Bozeman--Part Three
He's a poet, he's a picker, he's a prophet, he's a pusher
He's a pilgrim and a preacher and a problem when he's stoned
He's a walking contradiction, partly truth and partly fiction
Taking every wrong direction on his lonely way back home
--Kris Kristofferson
Jen stands, stretches again, says she hopes to see me later at the pub, winks, walks out and closes the door, leaving me sitting in the chair wondering if that encounter actually happened. After all, I am dead tired, and it's possible that second pint of Custer's Last Stout could be causing me to hallucinate. I've heard such things can happen. I decide to conduct a short investigation to determine whether I'm going mad. Chris is a good starting point. I hoist my duffel bag onto the dresser and dig out a bag of dirty clothes, two weeks worth. Chris should be able to tell me if there's a laundry on the premises, and whether Jen is a figment of my imagination. I walk back to the office through the covered passageway and he's still there, feverishly thumbing through a pile of class notes, furrowed brow, fresh mug of coffee in his hand.
Me: "Is there a laundry here?"
Chris: "Nope."
Me: "I need to wash some clothes."
Chris: "How many clothes?"
Me: "One load should do it."
Chris: "We have a washer and dryer. For towels and linens. I guess you could use them."
Me: "Thanks. I'd appreciate that."
Chris: "Be quick about it. I leave at 7. Next door to the office. Door should be unlocked"
That's what I call friendly service. Now that we're buds, I'll sneak in a stealth question, and try to establish my sanity.
Me: "Is there a girl who works here named Jen?"
Chris: "Why?"
Me: "No reason. I think I just met her."
Chris: "If you met Jen, you'd know it. Tall chick. Smokin' hot."
Me: "Sounds like the one. She told me to stop by the ale works for a pint."
Chris, with a wistful look: "That's Jen. She barely speaks to me."
Poor Chris. I guess Jen is out of his league, but at least I know she wasn't an apparition. I thank him again, fetch my dirty clothes, find the laundry, start the wash, and return to the room. It's early. I should be able to knock out the laundry chore, shower, work in a short nap, and be revitalized in time for a late supper. I shave and shower and go to retrieve my clothes. Returning to the room I see a group of people standing beside the truck, but they're on the opposite side and I can't tell who they are or what they're doing there. I dump my armload of clean clothes on the near bed and go out to The Turtle. It's Jen, leaning on the driver's side door,along with two other girls and a guy, chatting, hanging out.
Me: "What's goin' on?"
Jen: "Oh, Hello again. Is this the old Land Cruiser you're taking to Hawaii?"
Me: "Yep, that's the one."
Jen: "I saw your Texas plate. You didn't tell me it was a 40."
Me: "Most people don't know a 40 from a Kubota tractor."
Jen: "I do. There's several around Bozeman. But I haven't seen one like this."
Me: "Yeah, she's a beast. Built up a bit, for off roading."
Jen: "Take us for a ride?"
Me: "I don't think so. I really need a nap."
Jen: "Maybe later then. Sleep well. Don't forget to drop by the pub."
Me: "Sure"
Sweet dreams are made of this
Who am I to disagree?
I travel the world
And the seven seas,
Everybody's looking for something.
--Annie Lennox
I collapse onto the bed furthest from the door, the bed where Jen was lazing barely an hour earlier. The pillow still has the imprint of her head, and on either side are small impressions left by her braids. It smells good, not perfumy, kind of a fresh vanilla scent. Very nice, intoxicating. I take it in, several deep breaths, and think of Hamlet's famous line, "To sleep, perchance to dream." Within minutes I'm dreamin'.
An hour later, from within my dream or somewhere outside it, I think I hear laughing. I sit up and get my bearings, walk over and peek out the window. The Blue Sky parking lot is full of cars but I don't see any people. I do hear laughter, and remember the jacuzzi. Must be the late night action Chris mentioned earlier, but I'm too hungry to be interested. Food and a cold one sound better. It's 8:30; I check the weather channel and see that it's 35 degrees, headed for a low of 23. I'm hoofin' it so I dress for the weather, the way my mother taught me. From the heap of freshly washed clothes I pull out Ray's flannel shirt and a pair of trou, cap it off with the boots and Patagonia jacket I scored in Wyoming, and begin strolling down Main Street.
