a safe distance driving considerably slower. I follow one for a few miles, lose it, pull over and wait for the next one. The scary thing is, the road is completely covered with snow and when I stop, I can't tell whether I'm smack in the middle of the highway or safely on the shoulder. Most of us like to flatter ourselves by thinking we're unflappable and fearless, the macho thing, but of course that's a lie. We all have our private fears, and there certainly are some things that scare the crap out of me. Rattlesnakes and grizzly bear come to mind, but if you're careful they're easy to avoid. But then there are those other fears that aren't so easy to avoid. I remember once having a conversation with Yooper about helo landings. I told him that I'd never have confessed this when I was younger, but feet wet approaches and shipboard landings in rough seas always scared the living $hit out of me. Now that I'm a grownup, I'm not ashamed to admit it. Snow blindness and not knowing whether you're sitting in the path of a 40 ton semi ranks right up there on my scaredy-cat scale. I'm not ashamed to admit that either. Fear aside, of the options on the table, playing chicken in a blizzard clearly takes a back seat to lounging in front of Gayla's fireplace. Not that I'd know anything about that, but I do have a vivid imagination and it keeps my mind off the immediate problem. Coasting on good luck and accumulated Cruiser karma, we continue creeping along and after following something like a dozen 18 wheelers, a few miles at the time, we make it to Cheyenne. It's almost noon. We've covered 100 miles in a little under three hours, the last forty in two hours, but we're here and still in one piece so there's no room to complain. The weather hasn't improved and we need gas. I decide to sit tight in Cheyenne for a while.
The last semi we follow leads us directly to a friendly looking Love's Truck Stop just outside the city limits. I fill The Turtle and go inside to thaw out and find some coffee. I'm wearing my only pair of big boy pants and a couple of long sleeve shirts but I still don't have a coat. If this weather persists across Wyoming and Montana, I'm gonna need to come up with warmer attire. I talk to a trucker filling his thermos at the coffee bar and he says conditions are about the same from here all the way to Sheridan. Possibly a bit less snow, but it's colder and there's freezing rain in the mix. The restaurant is almost empty but inside I find a guy who looks like he might be a local. I introduce myself and tell him I need to source a heavy coat. He asks if I know about Sierra Trading Post. A light comes on; of course I do. I've bought from Sierra through their web site for years, but didn't know they had a walk in store. He gives me directions and advises me to go upstairs and check their clearance racks. He says there's odd sizes of name brand gear there for 80% off retail. Excellent.
Maintenance crews in Cheyenne have managed to keep the local roads clear and I have no trouble getting to Sierra Trading Post on the east side of town. It's a new but rustic looking building that resembles a ski lodge, only a half dozen cars in the lot. Directly in front of the door is the best looking Defender 90 I've ever seen, yellow with a black soft top, covered with just enough snow to make it look like a staged scene. I park beside the Defender. I'm well aware of the litany of complaints about no-good Range Rovers, but I've always felt the D-90 was one of the very few vehicles that rivals an FJ40 in coolness and seeing this one up close does nothing to change my mind. If I were Bill Gates I'd already own one, or several. I ogle it for a few minutes but can't stand the cold, so I go inside and take my time warming up while plundering the bargain racks. They have every name brand of outdoor gear I've heard of and some I haven't. It's not difficult to find what I need. A medium-heavy weight Patagonia jacket for twenty dollars, and a pair of Gore-Tex lined Scarpa boots for thirty. Not a bad score, fifty bucks for a jacket and boots that would have easily cost around four hundred in Austin.
I pay and go outside, and standing by The Turtle is the most perfect looking couple I've seen outside of magazines. He's handsome and she's beautiful and they're both dressed to the nines in designer outdoor duds, wardrobes by Ralph Lauren. They look like models for Elle and GQ, and apparently they belong to the D-90. Mr. Handsome says something about admiring my Land Cruiser. He says he's always wanted an old FJ40 but hasn't had time to look around. I don't know if he's serious or just being polite but at least he knows it isn't a Jeep. His wife (I assume she's the wife) is shivering and looks impatient. She says "Honey, if you like it, why don't you just buy this one, from him?" What the hell? Her suggestion is so presumptuous that I don't even know what to say. Is this the way wealthy people operate--see something they want and just assume they can buy it? I don't say anything, and to his credit, Mr. Handsome looks embarrassed. He tells her that the gentleman (me) hasn't said it was for sale and besides, they need to be on their way to Jackson Hole if they hope to get in before dark. I happen to know that its well over 400 miles to Jackson Hole. There's no way they'll make it by dark, and I think he knows it, but that shuts her up, and they leave. They probably have an ad to shoot, then cocktails with Brad and Angelina.
