Ted, I'm Kinda digging the rear tube. If you mount it up, you could load lots
of gear in there , a rooftop tent and some fuel = ALASKA Trek 2016!!!!
Builds SAS 89 Mini--Triple cased Mashed Potato
- Thread starter TeddyBoy
- Start date
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TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #522
I'd forgotten how frickin' painful building cages is. This 3.5 solid days work over the course of 2 weekends and still have at least 1+ more to go.
Plan is to build a bed from the frame rails up using 12 or 14 gauge sheet metal then plate the 2 outer sections above the rear tires for mounting my 2 large ammo cans.
might as well start my To Do list to get ready for the STLCA new Years ride.
Plan is to build a bed from the frame rails up using 12 or 14 gauge sheet metal then plate the 2 outer sections above the rear tires for mounting my 2 large ammo cans.
might as well start my To Do list to get ready for the STLCA new Years ride.
- exo above cab
- fender tubes
complete X behind cabSheet metal bed
- install passenger seat
- new master break cylinder and bleed
- new battery
swap spare tire to beadlock wheel- spare tire carrier
- mount tool boxes
- mount hi-lift
- mount C02 tank
- paint hood
- paint cage
- purchase & install tail/brake lights
- rewire and reinstall backup lights
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Any better pictures of how you ran the braces from your front bumper to your slider? Have you notched the fender yet? I'm assuming it runs on the inside of the fender.
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #524
Despite hours of looking other exo-cages and my lack of imagination and patience I've never really settled on an exact design. Instead, I've taken the approach of "design it on the fly" in hopes of it coming out "cool."
For the cab at least, one primary goal has been to keep it tight to the body by following the lines as closely as possible but this is proving to be very difficult given the subtle curves of 3rd gen trucks especially across the roof line and down the A-pillar. The short version is that I may have to compromise some of my aesthetic desires in favor of "gettin' the damned thing done."
I kinda envy the 40 and even the 1st and 2nd gen mini-truck guys in that the lines are much straighter and perhaps "easier" to follow. For example, 3rd gen doors go all the way to the top of the roof line and have a subtle arch whereas 1st and 2nd gen doors are straight at the top and fall below the roof line. This makes for much easier bends.
Oh well, I'm being a pu**y I know but Thanksgiving will give me too much time to tinker with it and anything can happen during the upcoming week.
That said, as of right now there's nuthin' revolutionary up front, going behind the fender and notching it directly above the running lights as you've seen a hundred times before. I'll have pics as it comes together but really only the driver's side is mocked up and not yet welded in.
For the cab at least, one primary goal has been to keep it tight to the body by following the lines as closely as possible but this is proving to be very difficult given the subtle curves of 3rd gen trucks especially across the roof line and down the A-pillar. The short version is that I may have to compromise some of my aesthetic desires in favor of "gettin' the damned thing done."
I kinda envy the 40 and even the 1st and 2nd gen mini-truck guys in that the lines are much straighter and perhaps "easier" to follow. For example, 3rd gen doors go all the way to the top of the roof line and have a subtle arch whereas 1st and 2nd gen doors are straight at the top and fall below the roof line. This makes for much easier bends.
Oh well, I'm being a pu**y I know but Thanksgiving will give me too much time to tinker with it and anything can happen during the upcoming week.
That said, as of right now there's nuthin' revolutionary up front, going behind the fender and notching it directly above the running lights as you've seen a hundred times before. I'll have pics as it comes together but really only the driver's side is mocked up and not yet welded in.
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I'm impressed that you made it thru that cut with A single 4.5" wheel! Looks like you may have that thing plated out by the end of the holiday weekend.
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #528
Took 2 wheels for that cut, sheet metal tends to eat them pretty quickly. Been through at least 8 wheels in the last 4-5 hrs of fab work.
Up early this morning to take care of a few work things and then back at the sheet metal around 9:30. Just wrapped that up a couple mins ago, I work fast when I'm not drinking beers and shootin' the shiiite with the buds. I still have a few things to do before final welding but for the most part sheet metal cutting is done. Then to figure out where tail lights will go but that's not on the top of my list right now.