In the three short blocks between my motel and the pub, I see three 40's parked on the street, all stockers, all pocked with rust in the usual places, working trucks, one per block. Jen was right, old Cruisers are common in these parts. I walk on and in the distance it's easy to pick out Montana Ale Works. It's the largest structure in sight, an old railroad freight terminal, built in the 1930's and recently converted to a pub. Immediately inside the door is a small waiting area with chairs and a sofa, most of which are occupied. There's a smiling girl standing at a waist high counter, hostess with a list. From the entry I can see into the bar area--booths, a few tables, and a big circular bar. The place looks packed. Judging from the crowd, this must be a Bozeman hot spot. I check in with the list keeper, and learn there's an hour wait for a table, 45 minutes if I don't mind sitting at the bar. I don't see Jen and I don't have an alternate dining plan so I give my name and take a seat on the sofa. There's a stack of menus on the counter top, and I'm a beer nerd, so I pick up a beer list and start reading. According to the list, they feature
"the most extensive draft selection of regionally brewed craft beers in the Northern Rockies," almost 40 craft brews on tap. The only beer I've heard of is Moose Drool but several others sound worthy so I pull out a scrap of paper and begin jotting down possibilities for future tasting. I've been sitting there for less than five minutes when a well dressed lady in a dark business suit appears in the waiting area, looks around, walks over and takes a seat beside me. I keep reading and taking notes.
Her: "Excuse me, are you Lee? The writer?"
Me: "I beg your pardon?"
Her: "The travel writer. We were told you might be coming by this evening."
Now if I wasn't dreaming, the following conversation occurred about three hours ago:
Jen: "So you are a writer."
Me: "Well, yeah, but I prefer to keep a low profile."
Jen: "I won't blow your cover. I promise."
Great. Thanks for not blowing my cover, Jen. I ponder the situation for a minute and think, what the heck. I'm sitting here writing, and being a writer doesn't require any special credentials. So I'm not really fudging the truth, not by much. I don't see any downside to playing this out. I'll roll with it and see where it goes.
Me: "Why yes, yes I am. A writer that is. Freelance."
Her, extending her hand: "We're so pleased to have you. I'm Jane, the manager. Are you waiting for a table?"
Me: "Yes, I'm on the list."
Her: "Well there's no need for
you to wait. We'll seat you in the Grill Room. It's quiet, and private."
Me: "There's no need for that. I really don't mind waiting."
Her: "Oh but I insist. The Grill Room is lovely, and tonight we have tables available."
Me: "I'm curious. How did you recognize me?"
Her: "Oh, Jen tipped us off. She said to look for the gentleman who resembled that Seinfeld character."
Me: "What Seinfeld character?"
Her: "Peterman."
What the hell? Peterman? Elaine's boss, the buffoon. I guess it could have been worse. She could have said I resembled Kramer, or George Costanza. I can live with Peterman, as long as we're only talking appearance. We stand, and Jane leads me into the Grill Room. She wasn't lying. It's elegant, and intimate. Antique brick, massive exposed beams, western paintings decorating the walls, dim lighting, and it's completely separate from the bar area, quiet and isolated. I count six rectangular tables, and a single round table just inside the service door, all dressed with linen tablecloths and formal place settings, Only two tables are occupied. Jane seats me at the round table and says "Enjoy your meal, and if you decide to mention us in your article, we hope it's positive." I assure her that I'll do just that, while thinking "What article? What did Jen tell these people?"
I sit there for a short time thinking this has to be another of those bizarre Twilight Zone situations that I seem to bumble into with regularity, when Jen appears from behind the service door. She looks different and it takes a moment before I recognize her. The braids are gone, hair is down, and she's wearing a starched white shirt and jeans, and her LL Bean boots. She's carrying a pint of something dark and without asking, sets it on the table in front of me. A peace offering?
Me: "Peterman? Gimme a break. And what was that bit about not blowing my cover?"
Jen: "This is Hippy Highway Oatmeal Stout, from Big Sky. It's new. I think you'll like it."
Me: "Don't change the subject. Come on...Peterman? Seriously?"
Jen: "Just helping you out. He was the only gray haired person I could think of, and Jane remembered him."
Me: "Thanks a lot."
Jen: "Hey, it got you a table. Nobody sits in here but celebrities and rich locals. Robert Redford ate in here. At this very table."
Me: "I'm honored."
Jen: "Try the stout. I ordered something for you, something that's great with stout."
Me: "I can't wait. What is it?"
Jen: "You should trust me by now. Our house specialty--Bison Potstickers, with Mango sauce. You'll love 'em."
Jen leaves and another girl comes with a platter of potstickers. I recognize her as one of the two standing by The Turtle at the Blue Sky. If I heard her name earlier, I don't remember it, but her name tag says Anne, so I act like I do remember and mumble "Thanks Anne." I chomp down on a juicy potsticker. It's superb, and I must have been starving because they all disappear in short order, washed down by the fine Hippy Highway stout. On cue Jen returns, with a Moose Drool.
