See Xterra kit above. The only welding is to the axle that you source yourself. Anything is possible. Doesn't mean it would be best or good.
Sas? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter RockJock82
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See Xterra kit above. The only welding is to the axle that you source yourself. Anything is possible. Doesn't mean it would be best or good.
You're saying the only thing you need to do is weld a few tabs? And then you bolt it right up? Nothing needed to be done to the frame? Just want to make sure we're talking about the same vehicle, this is the 100 Series Land Cruiser..... Correct? And, a "bolt on" SAS kit could be made where the ONLY thing you do is weld to the self sourced axle?
The 100 and Xterra is almost identical. Both are torsion bars and IFS. I wouldn't be surprised if you could do the same with the 100. It's obviously a different vehicle, but both have the same front end concept. Both chassis have plenty of mounting locations for the links, considering all torsion bar IFS share similar traits.
I think that type of "conversion" is doable for us, just not sure how we would deal with having 6-lug front and 5 lug rear.
I'm saying they exist for other models. So why is it impossible to imagine one could be made for the 100.
I think when we read SAS kit, people are assuming that means its the "kit" that's the most difficult part of the equation. Like "if we just had the parts, this would be so easy"
You can get 80% of the parts from Christo, Cruiser Outfitters and CDan.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Not. I suggest you slide on the ice in Atlanta until you are under the front end of the truck and then look up
The front frame / motor mounts / steering rack cradle is one intricate and big piece that have to be removed. There is a lot of surgery needed to make that work. That is why we pull the motor when we do this.
Murf has hit the nail on the head with his synopsis of what would happen with a kit. Sometimes it is better not go go down the rabbit hole, even if it looks like there is gold down there.
The ruffstuff kits are about as close to a "kit" as you'll get. Forget sticking with the weaker toyota diffs and use the widely availble GM dana 60/14 bolt from a 80s CUCV. The axles sets sell for $1,200, come stock with 4.56 gears, detroit locker rear, and are cheap and easy to rebuild before swapping in. Shave the bottom of the 14 bolt, spend a couple hundred on new bearings, seals, front lunchbox locker, and rear disc swap, front jeep coils, mount a saginaw box on the frame, custom lines from pump to the box, etc. All that stuff is fairly basic tech on pirate4x4 and other sites, but I think everyone here is stuck on staying 100%, but the main issue is there isn't really a toyota solution to the SAS. That said, I keep an old disposable heep around to beat on and crawl with.
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/3LINK-COILB.html
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fireball
SILVER Star
Christo - is there a writeup or more info somewhere where you detail your impression of the SAS? How much driveability do you give up? How much more articulation did you gain?
I've got a 76 Bronco with a solid front axle and specifically bought the 100 because it didn't have one So I'm just asking for curiosity sake.
I've got a 76 Bronco with a solid front axle and specifically bought the 100 because it didn't have one
So I'm just asking for curiosity sake.Not. I suggest you slide on the ice in Atlanta until you are under the front end of the truck and then look up
Well, I stand corrected
That was kind of my point. It's very possible if you wanted to make a unique rock crawler. Most people on here who'd be interested in a SAS would want it for Overlanding purposes where reliability trumps rock crawling performance.
So if someone wanted to make a kit, it would have to meet half way. Not 100% Toyota parts, no compromises Slee style. And not 100% Pirate4x4 garage hack job.
But simple things like finding a common Dana axle that fits the track width and diff placement, bolt on shock towers, etc would go a long way to making it affordable without giving up too much reliability.
This thread seems to have a way of bringing out the worst in people.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Not really. It is still a large truck with 35" tires. It drives about the same as a 80 on a 6" lift with 35's.
How much driveability do you give up?
Compared to a IFS 100, it is quite a different truck. You loose some driveability, but make up in robustness and strength in the front end. These trucks are build for people that have a specific need.
Never measured since that is not normally the diving force behind the changes we make, however this pic might help
I was out at Slee's tonight and looked at this truck. It looks enormous. My truck sits pretty big with the lift, 35's and body lift, but this thing just appears bigger in every way.
I can't see this as a rock crawler at all.
Not trying to bring out the worst in me or anyone else, I just don't see the cost/benefit aspect as being worth it for this " mod". That's not to say that it's not for someone else. I still maintain that you will hurt the overall ride and unless you spend the $$ to do it right, you're not creating a stronger set up. You're just building a humongous solid axle vehicle that may or may not take you places that your current set up wont. It's a rare sight to see though, and it looks awesome.
I can't see this as a rock crawler at all.
Not trying to bring out the worst in me or anyone else, I just don't see the cost/benefit aspect as being worth it for this " mod". That's not to say that it's not for someone else. I still maintain that you will hurt the overall ride and unless you spend the $$ to do it right, you're not creating a stronger set up. You're just building a humongous solid axle vehicle that may or may not take you places that your current set up wont. It's a rare sight to see though, and it looks awesome.
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
- Thread starter
- #113
that's funny because when I stand next to them they don't look very big at all.. But I'm 6"3 lol. Of course you sacrifice ride quality eliminating the ifs. You have never seen anyone say that's it I'm taking this ifs out to do a sas for ride comfort. I think having rear ac, more leg and little more storage room is worth it in my opinion. Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD
murf
Lifer
These two things alone are worth it for tall guys living in hot climates with kids in the back.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
Hey, it is not that big
below is a pic of it next to a 100 with 35's and the IFS pushed as far as it will go in terms of height. As mentioned earlier, I think there is a lot of area between expedition and rock crawling that people use the trucks for.
This truck will go a lot of places I would not stick a 100 series into with IFS and the small diff. It is a lot stronger in the front than the IFS setup. That said for most people a build 100 is probably ok for what they do.
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Christo,
How much wider is the turning radius compared to lifted IFS 100?
How much wider is the turning radius compared to lifted IFS 100?
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
I would have to measure it.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
The one at our place.