Off to HD I go for another spool of weld wire and gawd knows how many cans of paint before everything closes and I'm outta supplies tomorrow.
Up early this morning to take care of a few work things and then back at the sheet metal around 9:30. Just wrapped that up a couple mins ago, I work fast when I'm not drinking beers and shootin' the shiiite with the buds. I still have a few things to do before final welding but for the most part sheet metal cutting is done. Then to figure out where tail lights will go but that's not on the top of my list right now.
Off to HD I go for another spool of weld wire and gawd knows how many cans of paint before everything closes and I'm outta supplies tomorrow.
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #529
Thoughts?
Only real requirement is that I be able to mount it feet forward. I assume i can do this on both.
X2O-10K Waterproof Wireless Winch Gen2 - $399
OR
XRC-9.5K Waterproof Winch Gen2 - $299
Only real requirement is that I be able to mount it feet forward. I assume i can do this on both.
X2O-10K Waterproof Wireless Winch Gen2 - $399
- Waterproofing: IP68 Rating
- Rated Line Pull: 10,000Lbs (4,545kgs) Single Line
- Motor: 6.6hp Series Wound
- Control: Remote Switch, 12’ (3.7m) lead
- Gear Train: 3-Stage Planetary
- Gear Ratio: 218:1
- Clutch: Sliding Ring Gear
- Brake: Automatic Out-Of-Drum
- 99 lbs.
OR
XRC-9.5K Waterproof Winch Gen2 - $299
- Waterproofing: IP67 Rating
- Fairlead: 4-Way Roller
- Rated Line Pull: 9,500Lbs (4,309kgs) single-line
- Remote Control: Included
- Motor: 6.6hp Series Wound
- Recommended Battery: 650CCA Minimum for Winching
- Control: Remote Switch, 12’ (3.7m) lead
- 78 Lbs.
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #530
need to take a break, back is killin' me. Got the bed about done in the last couple of days, just needs a splash more of paint. Kinda on the fence about the black/white scheme, could use a little color.
Instead of hooks in the corners for tie downs I built a rail, 2 pieces of 1/2" round stock.
And got to drinkin' too many
s last night and ordered some Rock Lights, I dunno why. 
Aluminum High Power 6W 6000K Xenon White Slim LED Running Light
Instead of hooks in the corners for tie downs I built a rail, 2 pieces of 1/2" round stock.
And got to drinkin' too many
s last night and ordered some Rock Lights, I dunno why. Aluminum High Power 6W 6000K Xenon White Slim LED Running Light
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Aww s***, you got em!
I wish you'd consulted me before you started with the sheet metal Ted. I want to cut all mine out and redo it with underbed storage and some sort of slide outs behind the cab. You had it all open, and still just did a flat bottom and flat sides. Tons easier, yes. But sooo much wasted space; space that could've been utilized to keep your CoG lower, tools & parts cleaner, and making individual items more accessible. Hell, since you're doing a new winch, that too can go underneath in the back to save space, protect the winch, and allow to pull front or rear with one winch. (Did you ever see my setup on ol' Rusty Red?)
As for the winch...
The first gets my vote in most categories. Looks cooler, more waterproof, has wireless.
However, the solenoid pack is not as easily moveable for remote mounting if desired and the whole thing weighs a lot more (probably a good thing for long term durability though). I'd say do the comp version with syn line and a Hawse unless you're going to consider mounting in the back like I mentioned above. In that case, do the regular steel cable.
As for the winch...
The first gets my vote in most categories. Looks cooler, more waterproof, has wireless.
However, the solenoid pack is not as easily moveable for remote mounting if desired and the whole thing weighs a lot more (probably a good thing for long term durability though). I'd say do the comp version with syn line and a Hawse unless you're going to consider mounting in the back like I mentioned above. In that case, do the regular steel cable.
