Maintenance recommendations on a low mileage 2014 (1 Viewer)

[gocougs]

I just purchased a 2014 with 42k miles, I'm going to start driving it a lot more than the last guy did. Any recommendations on services/maintenance I should do because of the age of the car and not the miles? It still has its original tires and brakes!










 

[stonepa]

Oil change, coolant change (7 years max on coolant), and brake fluid change. Other than that, drive the wheels off.

 

[HoffCruiser]

Great find!

 

[Zill]

Due to the age, I might even add changing the front and rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid, and transmission fluid might be a good idea as well.

P.S. that transfer case OEM fluid is some special black unicorn piss from Toyota that costs a metric ton per can. I would recommend bucking up and paying for it since the transfer case can be finicky due to actuator issues. Sticking with OEM on a long term basis would be your best bet to not have issues down the road (with the addition of every month, sticking the rig in 4 LO to make sure the actuator doesn’t get gummed up).

 

[Zill]

Also - Go Cougs!

That low mileage is a rare find indeed. Congrats!

 

[Sandroad]

Nice find. I assume you’ll get new tires. Those are 10 years old and IMHO need to be retired.

Same with all 3 wiper blades, if original.

 

[stonepa]

Due to the age, I might even add changing the front and rear diff fluid, transfer case fluid, and transmission fluid might be a good idea as well.

P.S. that transfer case OEM fluid is some special black unicorn piss from Toyota that costs a metric ton per can. I would recommend bucking up and paying for it since the transfer case can be finicky due to actuator issues. Sticking with OEM on a long term basis would be your best bet to not have issues down the road (with the addition of every month, sticking the rig in 4 LO to make sure the actuator doesn’t get gummed up).

Im not sure what makes the t-case fluid special. It only cost $80 to change it at my local Toyota dealer - the same as each of the front and rear differentials.

 

[Zill]

Im not sure what makes the t-case fluid special. It only cost $80 to change it at my local Toyota dealer - the same as each of the front and rear differentials.

Were they using the correct fluid? The OEM transfer case fluid is around $180-200 per can (which you’ll need two of).

 

[stonepa]

Were they using the correct fluid? The OEM transfer case fluid is around $180-200 per can (which you’ll need two of).

Yes. It requires 1.5l of Toyota 75W90 GL-5 gear oil. It is only $45/qt retail on Amazon and I am guessing the dealer gets a deal. So maybe $55 for the fluid at full retail.

 

[Zill]

Yes. It requires 1.5l of Toyota 75W90 GL-5 gear oil. It is only $45/qt retail on Amazon and I am guessing the dealer gets a deal. So maybe $55 for the fluid at full retail.

Oh wow, that has come way down in price. You’re right, it’s way cheaper now.

The high price when I did mine must have been because of a supply shortage or something.

 

[stonepa]

Oh wow, that has come way down in price. You’re right, it’s way cheaper now.

The high price when I did mine must have been because of a supply shortage or something.

Yep - those were indeed painful.

 

[bloc]

75w-90 GL5 is not the specified transfer case fluid for a 2013, or 14, to keep it on topic to the OP. But some dealers will still use it.

The special Toyota sauce for those is a straight 75w and definitely not GL5. And yes it is very expensive.

Nice find. I assume you’ll get new tires. Those are 10 years old and IMHO need to be retired.

Same with all 3 wiper blades, if original.

This! Old but plenty of tread tires are a major factor in some accidents. Like the one that killed Paul Walker actually..

 

[bloc]

And, @gocougs if the wiper blades are still in good shape you can put just the inserts into them really cheaply. Note that the dealer will not carry Genuine Toyota blades, even the ones with the Toyota sombrero are made by a third party and not original quality.

 

[stonepa]

Until atleast 2015, the 75w-90 will be just fine. After that model year I have zero knowledge. Based on what I was told by the dealer, the expensive stuff is thinner but with an added material to provide the same protection but also to reduce drag that impacts mileage. Given Land Cruisers were designed to be used in countries where they may be worked on in an open shack or under a tree, the cheaper and much more available should be just fine.

