Butte--Part 5: Johnny, The End of The Innocence
Remember when the days were long
And rolled beneath a deep blue sky
Didn't have a care in the world
With mommy and daddy standin' by
But "happily ever after" fails
And we've been poisoned by these fairy tales
...This is the end of the innocence
--Don Henley
Driving north on Main, we stop at the first intersection and wait for a group of tourists to cross. Johnny relaxes his grip on the roll cage and surveys the cab interior like a curious child. "So this is a Toyota. I see these around town. Always thought they were old Jeeps." I tell him it's a common mistake, but assure him that an FJ40 is vastly superior to any Jeep. He grunts, doesn't seem impressed, but he has questions. He points to the lower steering column where I'd strapped my old SOG survival knife. "What's that for?" I decide to lighten the mood. "Protection against highway bandits. And grizzly bears." No reaction. Maybe he didn't hear me. More likely it wasn't funny. His turn: "What's up with that little steering wheel? You steal that off some kid's go cart?" Score one for Johnny. I tell him the steering wheel is a temporary fix, that all FJ40's are works in progress. Another disinterested grunt. He studies the dash for a moment, then leans toward the center, tentatively extending his good arm toward the redneck engineered doorbell button. It looks as though he's about to press the button and assuming it still works, blasting the horn will scatter these tourists like a covey of quail flushed from cover. I blurt out "STOP! Don't touch that," and he jumps back, looking startled. Maybe I overreacted. I'll go for humor again.
Johnny: "Why not? What is it?"
Me: "You ever watch James Bond flicks? Old Bond...the real Bond? Connery."
Johnny: "Yeah, I've seen a few of 'em. Why?"
Me: "Remember Goldfinger, and Bond's Aston Martin?"
Johnny: "I've seen Goldfinger. What's an Aston Martin?"
Me: "That was his tricked out sports car. Remember the mods? Tire slashing hubs, oil slick sprayer, smoke screen blower, and...."
Johnny: "Yeah, I remember."
Me: "And a passenger seat ejector."
Johnny: "Yeah, so?"
Me: We modified this truck for the road trip, same as Bond's car. Push that button and you'll activate the ejector seat. You'll blast through the roof 30 feet into the Montana sky."
Johnny: Pauses...furrows his brow...looks at the button, looks at me, then finally, laughing..."You're $hittin' me. Right?"
Me: "Yeah. I'm $hittin' you."
The intersection clears, and I tell Johnny he can satisfy his curiousity and push the button. He taps it twice and there's a barely audible beep-beep, sounds you'd expect from the roadrunner cartoon character, but weaker. Few bystanders even bother to glance our way. Johnny laughs again. "That's some horn you've got there." At least he's laughing. Whatever it takes.
He tells me to drive north on Main, leaving uptown Butte behind. We climb Granite Mountain, crossing streets named after rocks and minerals--Granite, Quartz, and of course Copper. Johnny is quiet, at one point gesturing to the left in the direction of an older neighborhood. He says "We live over there, in my Grandfather's house." I tell him that it looks like a nice area. He nods, says "Yeah, it is, or was," but doesn't offer an explanation, and we continue up the mountain in silence.
Minutes pass and Johnny says "When I was a kid we used to call this Butte Hill. Like Boot Hill. Get it? Boot Hill....Butte Hill. Like in the western movies. We played up here, cowboys and Indians, imagined it was Dodge City. I was always Marshall Dillon. Just a silly kid thing I guess." Kid thing indeed. I never missed an episode of Gunsmoke. It always began with the marshall facing off against a bad guy, quickly dispatching him with his trusty Colt .45, then walking through Boot Hill Cemetery philosophizing. I memorized his words and rattled them off at every opportunity to anyone who'd listen, usually embarrassing my parents. Funny how these things burrow deep into your brain and surface decades later. I could probably still recite Marshall Dillon's soliloquy and not be off by more than a few words. It went something like this...