Jen: "Thought you might be running dry."
Me: "No, I'm good. The potstickers were great."
Jen: "Told ya. What's next?
Me: "Meaning what?"
Jen: "Meaning pints for the
famous writer are on the house tonight, so what's your pleasure?"
Me: "I never claimed to be famous, but since you asked...I'm partial to West Coast IPA's"
Jen: "Got it. You decide on food. I'll decide on refreshments."
I study the menu and everything looks good, but I think this would be a good time to eat healthy. Anne comes back and I order a spinach salad with Applewood bacon and roasted pecans. Today's chef's special is grilled mountain trout, which they tell me is a fresh local catch, so I go for the special. While I'm frantically scribbling all this down for my upcoming article, Jen brings a pint of Bent Nail IPA, She says it's a good session IPA, light and citrusy; she says it goes with the salad. My trout arrives on a bed of wild rice, along with steamed asparagus, and there's fresh baked bread. My glass seems to be empty, and Jen brings a pint of Hop Zone IPA, a local brew from Bozeman Brewing. It's a bigger beer, and by this time I'm feelin' pretty good. I take my time eating, and it seems I'm never alone for more than a few minutes. Jane comes by and asks if I'm enjoying the meal, Jen pops in periodically, and Anne is attentive, occasionally sitting at my table. Nobody seems rushed around here. I finally clean my plate and for the first time I notice there's no one left in the Grill Room but me. I don't even remember anyone leaving.
I look at my watch and if I'm reading it correctly, it's just past midnight. I've been here almost three hours. Jen shows up with two more pints--Hop Juice Imperial IPA, one for each of us. I'll say this; the girl knows her beers. This one is magnificent, and huge. I shift positions in the chair and notice that I have almost no feeling in my legs. I begin thinking about whether I'm capable of walking back to my motel. This could present a problem. Maybe they'll let me sleep on the floor, or on the sofa in the foyer, being that I'm such a big celebrity. In any case, I'm gonna need some help. Jen explains that she's taken off an hour early, and now she's here to hang out. Anne, and the third girl from the Blue Sky parking lot join us in the Grill Room. Ahh..so they all work here. Their shifts have ended and we have the room to ourselves, the four of us sitting around the table, shootin' the breeze. Jen seems mature but the other two...I feel like I'm being interviewed by a bunch of pubescent reporters for a junior high newspaper.
Them: "How long have you been writing?"
Me: "Since I was 5"
Them: "Pardon?"
Me: "Never mind."
Them: "Did you study writing?"
Me: "No, I just wing it."
Them: "What did you do before?"
Me: "I flew. Navy."
Them: "Wow, you mean jets, like Top Gun?"
Me: "No, just old slow helicopters."
Them: "Where?"
Me: "All over. Texas, California, Viet Nam."
Them: "In the war? You ever get shot?"
Me: "Yes."
Them: "Did it hurt?"
What a stupidass question. Of course it hurt. How do you think it would it feel to have a sharp stick jammed in your eye? But they are young, and I guess I asked for it. I'll be gentle.
Me: "Damn right it did. It still hurts."
Them: "Wow. Where?"
Me: "Let's change the subject."
Them: "Sorry, we didn't mean to get personal. So what do you write about?"
Me: "Non-fiction. Things I've done, places I've been. people I've met. That sort of thing."
Them: "So you're an adventure writer, like that guy who wrote Into the Wild?"
Me: "You mean Jon Krakauer. Excellent book, but it wasn't about his own experiences."
Them: "Tell us what you're writing now."
Uh oh...Here we go. Before I know it we're talking about my upcoming book. Yeah, I know; first it was only an article, but that was a couple of hours ago and thanks to the IPA, now it's a book. And why not? Aim high, right?
Jen may or may not have brought out more pints of Hop Juice. I'm not sure, because I can't read my own notes from later in the evening, but she probably did. At one point, in a sudden moment of clarity, I remember that I haven't paid. I tell Anne that I need to close my dinner tab. She says that I must have already paid and I tell her that I'm sure I didn't. I don't even recall seeing a bill. She says "Oh, then I must have accidentally lost your bill," and they all laugh. I don't get the joke, and finally Jen says that Jane instructed them to comp my meal. It's clearly a bribe and I'm deeply offended. They think I can be bribed? Um, well, it's a harsh truth, but evidently I can. I'd bet even Robert Redford wasn't treated this well. I decide on the spot that the Blue Sky Motel isn't the friendliest place in town. It's Montana Ale Works. I'll have to put that in my article. And my book. Yes I will.
To be continued....