 

[bloc]

Until atleast 2015, the 75w-90 will be just fine. After that model year I have zero knowledge. Based on what I was told by the dealer, the expensive stuff is thinner but with an added material to provide the same protection but also to reduce drag that impacts mileage. Given Land Cruisers were designed to be used in countries where they may be worked on in an open shack or under a tree, the cheaper and much more available should be just fine.

Realistically, the dealer is probably the last place someone should seek advice about fluids.

We know transfer case part numbers changed around 2011 when Toyota started specifying the new fluid, we know it has some unique physical properties compared to other gear fluids (color, smell (indicating different additives)). But we don’t know what exactly changed within the case that led Toyota to spec the new stuff.

One very plausible explanation is 75w-90 generally being GL5 which is known to attack yellow metals which are often used in synchros.. which it seems our transfer case has.

IMO telling anyone “it’s fine” to run a non-spec fluid should have that information and the rest of the story so they can make an informed decision. Even the expensive stuff is a negligible cost per mile at the recommended change interval, to avoid any risk associated with the fluids. Plus there are cheaper aftermarket options that are designed to meet Toyota 75w LF requirements..

Good example post for OP from a thread dedicated to the topic (then we can get back to the rest of the maintenance)

$80/liter transfer case oil

The Russian to English web translator is entertaining. Russian BITOG equivalent!!! Good to know the b*tching and complaining is worldwide with respect to opinions, experiences, etc.

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[stonepa]

Realistically, the dealer is probably the last place someone should seek advice about fluids.

We know transfer case part numbers changed around 2011 when Toyota started specifying the new fluid, we know it has some unique physical properties compared to other gear fluids (color, smell (indicating different additives)). But we don’t know what exactly changed within the case that led Toyota to spec the new stuff.

One very plausible explanation is 75w-90 generally being GL5 which is known to attack yellow metals which are often used in synchros.. which it seems our transfer case has.

IMO telling anyone “it’s fine” to run a non-spec fluid should have that information and the rest of the story so they can make an informed decision. Even the expensive stuff is a negligible cost per mile at the recommended change interval, to avoid any risk associated with the fluids.

Ok. Guess we’ll see what happens. Last time I followed dealer recommendations on fluid type I got to 450k (and counting) with my 100. I think the primary plus is changing the fluid regularly.

 

[bloc]

I think the primary plus is changing the fluid regularly.

Totally agree

 

[PhillipPinot]

I have a 2013 with 120k miles and got a new radiator due to a leak. I also recently changed all the fluids, including power steering, brake, transmission, transfer case, oil (of course). I currently have a small oil leak that Toyota is trying to pinpoint with the UV dye. Hopefully it’s nothing big.

Other than that, everything is good!

 

[doru]

I would not bother with anything special than doing the regular maintenance for the miles you have. That means there are no fluid changes (except engine oil) until 60k. See Toyota recommended schedule.

Wiper's rubber is a regular maintenance item for me, once a year. If you are happy with the spider system Toyota is using you can just get rubber inserts for $6 or so each. I drunk the cool aid from this forum about them and been very disappointed. I'm going back to spring blade style (e.g. Valeo) blades that are FAR superior. Yes, they are $20 per blade but for me in PNW good visibility is worth the money.

 

[Zill]

I would not bother with anything special than doing the regular maintenance for the miles you have. That means there are no fluid changes (except engine oil) until 60k. See Toyota recommended schedule.

Wiper's rubber is a regular maintenance item for me, once a year. If you are happy with the spider system Toyota is using you can just get rubber inserts for $6 or so each. I drunk the cool aid from this forum about them and been very disappointed. I'm going back to spring blade style (e.g. Valeo) blades that are FAR superior. Yes, they are $20 per blade but for me in PNW good visibility is worth the money.

The OEM Japan made wipers (which you’ll have to order from Toyota) are by far the best wiper blades you can buy.

Are you sure you didn’t buy the ones they sell at the dealer? (Which are not the OEM style wiper blades)