It looks like the snow is over but according to the thermometer outside the trading post door, it's twelve degrees and now there's a freezing drizzle coming down. Visibility isn't impaired by snow or rain, but the windshield is iced over and I'm sure the streets are well on their way to icing. I fire up the 2F and scrape the windshield. When the defroster begins doing its thing, I turn the wipers on and notice a new problem. The blades are an inch too long and at the top of their sweep, the rubber blade bumps over the top of the windshield gasket. This wasn't an issue when clearing wet snow off the glass, but it doesn't cut it for rain and ice pellets. I leave the engine running and go back inside where I get directions to a nearby Auto Zone. There's one on my way out of town and easy to find. I'm there in minutes and fortunately they have the correct size wiper blades. Normally changing blades is a five minute chore; today nothing is that easy. I return to the parking lot and find the blade rubbers already frozen to the windshield. They aren't just frozen; they're embedded in a quarter inch sheet of ice that formed in the short time I was inside buying blades. I crank the defroster on again and begin scraping. Freeing the rubber from the windshield is accomplished quickly, but there's a chunk of ice that's formed around the point of attachment between wiper blade and wiper arm and I can't get it to break loose. I go back inside and explain my predicament, and one of the clerks hands me a little mini-torch and describes the proper way to melt the ice without cracking the windshield. It sounds like they do this all the time. The torch procedure works and while I'm struggling to swap blades, a pickup does a sliding u-turn in front of Auto Zone and pulls into the parking lot. A kid who looks about fifteen gets out and walks over to me. He asks a few questions about The Turtle's suspension, then tells me that he has a '67 FJ40. He pulled the F and says he just dropped in a Chevy 350. While I'm standing there fumbling with wiper blades, with no feeling in my fingers, he wants to talk about hot rodding a 40. He's a nice enough kid, excited about his first ride, and I don't want to dampen his enthusiasm but if I'm out here much longer I'll be completely frozen. Fortunately I was trained by the master when it comes to terminating conversations so I know just what to do. In response to his questions I use my Dad's technique of long silences, grunts and one syllable answers. He finally gets the message and wanders into the store. After an hour I get the blades swapped out and while I'm at it, I take Steve's roll of tape and seal around the outside of the drivers side door, eliminating another cold draft. I'll only have one more stop and don't mind crawling through the passenger door a couple of times, if it'll help keep me warm and dry. So now it's 1400 and we're on the highway again, freezing drizzle and occasional snow flakes falling, 325 miles to Sheridan's flagship motel. As before, the only vehicles on the road are The Turtle and 18 wheelers.
Cheyenne to Sheridan is uneventful. I stop in Casper for gas and coffee. I try to stay behind semi rigs as much as possible, letting them run interference. There's a number of obvious icy patches in all the places you'd expect, overpasses and bridges, and there's also black ice that I can't see until I'm on top of it. I'm happy to let the truckers find it first. Even with the heater running full blast, at these temps it's ineffective as a defroster and the interior glass stays fogged. I dig a t-shirt out of my duffel and begin to wipe the windshield and side window glass in order to see the road. This gets tedious and before long I'm only wiping a small patch of the windshield directly in front of my face, but that's enough. By the time we reach Sheridan I've used all my shirts as windshield rags and they're all soaked but it worked. We pull into the motel parking lot just after 2100. Denver to Sheridan, 425 miles, twelve hours, and if my ass wasn't frozen it would probably be killin' me. Instead, I'm just hungry.
Me: "I have a reservation, Armstrong"
Clerk: without looking up.. "Credit card and driver's license."
Me: "Is there a nearby diner that would still be open?"
Clerk: "No"
Me: "How about in town?"
Clerk: "I wouldn't know."
Me: "You wouldn't happen to have a relative working at Motel 6 in Pueblo?"
Clerk: "No. Why?"
Me: "Oh...No reason."
If it isn't genetic, then it must be the training.
I drive two blocks and find a Subway, take my sandwich back to the room, call my wife, call my parents, then call Steve. He posts this update to the 3FE list:
Commander Armstrong Update
The Commander earned his "Intrepid" stripes today. Just got off the phone with Lee and he was calling from his day's destination: Sheridan, Wyoming. He hit the highway this morning at 9:00 am and arrived in Sheridan at 9:00 pm. Twelve hours to go 425 miles - with a two hour delay in Cheyenne, WY due to whiteout blizzard conditions.
The roll of duct tape I donated to the cause came in handy to seal off some of the sources of heavy winds inside the cab as the winds were strong quartering headwinds and snow was blowing all around. The Cruiser putted right along and the defroster allowed for a small window of vision for Lee to navigate by. After a switch to smaller, OEM-sized blades, the windshield wipers did a pretty fair job of letting the Commander see where he was going and Lee said the scenery was pretty sweet once the clouds abated somewhat as he drove further north. The weather maps indicate the worst of the wet weather should be behind him although the truck's heater will still be put to the test tomorrow. Lee mentioned that, as has occurred everyday of his journey thus far, people have approached him, asking questions about "his" Cruiser and today was no exception as a 16 year old kid at Auto Zone asked what year the beast was and claimed to have just installed a small block Chevy in his '67 40. Lee said he started to chant the OEM mantra but thought better of it, choosing to save energy for the voyage still in front of him. I will update as reports filter in. Rock on, my friend.
--Steve
to be continued...