"Each time I come up here to Boot Hill, I think of all the men that I watched die. Some died a coward's death, some died standing up in good style. More than a few of these, I've had a part in--I'm Matt Dillon, U.S. Marshall. Standing here looking out over the high plains, I try to remember that Dodge is a pretty rough camp, but there's a lot of good to be found there."
Once a kid, always, so yeah Johnny, I get it. He says we'll drive all the way up Main Street to Walkerville, on the outskirts of Butte. In the late 1800's Walkerville was a mining boom town, but now only a few hundred people remain; what's left is part of the Butte historic district. Not quite a ghost town, but getting there. We reach the end of Main and Johnny tells me to turn right onto the dirt road just after Saint Lawrence Catholic Church. I turn at the little white church and less than a mile down the road there's a small parking lot, and a foot path leading to the Granite Mountain overlook.
I read about this place in a pamphlet at Gamer's Cafe and it didn't hold much interest, but Johnny insisted that I see it, and here we are. I follow him up the path and notice again that there's a little hitch in his gait. We're at 6,800 feet; the temp is hovering around freezing, and there's a slippery glaze on the path, making it treacherous even for the sure footed. I see that he has some difficulty negotiating the slight grade, but I know he's proud and this time I don't offer to help. He soldiers on without complaining and eventually we make it to the overlook. According to a sign at the entry, the Granite Mountain Memorial "is dedicated to the 168 men who lost their lives in hard rock mining's greatest disaster," the Speculator Mine fire of 1917. It's an open air plaza, a simple slab of concrete that looks like a big chess board, paved with red bricks inscribed with remembrances of those who perished. At one corner of the plaza are cement pillars topped with plaques honoring
the dead. The memorial itself isn't much to see, and of all the places in Butte he could have suggested, this seems a strange choice. Others must feel the same, because there's no one else here.
Johnny walks to the far corner of the plaza and leans against one of the cement pillars. I do the same, and begin to understand why we're here. The sight is surreal, a panoramic view of the Highland Mountains and the Continental Divide, and scattered down the mountainside there's Butte, and decaying remnants of a once booming mining industry. Parts of the vista look like battlefields, low hanging clouds of smoke hovering in the air, and it's quiet, eerily quiet. The city extends from Walkerville on down the mountain, a patchwork of old and new spilling into the flats of the valley below. From the overlook we can see a sprawl of new houses and strip shopping centers hugging the interstate highway, but even an outsider can tell that the soul of Butte remains on the hill, in it's abandoned mines and tattered city center, in an uptown marred by vacant lots interspersed with magnificent old buildings, many of them now boarded shut. Looking east, the central business district falls abruptly into the toxic Berkeley Pit, and on the west side it melds with an old neighborhood of brick houses in varying states of disrepair. Johnny tells me that mine bosses and engineers once lived in the better homes, and higher on the hill stand row upon row of modest wooden houses, miner's houses, snaking upward in bands among the hulks of abandoned mine yards.
I walk around the plaza, take in the views from every direction, snap a few pics, and make a show of checking my watch. We've been here for at least 15 minutes and I'm sure that I've seen everything there is to see, but Johnny is still gazing into the distance and hasn't moved from his pillar. I walk toward him intending to suggest that we move along, and notice that he's shaking again. I'm hot natured and rarely bothered by the cold, but wind gusts are ripping down the mountain and across the plaza, slicing through my windbreaker, and I'm beginning to feel a chill. He's a skinny little guy, not even wearing a jacket; if I'm cold, he has to be freezing.
Me: "Hey, you're shaking. Want to borrow my windbreaker? Or a jacket? I have a jacket in the truck."
Johnny: "No. I'm good. I'm not that cold. I don't get cold. My condition makes me shake. It's a nervous thing."
Me: "We should probably be going anyway."
Johnny: "I want to thank you for bringing me up here."
Me: "You're welcome, but I thought you brought me. You can come here any time."
