Saved Another One! - 1967 FJ40

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Ahhhh.......new emblems......so sweet! AND you can see that "ONE" pesky dent there! Also done but not pictured, a new quarter window rubber, which was surprisingly easy to replace. The glass guy wants about $300 to replace the front, rear, and side rubbers, using my rubbers, so just labor. Good deal or do it myself?
Winston - Driver Rear - Emblems - 02-16-09.webp
 
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More pics man! What are you using to strip and prep?
Details!!!

To stwip/prep, I am using various products/tools. I use paint stwipper in spray cans, which I find to be WAY more effective and efficient than the brush on style. I then use a flat blade scwaper on the flat areas and smaller scwapers and a hand-held wire brush for the cracks, etc. After scwaping, I use a random-orbit sander with a 120 grit paper. When I dont feel like having the gunky mess, I also use an AMAZING rotary stwipping tool. It fits on my Makita and TEARS through paint and rust without harming the metal surface underneath. It looks like a wiry black disk that is a conglomeration of glue and mesh and abrasives. I think 3M invented it. After stripping, I wash with a non-petroleum degreaser such as Purple Power, rinse with water, and dry with a towel. I then spray on the SUPER primer, which is a NAPA product and is called "Zincrom Primer". It has high levels of Zinc, which really prevents rust and oxidation. It has such a nice flat finish and can be re-applied with no overspray to be seen. If I ever want to go to a nice glossy or semi-gloss final finish, it will be ready, but in the meantime, I KNOW that there is no BONDO or other filler, and know that it is protected from the elements and looks good.

I will post a pic of the products all together after I take the picture tonight. I have refinished probably 30 vehicles, and this method is by far my favorite, most effective, and easy too. It allows for "a little at a time", which is all most of us can do. Of course, I would rather take it all apart and have it blasted and powdercoated, but that is not real practical for me.

Had to use odd spellings for some of the words above, because they were blurbed out for some reason, namely for "S T R I P" and "S C R A P E". HAHA!
 
3m wheel

Yeah I use the 3m wheels too---havent found anything that works as well and it leaves a nice surface not too gouged up

for cleaning I use TSP---trisodium Phosphate available at ACE and OSPHO when I am using POR-15---they are equivalent to metal prep and aqua clean
151230.webp
 
Here are some of the products that I mentioned. The carb dip is great to strip all paint off of little parts with nooks and crannies such as hinges, hold downs, etc. The 3M disc you have pictured there works good, but when I found the style that is for the angle grinder, it was a night and day difference. You can remove the paint from an entire side of a vehicle in several hours, minus cracks and crevices. It lasts WAY longer too and doesnt fall apart as easy. Also, the "Chassis Black" from NAPA is BY FAR the best overall black paint I have EVER used. It goes on thick, doesnt run, and dries VERY hard. SWEET stuff! (Notice the original jack in the picture there) hehe

Below is also a picture of my refurbished reflector. As these are not available new anymore, I cleaned and painted the old housing and used a NAPA reflector lens and backing plate that fit perfectly. The lens is a little "different", but not bad. It will work perfectly until I find some NOS originals.........MARK??????;)

Also below is the new quarter window rubber. It went in perfectly!! I will try to do the rest myself as well.
Strip N Paint Products.webp
Winston - New Quarter Window Rubber - 02-18-09.webp
Winston - Reflector - 02-18-09.webp
 
I got bored, and there were some VERY small leaks from the valve cover, so I took it off, removed the original gasket and rubber/metal grommets in the top, cleaned and removed the paint, painted it, put on a new gasket and rubber/metal grommets in the top of it, cleaned the mounting surface on the head, and installed. It hasn't leaked at all in a day of some highway driving, so I am probably good.

I intend to put on the "new" replacement "F135" decal soon. Also, i was thinking of either painting the studs and installing stainless nuts because it looks ugly as is, or trimming the studs with a grinder and replacing with stainless acorn nuts. I am inclined to do the prior, as acorns are a little too far from original and the thought of cutting the studs just makes me queasy. ANY input on that one?

I plan to eventually "clean up" and paint everything under the hood a little at a time. The air cleaner assembly is next in line.

Also, the inner workings under the valve cover looked great! VERY clean, no gumming/gunk, and no rust/evidence of water/excessive wear, etc.
Winston - Valve Cover - 02-22-09.webp
 
looking good ...i like what you have done so far ....very nice :)

Thanks buddy! As I always say, "It's hard to go wrong when you are putting it back to stock."

My biggest problem appears to be with the speedometer. The odometer works just fine, but the speedo is stuck. I pulled it apart to clean, etc. and it appears as if there is a bushing that is bad on the speedometer needle pivot rod, if that makes any sense. Thus, it kinda flops a little in there. Thus, there is no wonder why is doesn't work. My '66 has the exact same problem, which tells me that maybe this was a common problem. Does anyone out there have an extra good speedo for a 66/67 FJ40, or maybe has, or has a line on, a new replacement or an NOS speedo????? I HATE to have to go with a custom aftermarket guage panel like I see some people do. I think they are cool, just not for a "restoration". :eek:
 
Looking very nice!

Where did you get the window rubbers at? I have been looking and only finding univeral from Jc Whitney.

Spector. 1-818-882-1238. They have most everything that you can possibly get for an FJ40. Ask for Mark and tell him that CJ sent ya!

The rubber for the quarter windows, which is the only rubber that I have installed thus far, came as a "one-piece" joined-at-the-ends rubber that was too big for the early quarter windows. Since the original rubbers were not "joined", I cut about 4 inches out of the length and installed it. It worked great. Good luck.
 

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