SAS SAS #9 Official Page 08/04/25- 08/08/25 (7 Viewers)

SAS 9 Color Choices

  • • Sky Blue

    Votes: 10 9.5%
  • • Spring Green

    Votes: 37 35.2%
  • • Capri Blue

    Votes: 16 15.2%
  • • Mustard / Yellow

    Votes: 42 40.0%

  • Total voters
    105
  • Poll closed .

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Great info. I've mostly planned on doing things that way, with one exception: I'm hesitant to prime the oil pump before stabbing the dizzy so I'm not running the cam & lifters together. I feel like I really don't want those rubbing against each other unless I'm doing the run in process 2500rpm @ 20mins. I did take a bad dizzy and extract the shaft in order to have a priming tool, but I don't think I'm going to use it. There's assembly lube everywhere in this thing.

The rest are all good reminders though. It's the little things like filling the float bowl, checking the coil, and verifying the dizzy is installed correctly that could trip a person up. I'll be running Amsoil 30wt break in oil for the cam run-in, dumping it, then going to the Driven break in oil for the first 100 miles. I'll dump that and go to my usual Rotella T4 15w40 until 500 miles, and I'll change the oil again at that point.

After the cam run-in you mention going on a half hour drive doing pulls and big decels, obviously for seating the rings. I've seen that mentioned in some things I've read. The other thing I've seen - and what my machine shop told me - is drive it like a granny going to church on Sunday for 500-700 miles. no strong pulls, no big decels, no highway, no long idling, no holding one rpm for a long time. Just city driving: variable rpms, running through different speeds and gears, no gunning the throttle. Just moseying along. Haven't decided which way to go on that yet.
No issues skipping the oil priming if you are confident you will have oil pressure.
Check out the stuff from Lake Speed Jr, he's a tribologist (oil/friction scientist) that works for Total Seal Piston Rings. Below are a couple of video's worth watching. Loading the motor is going to be the best way to seat your rings into the cylinder wall.
start watching around 41 minutes - lots of great info. Minute 54 - "babying them is the worst thing you can do for them"
 
@CruiserTrash I'd help if I was closer! You have a solid plan, don't worry about it. You're meticulous and methodical in your work, you'll be fine. Fire that puppy up and let 'er eat.

You can go down a deep rabbit hole with procedures and sequences and oil types... I'm a fan of just ripping it and doing several filter/oil changes in increasing intervals after rebuild or major engine work.
 
^^ This. When I started my engine the first time, I pulled the coil wire and cranked it over until I saw oil pressure on the dash gauge which was not even 5sec. Then hooked up the coil, let it start and went for a spin once the timing was set.

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Not to start a fight, but I usually run Rotella T4 15w40 in my 2F. Supposedly it has the right zinc/zddp content. But I've also heard they've severely decreased the zinc content in recent years. Shell's website is cagey about the exact amount so we can't go off that. What's a better daily oil for an F-family motor then? Now answer the question with a reasonably priced oil that you can grab from any auto parts store ... because I know the answer to the first question was some pricey Brad Penn or Redline stuff!
I use lucus break in oil for the 1st 50 miles heavy with zinc to get those bearings nice and coated . Then change . Then do a 500 mile oil change . I always liked the castrol high zinc race oil in my f engines. Wasn't that much but usually had to special order it by the case..
 
Rubicon scares me.

It should. If you care at all about the appearance of your sheet metal or, have any sort of mechanical sympathy in your blood... you would absolutely NEVER put any vehicle you genuinely cared about through that experience.

It's a screaming bitch. I will never expose my 80 to that abuse. My wife wanted to run that trail so I built her a sacrificial 80 to do it. That truck has been there 3 times, with me in the passenger seat and a pile of tools and parts in the back.
 
It should. If you care at all about the appearance of your sheet metal or, have any sort of mechanical sympathy in your blood... you would absolutely NEVER put any vehicle you cared about through that experience.

It's a screaming bitch. I will never expose my 80 to that abuse. My wife wanted to run that trail so I built her a sacrificial 80 to do it. That truck has been there 3 times, with me in the passenger seat and a pile of tools and parts in the back.
With all do respect. You don't give the 80 enough credit !
 
I have a new term. 🤣


Since my 40 is done(ish), I want to build a trail vehicle that I don't care about. Or at least accept that it will get ran through with little regard.
This is what I tell everyone who says this wanting to explore more extreme off roading . Sadly very few take this advise and it shows. Buy a 5 k 4 runner /mini build it up for some 37s. Then drive it over everything you can find and beat it like it owes you money. If your like me it will last a season, most normal folk get a few years out of them . By the time you've killed the 4 runner , got tired of fixing it or just outgrown it . You will know exactly How you want to build your land cruiser what you need what you want etc. Plus your driving skills will be honed . 37s on mini axles will teach you skinny pedal control real fast. You will find your self not beating on the land cruiser as bad. Reason #472 why I quit drinking.

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To be clear, I fully care about my 80 and considering for the last 10 years it has been used to conquer the hardest trails in the west I would say it’s in great shape.
You don’t have to turn a trail rig into a Raisin.
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You will know exactly How you want to build your land cruiser

What i have in mind is a stretched Aqualu FJ45 cab, on a Roadster Shop chassis, with a flatbed.

Not sure on powertrain. Gearing is more important than HP for what I want it to do.

Basically Toyota look, without dicking up classic car parts.
 
What i have in mind is a stretched Aqualu FJ45 cab, on a Roadster Shop chassis, with a flatbed.

Not sure on powertrain. Gearing is more important than HP for what I want it to do.

Basically Toyota look, without dicking up classic car parts.
I have 4 pieces from the three roofs I cut up (yea so much for not dicking up classic car parts I know) to make my 132”WB roof and they hadn’t even hit the ground yet and I’m thinking about what the next build could look like to use those. But stretched cab with a bed is at the top of the list.

Oh crap, 30 1/2 days till I leave for SAS!! Gotta go!
 
I have a new term. 🤣


Since my 40 is done(ish), I want to build a trail vehicle that I don't care about. Or at least accept that it will get ran through with little regard.

Mines pretty sacrificial at this point.
 
What i have in mind is a stretched Aqualu FJ45 cab, on a Roadster Shop chassis, with a flatbed.

Not sure on powertrain. Gearing is more important than HP for what I want it to do.

Basically Toyota look, without dicking up classic car parts.
You better get to it. You have 30 days!
 

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