Johnny: "No, I don't get up here much. Too far for me to walk, and I don't drive. Can't drive."
Me: "It is peaceful."
Johnny: "Yeah, and usually there's no one here. It's not easy to find, not that big of a tourist attraction."
Me: "I can see that."
Johnny: "I've been coming up here since I was eight years old. Not to the memorial; it's new. To the mountain. Used to ride my bike up here. I've climbed all over this hill, camped, hunted, drank bootleg beer. Brought my girl up here to park when I was in high school. The city lights are really something. You should see them at night."
Me: "I'll bet they are, but, ahh, I've gotta get on the road pretty soon."
That was a hint, but Johnny doesn't answer. He turns away and stares down into the valley, toward the city. I'm getting impatient and start to clear my throat, but he starts talking.
Johnny: "You ever have a time in your life when everything changed? Like a dividing line between the first part of your life and the rest of your life? One day you're one person, something happens, and the next day you're someone else?"
Me: "I don't know. Maybe. I guess I never thought about it."
Johnny: "I came up here with my girl the night before I shipped out. Parked right over there. I remember we talked all night."
Me: "Lot of memories for you here."
Johnny: "Yeah...I had a sweet '64 Chevelle. A red Malibu; we called it whorehouse red. Loved that car. Never saw it again after that night. Or my girl. Came back three years later and everything was different. My girl was gone, my car was sold, and I was messed up worse than I am now. That's my dividing line--that night up here. That's the last time I remember being a regular person. The last good time. I was eighteen."
What do you say to that? I can't think of anything. Not a damn thing.
Johnny: "You still want to know what happened to my arm?"
Me: "Look, I already apologized. It's none of my business and I'm sorry I asked."
Johnny: "The truth is, I don't know what happened. I was Army, 1st Air Cav, halfway through my tour. In the Nam, ya know. Never even got to take my R&R. We were on patrol. I guess there were four of us. They tell me I was on point. Depending on who you believe, I either got us lost, or they were sprayin' that $hit in the wrong damn place. I remember hearing a chopper, I remember screaming that I was on fire. Then nothing. I woke up in a hospital. Spent the better part of two years in and out of hospitals, part of it in a burn unit down in Texas. Army hospital in San Antonio. Good people, but they couldn't do nuthin' for me. F**kin' napalm."
Again, I don't know what to say. I wonder where he was taken first. I wonder if I could have picked this guy up in the bush and deposited him at a field hospital, or one of the Navy hospital ships off shore. Highly unlikely; that only happens in the movies and besides, there's no way to know. I don't even mention the possibility. He keeps talking.
Johnny: "I'll tell you one goddam thing. I know I didn't get us lost. They gave me a bronze, so I must have done something right. Ya know. I did my job...I did my job."
Me: "That's something you should be proud of. That they honored your service."
Jesus Christ, what a lame ass thing to say to this poor guy. If that's the best I can do, I should just shut up.
Johnny: "Bull$hit. Everybody got medals. At first they said I couldn't remember because I had a stress disorder. Later they said I had post traumatic amnesia. Hell, I could have told them that. A shrink at the VA hospital said he could help me remember. I told him I'd appreciate it if he didn't help me remember. The only thing I want to remember is what I'm remembering right here, before the dividing line. You know that song "White Rabbit? Grace Slick from back in the 70's?"
Me: "Yeah, I know it."
Johnny: "I'm not sayin' I understand it, but it kinda describes the way I feel most of the time. Like some days I'm half crazy, and other days everyone else is crazy and I'm not, and I have trouble figuring out which is which."
He gestures at the chessboard pattern of the plaza.
Johnny: "That's what this reminds me of, White Rabbit. I know the lyrics by heart, most of them. And Alice...that was my girl's name."
When the men on the chessboard
Get up and tell you where to go
And you've just had some kind of mushroom
And your mind is moving low
Go ask Alice, I think she'll know
....to be continued