Oh yeah, and don't worry about getting the cage extremely close. It does look better, but over time your cab will bounce into it and get dented up. It's also minorly annoying trying to get a strap fed through some spots for recovery efforts on occasion.
Yet another thing I just realized:
While I love your full-length tie down bar, do you have any provisions for tying down to the bottom? Think about low stuff like driveshafts or axle shafts; you can't strap stuff like that to a spot as high as that side rail (at least not very easily). Need at least a few eyes down there to cinch stuff straight down. Maybe find a way to make "pop-up" loops like a lot of truck beds have these days.
Yet another thing I just realized:
While I love your full-length tie down bar, do you have any provisions for tying down to the bottom? Think about low stuff like driveshafts or axle shafts; you can't strap stuff like that to a spot as high as that side rail (at least not very easily). Need at least a few eyes down there to cinch stuff straight down. Maybe find a way to make "pop-up" loops like a lot of truck beds have these days.
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TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #536
Keep in mind this is just the base for the next series of mods. As you already know storage is a constant problem with mini trucks, I still have a couple trick up my sleeves but just not enough time to do them all within the next few weeks.
Right now I plan to mount my 2 large ammo cans, one holds my 2 tool bags and the other contains all my recovery gear, a grinder an inverter and several other items. After that I'll build another storage compartment under the bed similar to the old one only much larger and deeper for fluids and other misc. crap.
Tie down(s) in the bottom are on the list, just haven't gotten to it yet and may not for a few weeks. More than likely it will consist of simply cutting a 2" hole in teh bottom shet metal and then weld a small piece round stock across the hole from underneath to create a simple hook point. It'll be clean, simple, keeps the bed flat and wont make any rattling noises on the trail.
I'm also hoping there's enough of the old rubber bed mat leftover to cut to size for this bed.
I was also leaning toward the X20 winch, a little faster but also heavier.
Right now I plan to mount my 2 large ammo cans, one holds my 2 tool bags and the other contains all my recovery gear, a grinder an inverter and several other items. After that I'll build another storage compartment under the bed similar to the old one only much larger and deeper for fluids and other misc. crap.
Tie down(s) in the bottom are on the list, just haven't gotten to it yet and may not for a few weeks. More than likely it will consist of simply cutting a 2" hole in teh bottom shet metal and then weld a small piece round stock across the hole from underneath to create a simple hook point. It'll be clean, simple, keeps the bed flat and wont make any rattling noises on the trail.
I'm also hoping there's enough of the old rubber bed mat leftover to cut to size for this bed.
I was also leaning toward the X20 winch, a little faster but also heavier.
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She is a Cove Killer now! 39's, LED, snorkel, sealed cab... Bring on the winter wheeling!
TeddyBoy
Knighted by the King of MUD himself
- Thread starter
- #540
I had to go back to work this week just so I could get a break from the truck. However, when i work from home it gives me about an hour+ to get a few things done before it gets dark.
I finally got back to the exo this evening. This is more for Josh than anything.
As originally stated I wanted to keep it tight to the body so I used a #2 pencil to set the final spacing. This meant I had to get into the framework of the chassis a little so made quick work of that with a cutoff wheel. Kinda hard to tell I guess.
After tacking that in place and lookin' it over a bit I decided to burn it in. I wanted to retain the strength I'd lost but cutting into chassis so I welded it back into the down tube.
So after a lot of cut and fit I got the fender to fit over.
And how it will look when done.
I finally got back to the exo this evening. This is more for Josh than anything.
As originally stated I wanted to keep it tight to the body so I used a #2 pencil to set the final spacing. This meant I had to get into the framework of the chassis a little so made quick work of that with a cutoff wheel. Kinda hard to tell I guess.
After tacking that in place and lookin' it over a bit I decided to burn it in. I wanted to retain the strength I'd lost but cutting into chassis so I welded it back into the down tube.
So after a lot of cut and fit I got the fender to fit over.
And how it will look when done.