Sanity check - 2016 Pearl White / Brown 170k (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Feb 17, 2019
Threads
3
Messages
12
Location
Denver
Any concerns with a super high mileage 2016 LC - lots of Toyota dealer maintenance records and decent looking undercarriage. What do you guys think for low 40s for 170k miles? Clean interior FWIW.

Send it?

IMG_2834.jpeg


IMG_2836.jpeg


IMG_2837.jpeg


IMG_2850.jpeg


IMG_2852.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Mine looks about the same and it has been a tennessee/texas truck with a bunch of ski trips.. just verify the condition of the KDSS valve.

As for pricing, I haven't been looking at all to have any context.

That mileage translates to 21-24k/yr.. most likely big majority freeway driving.
 
Is 170k really considered "super high mileage" though? I've been looking for the last 3 weeks and quite frankly it seems there are not a lot of 2016s left out there under 100k miles now that they're 8 years old, which I would consider low mileage. I'm in somewhat of the same jam right now, as I want a 2016-2017 under 100k miles but I also dont want to spend $55-60k.

That looks really good for 170k miles though, either way.
 
Mine looks about the same and it has been a tennessee/texas truck with a bunch of ski trips.. just verify the condition of the KDSS valve.

As for pricing, I haven't been looking at all to have any context.

That mileage translates to 21-24k/yr.. most likely big majority freeway driving.
Thanks for the comparison - ill
Make sure to look at the KDSS valve
 
Is 170k really considered "super high mileage" though? I've been looking for the last 3 weeks and quite frankly it seems there are not a lot of 2016s left out there under 100k miles now that they're 8 years old, which I would consider low mileage. I'm in somewhat of the same jam right now, as I want a 2016-2017 under 100k miles but I also dont want to spend $55-60k.

That looks really good for 170k miles though, either way.
Yeah I guess that’s true - I thought it looked pretty decent. I’ll let ya’ll know how it turns out. With a clean interior and regular maintenance I didn’t think there was too much to worry about on 170k vs a 100k example.
 
Yeah I guess that’s true - I thought it looked pretty decent. I’ll let ya’ll know how it turns out. With a clean interior and regular maintenance I didn’t think there was too much to worry about on 170k vs a 100k example.
Yes, interested to know what you do. If you end up pulling the trigger maybe it could sway me to start re-considering trucks with that mileage and save myself $10k. I bought my 100 with 250k miles and it never skipped a beat (until it hit a tree 3 weeks ago), and even then it was still a running/driving truck.
 
With a clean interior and regular maintenance I didn’t think there was too much to worry about on 170k vs a 100k example.

If there is a perfect vehicle to think that way it's a landcruiser.. mine is still drum-tight with 200k on it.

It's just that to so many other people, who make up "the used car market", 170k is double what they think of as high mileage. And that can impact what it's worth later, depending on your plans.
 
If there is a perfect vehicle to think that way it's a landcruiser.. mine is still drum-tight with 200k on it.

It's just that to so many other people, who make up "the used car market", 170k is double what they think of as high mileage. And that can impact what it's worth later, depending on your plans.
There's a 2017 that was just listed on autotrader with 360k miles, probably the highest mileage 2017 I have seen. That's a testament at least!
 
Yes, interested to know what you do. If you end up pulling the trigger maybe it could sway me to start re-considering trucks with that mileage and save myself $10k. I bought my 100 with 250k miles and it never skipped a beat (until it hit a tree 3 weeks ago), and even then it was still a running/driving truck.
Is the low 40s price lining up with that you’re seeing as far as saving 10k based on high mileage? I’m seeing mid 50s everywhere for 120k and below post facelift 200s.
 
Last edited:
While in the end this is all very personal, when i wanted to buy a LC200 in 2020 I looked at:
- Model years 2013 and newer

Money Wise I considered:
- 250k minus actual milage divided by purchase price. You could use 300 or 350k or even more as well.
- Then applied the max money I wanted to pay (in my case could effort new as i had enough cash) and ended up with a new 5 miles Pearl White/Black Leather at $80.5k before tax.

Now the last point is not very good way to look at things obviously, as you can invest that money at say 5% year on year. So I spoiled myself with a new one, then again I want to keep it to at least 250k and know its full history. Should keep its value as one owner pretty good as well.

In case of cash + loan you can calculate this as well, I prefer to use excel.

Condition:
Since now all 200's are second hand checking them out will be most important:
- Wear on headlights and windshield (assuming still has the original toyota) can be indicators of use or higher mileage then advertised (this is unlikely states side)
Otherwise check a bunch:
- Maintenance history and number of previous owners (preferable one)
- General rust condition
- Carpet wet at footwells or not
- Cold start and any noise from valves or timing chain
- Signs of water pump or valley coolant leaks (signs at gearbox for the later)
- KDSS screws rusted or not (i have sprayed mined with rustproofer and put marine grease on top...)
- Check Hi/Lo range and transfer case locking
- How it drives straight without pull, symmetric wear on tires
- Brakes straight or with pull (hands lose from steering wheel)
Etc.

You could scan this forum and find a few more things like the cowl rubber seal condition and leak into the recirc box, signs of radiator leak on pre 2018 etc.

Good luck!
 
Last edited:
While in the end this is all very personal, when i want to buy a LC200 in 2020 I looked at:
- Model years 2013 and newer

Money Wise I considered:
- Calculated 250k minus actual milage / purchase price. You could use 300 or 350k or even more as well.
- Then applied the max money I wanted to pay (in my case could effort new as i had enough cash) and ended up with a new 5 miles Pearl White/Black Leather at $80.5k before tax.

Now the last point is not very good way to look at things obviously, as you can invest that money at say 5% year on year. So I spoiled myself with a new one, then again I want to keep it to at least 250k and know its full history. Should keep its value as one owner pretty good as well.

In case of cash + loan you can calculate this as well, I prefer to use excel.

Condition:
Since now all 200's are second hand checking them out will be most important:
- Wear on headlights and windshield (assuming still has the original toyota) can be indicators of use or higher mileage then advertised (this is unlikely states side)
Otherwise check a bunch:
- Maintenance history and number or previous owners (preferable one)
- General rust condition
- Carpet wet at footwells or not
- Cold start and any noise from valves or timing chain
- Signs of water pump or valley coolant leaks (signs at gearbox for the later)
- KDSS screws rusted or not (i have sprayed mined with rustproofer and put marine grease on top...)
- Check Hi/Lo range and transfer case locking
- How it drives straight without pull, symmetric wear on tires
- Brakes straight or with pull (hands lose from steering wheel)
Etc.

You could scan this forum and find a few more things like the cowl rubber seal condition and leak into the recirc box, signs of radiator leak on pre 2018 etc.

Good luck!
Appreciate you sharing your thought process and thorough analysis - I’ll be sure to take those all into consideration.
 
In most cases, I would spend the $10k and get the example with 50k less miles. To most, even if the vehicle is in excellent condition, 170k miles is still high mileage. Even if it runs and looks great, when you go to sell it, the pool of buyers will shrink significantly for already a niche vehicle. So something else to consider is how long you plan on owning it. The other aspect to consider is if you are mechanically inclined and do the work yourself, then maybe the high mileage example would work for your needs.
 
Per Supra, worth checking a bunch you notionally like (either max year or color combination or max mileage, whatever floats your boat) and think through what fits and how much you should pay. That said, the 16 Pearl White/Brown at 170k miles for a few thousand less may still be a good one to go for. Negotiate as the market has slowed down.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom